Will Aluminium Clincher Wheels For Rim Brakes Go Extinct? | GCN Tech Clinic

Will Aluminium Clincher Wheels For Rim Brakes Go Extinct? | GCN Tech Clinic

(various sound affects) – Welcome back to another
episode of the GCN tech clinic, where I try and solve your
bike related problems. So if you’ve got one, make sure you leave it for me down there in the comments section below and I will do my very
best to try and solve it in a forthcoming episode. And well, with no further ado, let’s crack on with
the first one this week and it comes in from Tom Holden who says, “Hi GCN, do you think higher
end aluminum clinchers for rim brakes will be extinct?” Well go extinct. Yeah I reckon it will at
some point or another. The reason being I guess exotic
materials like carbon fiber, their price will continue
to plummet and it means that they will ultimately
replace aluminum wheels I guess, as will technologies
in braking performance. So better braking
compounds from brake pads and ultimately I guess the disk brake will ultimately lead to
the death of the rim brake. After all, it happened on cars. I know they weren’t with rim brakes but they had drum brakes and had their disk brakes. And well, most cars
come tend to come fitted with those these days, especially on the front. So yeah, one day it will become extinct but right now, I don’t see it at least for about another 10 or 15 years. (swipe sound affect)
Next up is Wayne Filer and Wayne says, “Hi Jon. I put on cyclocross
tires onto my hybrid bike to use as a commuter and
needed the extra grip. There’s less that a
millimeter of clearance and sometimes they rub
underneath the brake caliper. Is there anything I can do to help give me a little bit more space and stop the rubbing?” Right, personally I would go for something with a smaller knob on the
actual tread of the tire. The reason being, like you say, it’s less than a millimeter of clearance. Now that is really, really close. A few extra pumps in the tire and it’s probably going to rub. Either that or if you get a little bit of something or other caught
inside of the tread pattern that can start rubbing
underneath the underside of that brake caliper
and actually damage it. And ultimately, it could
be quite dangerous I guess, if something even bigger than
that could catch in there and throw you over the bars or anything. I don’t want to be a scaremonger but I’m just thinking about
the worst possible situation ’cause I don’t want
you really to use this. I would go for a different tire, try and get something
a litter lower profile which will try and clear
that nice and easily. Now something which we used
to do on grass track bikes which aren’t actually a thing but in Britain we have grass track racing. So it’s like racing on a velodrome but it’s outdoors on grass and you fit cyclocross tires
or tubeless into a track bike. Now track bikes, as many of you all know, don’t have particularity big clearances. Especially on the front of them, on the back you can generally
play around a little bit because you can adjust
your chain line and stuff so you can get it further
away from the seat tube. But the front wheel was always a problem. So imagine that this here, this is your axle of your front wheel and this is the dropout of
your fork just going over it and of course, the axle is
going to sit really close into that dropout but what we used to do, was just in between them
put a ball bearing in there and it would just push it
away slightly from the crown of the fork just to give you a little bit of extra clearance. Not the safest thing in the world to do. I never had any problems with it and it was a bit of a pain
in the backside to fit. But that could possibly be an option but I wouldn’t really advise it but it’s just a little
bit of a tale there, what I used to do in the past. But really just try and get
yourself a lower profile tire. (swipe sound affect)
Right now we’ve got Mr Eric five, four, five, two who says, “Hi Jon, what type of
cable do I think is best, a normal stainless steel one
or Teflon coated brake cable?” Right Eric, I would say
personally a Teflon coated one. That way you’re going to
get nice, smooth braking. There’s nothing worse than
a you know slightly stiff or a little bit jittery almost when you try and pull the cable ’cause it can get caught
just very slightly on the inner coil of outer cables. On the inside of the outer cable, you got this coil and if
they’re not lined with a liner, cables can get a little bit
trapped and sticky in there. So I’d go for Teflon cables personally. And also all cables are
not created equally, so a more expensive cable
generally, as a rule of thumb, will be better performing
than the cheaper cable or obviously that’s not always the case but normally there’s a
little bit more research and development gone into ’em
hence the extra added cost. Personally, the cables I’ve found for complicated braking routes are something like Jagwires linkage system or Aligator Ilink or Knock On that was the first brand,
I think we did that. So it was a series of small little parts of an outer cable which you join together and they were highly flexible. Other than that the Shimano
Dura Ace brake cables I found to be really, really good too. So yeah, personally, go for
those Teflon coated ones. (swipe sound affect)
Next up is Muhummad Patel who has got another cable question. This one is, ” Is there a way to stretch
new brake and shift cables before fitting them? I notice that they stretch a bit within the first two to three weeks of replacing the old ones and I have to constantly
make minor adjustments. Thanks and regards from South Africa.” Right then Muhummad,
there’s no real easy way to try and stretch those
