Torque Converter Selection | How to Choose the Correct Torque Converter

Torque Converter Selection | How to Choose the Correct Torque Converter


Hi Im Mike and on this installment of Summit
quick flicks, we are going to talk about selecting the right torque converter for your vehicle.
Selecting the right torque converter for a vehicle can be critical to a vehicles performance
and overall acceleration as an end result. It is difficult for a lot of customers to
select a proper torque converter because they don’t understand how a torque converter
operates. What we are going to talk about today is the function of a torque converter
what it does and how to go ahead and select the proper torque converter for an application.
So before we go about selecting a torque converter for an application it is important to understand
how the torque converter operates and what a torque converter actually is. A torque converter
is a fluid coupling device that is going to go ahead and transfer power from the engine
to the transmission and it is also going to multiply the torque being created by the engine.
What this does it is it gives us the ability to leave the vehicle in gear and come to a
complete stop at the same time. Now what makes this possible in the torque converter is three
components that it is made up of. The torque converter as a whole is going to look like
a fairly simple device and internally it is actually fairly simple as well. What you are
going to is an outer shell that is going to attach at the back side to the flexplate assembly
but as we dissect this torque converter you’re going to come to find that a torque converter
mainly operates off of fluid motion and centrifugal force. What we are going to start with explaining
is the fluid impeller and that is going to be the front shell of torque converter assembly.
This is the only part of the torque converter that is physically attached to the engine
and is in constant motion with the engine because it is because it is welded via this
seam to the compete assembly. Which is going to go ahead and operate off of flexplate motion
as the engine is rotating. What the impellers job is to create fluid motion inside the torque
converter to create that transfer of power. These fins will catch the fluid that the converter
is filled up with then It will go ahead and send that fluid through the torque converter
assembly itself. The next part of the torque converter we are going to discuss is the stator.
The stator is a part that goes ahead and redirects fluid flow towards the impeller for a quicker
reaction of the torque converter for better torque reaction in general in the torque converter
itself followed up by the turbine assembly. The turbine assembly is the part inside the
torque converter that actually transfers the motion between the engine and the transmission.
This is the part that engages with the input shaft internally and what it’s doing is
catching the fluid motion created by the impeller that is being forced against the turbine and
then transferring that power torque to the transmission assembly. We can go ahead and
alter torque converter stall by changing the fin angles the size of the torque converter
which is going to go ahead and affect the amount of fluid flow throughout the torque
converter assembly itself. This in turn affects how high a torque converter stall, how quickly
it reacts how slowly it reacts and this is what makes it such a critical component when
making engine changes, when changing camshafts in an engine and determining how the vehicle
is going to go ahead and accelerate from a dead stop. So now that we understand how the
parts inside a torque converter actually operates and what it actually does, we have to understand
what stall speed really is. Stall speed is basically the term that refers to the RPM
in which the torque converter is transmitting all of its torque throughout the transmission
assembly. There is point in which the converter is going to be slipping prior to this that’s
going to go ahead and let the engine reach its RPM band at a quicker rate of speed to
bring it up to point in which it makes power. That is why a torque converter must have stall
in order for it to operate correctly in an automatic transmission application. Now torque
converters do have two different types of stalls they can produce, a lot of times there
is a little confusion between two and the accuracy of one compared to the other? The
first type of stall that most people tend to measure a converter by at home, let’s
say they have their vehicle at home they put a new converter in and they want to test the
stall range rating of the converter, they’re going to go ahead and test it via foot brake
stall and what this is essentially is , they’re going to go ahead and put the converter in
the vehicle, go out start the car up, get in the driveway, hold the brake pedal and
the gas to the floor at the same time. Now one of two things is going to happen at this
point, either one, the engine is going to quit making RPM’s way before its max RPM
point, or two, it’s going to break the tires loose and override the brakes at some point
in time in the RPM band. This is what’s known as foot brake stall. Foot brake stall
is actually a very inaccurate way to measure torque converter stall, it’s always going
to happen much sooner than the other type of stall that a torque converter is going
to produce. It is actually harmful and dangerous because what it does is overload the torque
converter creates a lot of excessive heat and a lot of excessive wear and tear on the
torque converter itself and will actually shorten the torque converter life. So when
you do something like a torque brake on a vehicle with an automatic transmission what’s
probably going to end up happening is damaging the torque converter in the long run. The
other type of stall a torque converter is going to produce is what is known as flash
stall. Flash stall is the actual stall of the torque converter that the torque converter
is rated at that you are going to see advertised either on our website or in the catalog and
what you will notice about the stall of a torque converter is its always listed in range.