cables like we say. Generally, the cables themselves
aren’t actually stretching. What’s happening is that the
ferrules you put on the end of the outer cables, they
tend to push themselves into position when we pull
hard on the brake cables. So generally, when we
fit our brake cables, we put them in and then
we give a few sharp tugs on the brake levers themselves
just to try and set all of those cables into the ferrules and then the ferrules into the
components where necessary. And that takes up a little bit of slack and then we readjust the inner cable, pull it through a little
bit and then it tightens. They don’t really stretch because, well, they’re pretty tightly bound
anyway those bounding cables. You mentioned also in there
about shift cables too. I wouldn’t go shifting really hard or anything like that to
try to get them to stretch or trying to get any
ferrules to sit further onto the actual outer cables or anything. The reason being, the
ratchets inside of gear levers are a little bit fragile
whereas inside of a brake lever, well, they’re quite rudimentary really. It’s quite a simple bit of care. But those gear levers, you
want to make sure you don’t go overstressing them. So just simply go out on the bike, you know and you will have to adjust that barrel adjuster just slightly. Just while those ferrules and outer cables just
find themselves sitting into those components nicely. (swipe sound affect)
All right next up, we’ve got Rinksdinks who says, “Great work with the show Jon.” Thank you. “I currently have a Dura Ace
R9100 53/39 chain ring setup and sometimes I feel myself
spinning out on 53/11. So will a Dura Ace R9100 55T…” 55 tooth obviously. “… outer chain ring fit on
my current Dura Ace cranks so I end up with a 55/39 setup?” Yeah, those will work absolutely fine. Their gear shifting at the front there may be a little bit slower
than your previous one. The reason being, obviously
you’ve got a bigger gap to actually contend with. But it will work fine. I’ve used a 54/39 before
and it’s been fine. You’ve got enough room on the
actual front derailleur mount to be able to position
a 55 no problem there. What you need to consider though really, is are you really actually
spinning out in 53/11. Because those chain rings, they’re not the cheapest of things and well, 53/11 if you had a cadence of 100 revolutions per minute, well you’d be going an
excessive 60 kilometers an hour which I guess is over 40 miles an hour at 45 miles an hour. Roughly, something like that. So is the extra expense really worth it and how often do you
really spin out on it? ‘Cause when I think spinning out, I think 140 rpm plus. But yeah it will work absolutely fine but just bear that in mind before you go splashing out on
that bigger chain ring. (swipe sound affect)
Next up, we’ve got Luis Sordi who says, “Hey Jon I want to change from a 50/34 to a 52/36 chain ring configuration. Will I have to put a new chain on or just reset the derailleurs
screws and such like.” Right, all depends really on how short or how long your current chain is. What I would do is go out and buy yourself a new chain anyway because you’re going to
need it at some point. But first up, fit on that
chain set and then see. So if the chain is too short, the reason or the way you’ll
be able to detect this. Put it on to the big chain ring and the biggest sprocket in the rear. I know we shouldn’t be
in that gear necessarily. And see if that rear derailleur
is really extended forward. If it’s so tight and you know, it’s difficult to change back
down onto a smaller chain ring or a smaller sprocket at the rear, then yeah you do need
to use a longer chain. But generally, well we don’t tend to actually break or join our chains
that are that short. They tend to have a little
bit of slack in them. So it should be absolutely fine. And of course, if it is too
short well you can just go ahead and put on that new chain
that you’ve already bought. (swipe sound affect)
Next up is Liam Bergin who says, “Hi Jon, I’ve got a question
regarding using a wall mount because I’ve got limited
living space for my bike. I’ve got standard quick release wheels. Is it bad long term for them and also for the quick
releases themselves? I always do the normal
checks before riding. Cheers.” Right, it’s good that you
always do those checks before you ride because loads
of people out there don’t. They just put their
bike back, go out on it and then discover a problem
somewhere along the line. But yeah it’s absolutely fine to store your bike up there like that. Unless of course you are suspending it from the spokes themselves. So make sure that the little
hook or whatever fixing it is, isn’t actually resting on a spoke. Because you could well
bend that therefor leading to early fatigue of it or something. And also if your bike
was really, really heavy I guess it could play
a bit of a part in it but no one I know I think
has got a bike that heavy, or have they? Also some people reckon that
if they keep bikes stored, you know, vertically on a wall that the hydraulic brake
fluid has problems. So it like all rises up or sinks down, they get bad performing
brakes or anything. Brake systems are sealed, so don’t really know how that happens. I guess it could happen
on some systems out there but I think they’re very
few and far between. But ultimately, you are going to
be absolutely fine to do that. And I know what it’s like to have not enough living
room for your bikes. (swipe sound affect)
Next up is Tristan who says, “Jon, my bike keeps making
a weird clicking noise when I’m out of the saddle. The noise is definitely
coming from the front and seems to be with the
rhythm of swinging the bike from side to side.” Oh yeah that old chestnut,
the old clicking bike. Right, firstly, make sure
that all of the bolts on the stand and handle
bars, brake levers, where they attach on to
the bars are all done up to the correct torque and
using either anti-seize, grease also sometimes you have
to use carbon paste in between the stem and the bars, if you’ve got carbon
bars, something like that, to try and stop them
creaking a little bit. Any fraction of movement. Something which loads of
people get played with is this creaking noise
from the front wheel. And what it can be is the
actual inside of the dropper, so you’re looking at
the fork, from side on. So you’re looking at your bike side on, like in the bike vault. And there it is, there’s the fork dropout, where the axle’s going to go. Get yourself my favorite ingredient, you know what it is, by now, the camera man, he knows what it is. It’s a dab of grease. So get yourself a dab or grease, rub it around the inside of that dropout, get it nicely covered, not too much, don’t get crazy with it. No one likes to go crazy with grease. But just put a dab of
grease in there, both sides. And refit the front wheel, do
up the quick release skewer to a decent torque, have
a little play around. Dance up those mountains, pretending that you’re Chris Froome or whoever you want to be on the ride and see if that clicking
or creaking goes away. (swipe sound affect)
Penultimate question this week comes in from Samuel Petrina who says, “I have an old Nashiki bike with a 10 speed ultegra group set. No matter what I do to
the B tension screw, I can’t get the jockey wheel
close enough to the cassette for good shifting.” Right, so a B tension screw on a rear derailleur basically controls how close the upper pulley
wheel can get to the cassette. Because that allows for more
precise shifting, if you like. But not all rear derailleurs
have them anymore. But this one does obviously
as you can see here. There is one there. This one is a mountain
bike rear derailleur. I’ve just borrowed from the GMBN guys, hopefully they don’t mind. But what reckon your problems here are is you will have inside of that 10 speed old Tegrim rear mech, there’s a spring inside of the
actual derailleur hanger bolt so that was this one
here, this one up there. And then, you can see here
that there’s another bolt which goes in through there. It’s just up by the upper pulley wheel. So what happens is they
get absolutely full of gunk over the years and they need to be well
essentially dissembled, cleaned up and then the springs have to go in the same positions or you can put them in
a different position for a little bit of extra
spring power if you like for really snappy gear shifts. I would just put them back
where the manufacturers says. It’s not that simple to go through. You do need to pay close attention to the disassembly of it to
make sure you pout them back in the right places and
also the right way ’round. The spring does look quite
similar but they’re not. Some of them have longer tabs than others. But in essence, I would head over actually to the Park Tool website where they’ve got a
really comprehensive guide on how to take apart a rear
derailleur for overhaul. Maybe I should do that
actually in the future. So you can actually you
know, get to grips with them. Because it’s a problem out there which loads of people do tend to have with an older rear derailleur. And what happens is, they just
stay stuck in one place so, the rear derailleur arm, it
doesn’t really move at all. It just stays like that like
cage and it just moves across like so when you change gear rather than really accommodating
the slack in the chain. So you have a look on that website and you should be
absolutely fine to go ahead and give your rear mech an overhaul. (swipe sound affect)
And the final question comes in from Christopher Santos who says, “Hi Jon, as a beginner cyclist, should I totally slam my stem to the point that there are no places
for spacers to be used or should I put one spacer in? Many thanks.” Christopher, get on that bike so you are comfortable, my friend. As a beginner, you want
to be really comfortable because you want to be riding that bike. If you’re uncomfortable, you’re
not going to want to ride it. Let’s face it. So best thing to do,
either join a local club, go and see a local bike
fitter, someone like that who can get you on that
bike ever so comfortable. As you become more experienced
although it’s more difficult, as we get old really, because
we’re not quite as flexible, you can get into that
more aggressive position maybe have your stem slammed
but don’t go ahead and do it just because you think it looks cool or someone else has told you to do it or you see the pros doing it. That doesn’t work for everybody out there. So like I say, go along, try and find someone who can help you with your position first and foremost. And yeah it does look good, I’ve got to admit having a slammed stem but you just need to be comfortable. A few years back, I had an injury and I actually had to raise my bars two centimeters higher than what they previously were. Before, it was always slammed because I’ve been riding
and racing my bike for years and years. Went up two centimeters,
as my injury went, I could just gradually drop it back down to that lowest position again. But don’t go ahead and do it just because you think it looks good or someone’s told you to do it. (swipe sound affect)
There we are, another GCN tech clinic done and dusted. But if you’ve got a problem, leave it for me down there
in the comments section below and I’ll do my very
best to help answer it. Alternatively, leave it on
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Only registered users can comment.

  1. Wayne should consider a 650B conversion. Tektro R559 brakes and a set of wheels will allow you to get at least 32mm if not 38mm tires in there.

  2. Question that's been in the corner of my mind a while – I've got some wheels with brass spoke nipples. Corrosion resistant right? But they've got some green patina on them. What's the verdict on the safety of this situation?

  3. I bought a pair of 28mm tires which on my rims measured up at 31mm giving about 1mm clearance. That was mostly ok, except when some road debris would catch between the brake callipers and bring me to a stop. They were nice on smooth, clean roads, but they were too much trouble. Went back to 25mm and I'm much happier.

  4. I don't see why aluminum rims will disappear. I have a set of wheels built around Sprint 350 clinchers that weigh about 1350g without the cassette. That's light, even for tubulars. And at 190lbs I feel way safer on them (even though they are a bit prone to come out of true). I hope aluminum rims stick around.

  5. With regard to the "cable stretch" subject, I've always assumed another part of it is the cables bedding into the inner cable housing plastic. Each shift or brake pull makes the cable act like a little saw on any bend of the inside of the cable housing. It takes a bit longer for that to happen, so adjustments will always need to be made until the cable housing inner plastic is worn out completely. Or I may just be imagining this issue…

  6. I'd like to see a decent video about carbon rim brakes in the wet. Surprisingly very little video on youtube showing how it compares to aluminium rims.

  7. I was recently debating the Rolf Elan (aluminum) vs. Hunt Wide Aero 3650 (carbon) wheelset. The Rolfs would give better brake cooling and would save about 100g. I chose the Hunts for better aero, having read that newer carbon rims are much better than the early rims for braking on steep descents. So far, so good! With 25C tubeless, I’ve been setting PBs (into a moderate headwind!) over my old, worn out Dura Ace C24s with 23C and tubes. The new setup with tires and skewers is within 20g of the old setup. Lightweight, low rolling resistance, and aero – win, win, win!

  8. With all the grass track bike racing in the UK you would think trackelcross would be big deal there any thoughts as to why it isn't

  9. #GCNTech On the topic of too big tires for your frame, i've had some luck using a thin strip of sheet metal (aluminum or tin can) to shim up the axle of my wheels in my dropouts a couple of millimeters to get better tire clearance.

    I'm sure if you do it VERY carefully, it could be totally fine. But I found it was really hard to get both sides of the axle shimmed up the same length, which can make your wheel spin crooked in the frame, mess with your braking, possible ware your tires out weirdly or lead to a premature blow out. Maybe bend your frame if you catch a serious bump. For me, it worked okay for me as a temporary solution riding exclusively on the road.

    Maybe something like a precision machined half moon clip for your dropouts might do the trick. Does anyone make those?

  10. Nooo! Rim brakes and alloy clinchers work perfectly well and still have some benefits over discs which will keep them around…but then manufacturers want new stuff to brain wash us with so hopefully we don't all fall for the marketing…

  11. The bike industry is digging their own grave if they do eliminate rim brake wheels and rim brakes. The new tech is just that right now, go to a bike shop and you're still going to find bikes for sale that are rim brake. When it gets difficult to find rim brake stuff look towards Italy, I'm sure they will still be on the rim brake band wagon.

  12. Rim brakes clinchers will never die. I have disc brakes on all my bikes except my new road bike but, I can say that my next gravel/cx bike will be rim brakes too, something similar to a Ritchey Swiss Cross canti. I've been using disc brakes since 1998 and might be counter trend going back old school but, I'm just sick and tired of fiddling with hydraulics.

  13. Hi Jon pass this on to Tristan Geake or cover it in another vid 👍🏻
    I had this problem and i was convinced it was the lower headset bearing. Actually just turned out to be my back wheel flexing and rubbing the break pads.
    Back off the brake and try that then if it works then maybe run the pads further from the back wheel or increase spoke tension

  14. Geezer gcn must be in bed with bike company's trying to sell you something supposedly 10% better , end of alloy rims, end of rim brakes , end of tubulars, end of mechanical shifting , how about showing some of those great items out there , rim brakes alloy wheels tubulars etc etc

  15. Low spoke count carbon wheels are very hard to build, but if you crunch a 32 hole aluminum rim, you can replace it in 45 minutes, cheaply.

  16. I see rim brake carbon clinchers becoming extinct first before Al rim clinchers. Al rim brake clinchers don't suffer from very poor wet weather performance or rims over heating during braking. Disc brakes are an antidote to those problems with carbon rim brake clinchers, Al clinchers are another solution.

  17. Yea, about that clicking noise. I got one too recently on my new bike, I too first thought it was the wheels or something up front. Changed the wheel for another one, but it was still there and only audible when I was putting force through the pedals, so I got suspicious. I got the bike on the trainer and asked a friend to listen closely where the noise is coming from – it turned out it was the bottom bracket. LBS lubed and refitted it properly and no clicking noises anymore, I guess the factory assembly wasn't good.

  18. For Wayne – there are still some narrower CX tires available. I ride a winter fixie on the snow and can only fit 30's. I think what Michelin has some narrower ones.

  19. I am having trouble finding round 26.0 mm diameter NOS handlebars without the cable indents for the non aero Shimano Ultegra brake levers and Cinelli XA stem. I want to add stitched leaver coverings. Are there any 7075 Aluminium bars out there. I have seen some late 80s NOS Modolo bars but these were very expensive.

  20. Sensible consumers still wants rim brakes, because we will not be pushed around by greedy bike makers !
    Yes disc brakes brakes better and the center of pivot is lower.
    But they are a lot more complicated, they are overprized, they make bike frames more expensive, aero and weight will always be on the positive side of the rim brake, if both systems are optimized.
    Every body can maintain a rimbrake. If you can laze your shoes and zip your coat, you can do it !

    But manufacturers want to milk us for money by forcing the disc brake on us. Its a question of maximizing profits.
    If I was selling bike's, as a manufacturer or a bike shop, I would also stop producing rim brake versions and equipment and only sell disc versions.
    Give me your money !!!

  21. Oh, to all brake ignorants: Drum brakes on cars are absolutely not dead. Many cars have drum brakes at the rear. Disc brakes needs frequent use and proper braking to work properly, and on many cars and in the hands of many drivers, discbrakes at the rear are not being used enough. Something the drum brakes can handle !

  22. not a question, just a note about the gear & brake cables stretching, it's not just cyclists that struggle with this. Guitar players also face the same situation when they install brand new strings, and so for the first few hours or so, the guitar tends to go out of tune because the new strings are still finding their places in the tuning pegs, bridge & nut, and the player needs to retune the guitar a few times. A trick that's used there is to pull the cables after installing them to force the stretching. Unfortunately that's not something cyclists can do… 🙂

  23. Question to Jon, I've recently changed the chain on my commuter bike which has a 10spd triple shimano groupset. The chain I installed has 114 links + 1 quick link. I installed the chain without breaking any links, but I found out the chain is still not long enough and the rear derailleur in some gear combinations (mid cassette) is more stretched than I would like. The chain is brand new so I would like to use it. What do you suggest? use it but be careful? extend it by using parts of the old chain? anything else? thank you!

  24. My rear mech shifts fine at the ends my cassette. High end is good and the low end is good but it doesn't shift well in the middle of the range. Would this be caused by the hanger being bent or because the Cassette is worn?

    Thanks for the help.

  25. Not to worry. If they go extinct we'll bring them back; Like the dinosaurs in Jurassic Park 🦖🦕

  26. If there is a market for ally clinchers and rim brakes, they will still be around.
    And even though carbon is coming down in price, it will never be as cheap as ally because they are labour intensive to make.

  27. No. It does not. Even rim brakes are here to stay for our lifetime, since the bicycles that use them will be with us for decades to come, and will need replacements for the old worn out parts. Alloy wheels are going nowhere, since they're cheap, and cheap bikes will need cheap wheels to roll on. They may however, be replaced by that new magnesium alloy (the one that doesn't burn) that I heard about at one of the shows you covered, and haven't heard about since…

  28. Well, it’s been a year in the making, but I’ve finally decided to buy my first road bike. I blame all of you!

  29. No they wont. There will always be cheap bikes with cheap wheels. We may lose really nice ones but disc brakes will have to completely take over.

  30. #askgcntech i use hydraulic disc brakes and my disc is perfectly centered, but whenever i stand on my pedals and move my bike under me the disc makes 'tching' noises. Do you know what i can do to stop this from happening?

  31. Hi Jon. Thanks for the help with my seatpost. Sadly it wouldn't move even after a full can of WD40. I've decided to leave it now. But the Toffee hammer idea was good. I need to get out on my bike to burn off all the toffee that came with the hammer. #askGCNtech

  32. I got three high end rim brake bikes and I wanted to know if I should better stock up on some high end aluminium wheels so I won't have to ride those high end bikes on entry level alu clinchers in two years time. All I do is climbing and obivoulsy descending, so carbon clinchers aren't the best choice due to the danger of overheating even though I'm 70kg and never drag my brakes. But we all know those grandfathers, scared sissies or busses in front of us who force us to brake more than we would ever need to when descending.

  33. #AskGCNTech Hi Jon. Thanks for the great videos so far. My commute bike has a Shimano 105 group set. Recently I keep noticing a rattling noise when pedalling which seems to come from the lower pulley wheel – much different from when I bought it last August. I did try a number of attempts to adjusting the shifting and even replaced the chain with no success. Although shifting works fine, I am a fan of well working / noiseless gears and would like to fix the noise. Any ideas? Thanks, Michael

  34. On the subject of high-end aluminium rims; they will cease to exist if manufacturers stop making them. It doesn’t matter how much you like them if you can’t buy them 🤷‍♂️

  35. Love the vid as usual! Hmmmm, Rim brakes,

    Rim Brakes tend to be lighter than disc brakes.

    Rim brakes are easier to maintain than disc brakes.

    Rim brakes are easier to adjust than disc brakes.

    Rim brakes Cost less than disc brakes.

    Rim brakes are easier to make more aero dynamic than disc brakes without having to redesign frame and forks.

    Rim brakes are more environmentally friendly than disc brakes typically due to the brake fluid being used.

    And I'll give you a guess which brakes are never affected by hanging a bike up on a bike stand for storage. Yep.

    Hopefully, before manufacturers decide to throw out rim brakes entirely they might , well maybe, pump their brakes!

  36. Hi #AskGCNTech – Just thought I'd ask here after hearing Samuel's question. I have a '95 Kona Explosif (sorry it's an MTB) with a newer XT rear derailleur (Shimano Deore XT RD-M771-SGS I believe). When I adjust the b tension screw, nothing happens with the height of the derailleur. Like it's not attached. Any idea what the problem is? Thanks for the great videos /Jess

  37. #askgcntech
    Hi John, I have TRP HY/RD brakes on my bike which I really like but in the cold (when the road is covered in snow and ice, like -5 degrees or below) my brakes become stiff and the leavers don't fully go back as they should after braking. I keep my bike inside and this happens when I go up a mountain in winter. Is it the grease in the leavers that hardens or the oil in the brakes?
    Thanks for the help.

  38. #askGCNTech. Jon, I've learned a lot from your show. Maybe you can advise me on this. I have two nice bikes. (Not quite bell worthy to be honest, but I digress). One has the new Conti GP5000 tires in 28 mm and they measure 28.8 mm on the clincher wheel with tubes. The other has Conti 4000 GPS tires in nominally 25 mm but they actually measure 28.4 mm on those wheels, which seems to be true for those tires on almost any wheel. The carbon rims on my bikes have similar shape and inner diameters. Does this mean I should be running the "25s" at the same pressure as the 28s, or should the 25 mm ones still be a bit higher? I like a smooth ride and I hate pinch flats. Please advise.

  39. #AskGCNTech I always get a loud clunk in my commuter bike whenever I start pedaling again after coasting. The heavier the gear, the louder the clunk. The clunk feels like something is skipping and I feel it under my feet. What's weird is it happens very-very random but always after coasting. It happens random enough that it doesn't really bother me much when I ride. It's a built bike and most parts are new except for the hub (Shimano) and the rear mech (Shimano). I tried removing the free hub body before and cleaning and lubing the small bearings inside but the clunk is still there. The hub has new bearings as well. Again, it happens random enough to not bother me during the ride but I'm dying to know what is causing it. I hope you can help me sort it out.

    Love the show! Keep up the great work, guys! Thank you!

  40. Nope. Loving my Shimano DuraAce C35 rim brake clinchers. 33,000+ miles and counting. Still running straight and true. Those hoops will outlive me.

  41. #askgcntech #askgcn how durable are carbon rims? I’ve ridden into a few pot holes and getting a bit worried. Am I at risk of splitting my rim mid-ride?? 😟😟

  42. Why are road hydro disk brakes so much more expense than mtb hydro disk brakes? The price parity is not even close. An entry level MTB with hydro disk brakes can be had for less than $700 Cad. It can't just be the UCI's luke warm enthusiasm. What about the manufacturers price manipulation? Is it high profit margins over fast adoption.

  43. I have some of the GCN stickers that were supplied with a fan kit purchase. Will they hold up to the elements, sweat etc or should I cover them with transparent frame tape? I need to cover a slight scratch on the top tube of my Cannondale Caad 12. Love the show by the way, I haven’t missed a single episode.#AskGCNTech

  44. If aluminium wheels and rim brakes go extinct (and they won't) then carbon will also no longer exist because 3D printing of metal including titanium is the future.

  45. I don't think 100% or even 95% that aluminum wheelset will be replaced.If carbon wheelset vs aluminum will just be U$50 price difference, even with that aluminum will still survive. In some parts of the world U450 is a lot of money. Even U$20 is significant to some. And if we are talking of entry level bikes, every little counts.

    What is most certain is we will be moving to disc brakes in the future. Again, not 100% but significantly so that rim brakes will be the exception. It's not like any different with today's MTB.You'd find it hard to find good rim brakes, much less the older cantilever brakes. In other words, disc brakes will be the dominant format. With carbon vs aluminum rims, it will prbably be a 50-50 or 60-40 aluminum vs carbon. Maybe even 70-30. It all depends on how low carbon rims can go and if the difference in price is small. Right now, it is still easier to build aluminum rims. But in time, with robots or automation, maybe carbon rims will be as easy to make as well. but that is a long ways off. I am thinking 10-20 years into the future.

    Basically, the change will have to coincide with disc brakes. But it will take a bit longer of time if you ask me. And it's not as if aluminum does not have its own advantages.

  46. 5 month ago I have the chance to buy carbon rims or aluminum HED Ardennes CL (I weight 220lbs big bone😎). No carbon wheels does 24-28 spokes. The Ardennes won. I'm as proud of my aluminum as anybody with carbon rims.

  47. As to the brake cables, go for those that are mandrel-drawn so they are smooth even before coating. QBP cables were great, and Campy were awful on that count. I think the Jagwire Elite inside their segmented housing are pretty great.

  48. Do not put a single ball bearing in your front drop out. Concentrating stress by means of a point force on the metal of the dropout could alter its microscopic structure and possible fatigue failure with catastrophic consequences. I insert a small wedge of rim tape over the axle to increase the clearance; this has the same effect but spreads the load across the surface of the dropout.

  49. 60K an hour is 37mph. 73ish K would be 45 mpg. Certainly possible to go over 60K if he's in a hilly area with a lot of descents, or if he's racing.

  50. Hi Jon. Thoughts on changing the left crank for one with a power meter.
    Ultegra R6800 left crank with a Ultegra R8000 chainset? Or even 105 R5800 crank with Ultegra R8000 chainset? Thanks! #AskGCNTech

  51. What happened to ceramic coated rims? Honestly they do have super nice bite and I do dare to say that my old crossmax wheels(MTB) works pretty much as good as disc brakes.

  52. Discs are getting better and certainly are superior in gravel/CX conditions but the rim brake has it's place. Will it go – eventually yes but the move to discs and the shop displays are being driven by the bike brands who want you to think only discs are available. Campag/Shimano/SRAM etc are still manufacturing rim brakes every day

  53. #AskGCNTech Hi , My left clipless pedal has a squeak every time I push down of the pedals and I find that very annoying. I have tried lubricating the cleats and the pedals but it still has the sound. Btw my pedals are Look Keo Blade 2. Thanks!

  54. Hi Jon, I have two questions. I have a btwin triban 3, and have upgraded it with some parts that I bought off a friend's bike, the problem I'm having is that the new tiagra brakes don't line up correctly on the rim to allow the pad to hit the rim correctly; I've tried all the different positions of adjustment and can't get it to like up correctly like it does with the original btwin branded brakes.
    My second question is: where is the best place to get a vintage road bike from for a reasonable price, so I can go riding with my dad on his old Carlton and not leave him behind.
    Thanks in advanced. #askGCNtech

  55. Even an aluminium rim disc brake wheel will always be cheaper than one with a carbon rim. That's because an aluminium rim can completely be made by machines while carbon manufacturing will always involve a fair amount of human labour. And that's why aluminium rim wheelsets will never go extinct.

  56. regarding wall mounting bikes: I use daHanger . you get one hook that the pedal slips into and two wall mounted angle iron plates to protect the wall. you can stack 3 bikes on an 8 foot wall, but i spread mine out and they hang on my walls like beautiful paintings.
    look them up. well worth the coin. no i am not an employee of that company, just a guy with no room for all his bikes

  57. #AskGCNTech

    Hello Jon.
    Thanks for reading my request for advice. I recently bought and installed a new cassette and chain and the results are stellar, as expected. Even the ticking noise went away, but after a week, that pinging sound is back. it's definitely the rear wheel. i swapped it out and the issue went away.

    the freehub body is chewed up, could that be the source, or do you suspect an spoke issue? i am running easton carbon tubbies, deep rims.i can true a normal wheel but not these. i just don't want to waste funds unnecessarily. I'm a cheap old so and so…

    Thanks for all you do! Jim English

  58. I don't think so……..but after 6 months using disk brake…I will never go back to the rim brake…

  59. question for GCN tech clinic and GCN does science :

    we have by now high temperatures in France, my derailleurs have been setup during spring but they seems to have moved.

    how much temperature does affect the setting ?

  60. I like that ball-bearing trick to get fork clearance, Jon. And does anyone make some sort of washer with a tab in the shape of a cam lobe? Seems like that would officially do the trick. And as much as I am coming 'round to discs and carbon rims, I don't want or think alloy rims will ever go away–they are perfect for so many applications and a relatively small percentage of bikes, at the end of the day, demand carbon and all that fancy tech.

  61. Even if GCN (and I love your channel) never use rim brakes again, I can assure you that somewhere in the world rim brakes will always be used – shopping bikes, cheap commuters, 'buffalo' bikes etc. (That is until something better replaces disc brakes and disc brakes become the cheapest alternative…)

  62. Working in the industry I can honestly say that disc brakes are definitely being more consumer driven then industry. Last year I saw so many people buying disc brake bikes because they were asking for them, not because they were being told to do so. Rim brake bikes sitting on shelves and in company inventory with disc brake models being sold out. I personally don't have a disc brake road bike yet but I do want one. Was caught in a Florida summer down pour the other day on a friends Disc brake bike and the ability to actually stop at the bottom of a hill going into an intersection confidently was very nice compared to the awesome that is cork pads on a carbon rim when a car is coming into said same intersection. Also the fact that disc brake carbon or aluminum wheels don't wear out due to brake use is very nice as well.

  63. #askGNCTech Hello Jon, love GNC tech as I'm a fellow bike nerd. I have a question about how to reduce chain slap? I always cut my chains so they fit both the big ring to the big sprocket and small ring to the small sprocket but I find the rear derailleur cage is quite slack when in the small ring and the chain slaps quite often when I'm climbing. As I never cross-chain big ring to big sprocket when I'm riding, is it OK to cut the chain slightly shorter to reduce slap or is a chainstay protector the only answer?

  64. The analogy with car drum brakes doesn't work – rims are not drum brakes and work more like a disc brake incorporated into the rim. Discs need more braking force which is why hydraulic is so beneficial for them. Dry weather performance is similar in my experience so I don't see a clear reason for them to make rims obsolete…whereas drums were probably rubbish on the front (never tried).

  65. They will go extinct as the mechanical groupsets and aluminium components 🙂

    The industry is puhing on you really hard to promote the disc brakes, huh?

  66. Front end clicking – I had a click just as described and it turned out to be the front calliper bolt. A clean and grease sorted it out.

  67. I don’t see it happening, 70’ and 80’ clinchers are still out there and not cheap at all, I mean the high end ones.

  68. the cheapest chinese carbon rim you can buy is $200, and it's not going to get any cheaper than this. The cheapest aluminum rim is about $20. That's a 10-fold difference. Aluminum will be around.

  69. the "clicking", also check the cables in they run inside the frame. I have one that had frayed in the middle and "tapped" the frame. yes, took a long time to find!.

  70. When I was serious about mountain biking we all jumped at hydraulic discs and tubeless, the advantages were huge , now only ride my road bike , normally in the dry , the advantages of of both are much more limited and 700g weight penalty for discs just ain’t worth it

  71. Hi Jon, great show, can I run a 34 52 with a 11 32 I find the normal compact outer 50 chain ring a bit small, it's been suggested that it should work ok and maybe fit a chain catcher.
    Your thoughts, thanks Oldcycle Man

  72. #askgcntech , hi gcn i have a problem with my road bike rear wheel its 3mm closer to the drive train side down on the chainstay , it can impact performance or stearing , or something ??? what can i do ? i reverse the wheel and its the same , the wheel its fine …..tytyty

  73. #askGCNtech Hey GCN. Love the show! I just scored myself a Principia RSLe 2010 for free (yes for free 😍). It got carbon fork and a 105 flight deck groupset, fsa handlebar, stem and sadelpost. The gears run smooth, but inspired by the "cheap bike to superbike" I've been thinking about making some upgrades, but want to know what your thoughts abot that is – would you keep the original groupset or upgrade to a new one?

    The bike will be used as a commuter or winter bike

  74. i'm GCN fan! Tech ? Have any of the GCN crew filed off the nubs on the front fork drop outs to help the quick releases release quickly? Heard the pros do it, I'd like it better, what do you think?
    Thanks, Mike
    High Sierras

  75. #askGCNTech Hi, I'm in big need to find out how to adjust the shifting on my Cyclocross bike. I've got 3 bikes, two of which are mountain bikes, one with 2×11 Shimano XT, the other with Sram NX 1×11 and I can adjust them perfectly. However that is not the case with my Cyclocross bike which has Sram Apex 1 with 40T chainring in the front and a 11-42 cassette on the rear. The problem is that if I adjust the derailleur so that I have good shifting on the higher cogs then usually shifting to the lightest gears is bad, and vice versa. As I say I can adjust derailleurs pretty good so I suspect it might be something else. So what else can I try? Thank you!

  76. #AskGCNTech Hi, I have this crankset having 42/52T Chainring and 165mm Crank Arm Length and I have this 12/27T Cassette, I just want a suggestion should I change my Chainring from 42/52T to 39/50 or just stay on my current setup?, it's because I feel like spinning is better than I go high gear during ride btw I also have 11/32 Cassette…

  77. I don't like coated cables because in my experience the coating comes off and accumulates in the outer – adding to friction.

  78. man we still run in germany coaster brakes. a design that is outdated like 70y ago. so it will take a loooong time for alloy clincher to go fully extict.

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