There is no such thing as a specific thirty five hundred stall converter, it’s going
to stall around thirty five hundred RPM depending on certain attributes of that vehicle, whether
it be the vehicle weight, the gear ratio the tire size that’s used on the vehicle the
amount of power that is being produced by that engine. Those are all going to have an
effect on the stall point of that converter. The flash stall rating is the only true rating
of that torque converter that is the only true stall rating you’re going to find on
the torque converter. This is typically much higher than what the foot brake stall is going
to be and it is going to be much more accurate and it is actually much harder to figure out
at home after the torque converter has been installed in the vehicle. It is essentially
is the point from a dead stop when you are going full throttle without the brakes engaged
at the point in which the tachometer needle is going to jump and then the transmission
engages and the vehicle accelerates. Catching this and figuring this out is kind of a tough
task at home it leads to a lot of confusion when people try to go ahead and look at the
stall that is being produced by the converter at home for personal use in a specific application.
As we understand flash stall we now begin to understand why it is difficult to select
a torque converter for an application because of all the different variables that can have
an effect on the stall range and stall rating of the converter in a specific application.
There are a lot of contributing factors to determining what stall is converter is going
to be right for our vehicle and selecting the right one is critical to a vehicles performance
and how it accelerates especially in a drag race application in which 60 foot times are
very important and can have a considerable effect on the end result as far as quarter
mile times go. The main contributing factor to this is determining what converter stall
is right for an application is the camshaft that is installed in that engine. Every camshaft
is going to have an RPM starting range in which it starts to make power now this can
be affected by the cubic inches displacement of the engine as well as the vehicle combination
as a whole. Mainly what we will suggest to most customers and what we suggest that most
of our sales representatives do is they look at the starting arm band of that camshaft
then we will go ahead and select a converter that is 500 RPM higher in stall range than
the starting RPM of the camshaft being used in that engine. Without this critical information
about the camshaft it becomes difficult to select a torque converter accurately for a
vehicle and engine application for any customer. One other thing that was mentioned was that
the gear ratio, tire size, cubic inch displacement of the engine can also have an effect on the
torque converter stall. All of these are not going to have a great effect but they will
have a small or slight effect on the way a torque converter reacts in a vehicle application.
Some things to kind of consider is if you’re putting that converter behind a big block
in comparison to a small block, typically it will stall about 300 RPM higher behind
the big block application in comparison to the small block application and this has a
lot to do with the amount of torque production of a big block type engine. It produces much
more low end torque so the converter has a harder time keeping up with that torque multiplication
that’s happening so it inherently makes it stall at a higher stall speed it’s not
going to be greatly noticeable but its significant to know. This is part of the reason that torque
converters are via range instead of a specific number things like gear ratio, the numerically
higher the gear ratio is in that vehicle it’s going to stall sooner because the vehicle
is going to have less load on it to get it to move forward, it’s going to motivate
itself to move forward much easier, same thing goes with tire size. Tire size is going to
have an effect on the gear ratio of that vehicle. So if you had let’s say a set of 373 gears
and you change from a 28in tall tire to a 26 inch tall tire now what you may not notice
is the torque converter is now stalling at a sooner point than it did previously because
the vehicle has an easier time moving from a dead stop. The other consideration is that
you want to make sure your torque converter stall range is going to be below the cruise
RPM of vehicle on a street application. This is another area where gear ratio comes into
play because if the torque converter stalls higher than what the cruise RPM is on the
highway at 70 miles per hour what’s going to happen is it’s never going to into full
engagement point or stall. What that means is that the torque converter is continually
going to be slipping not completely, it may be slipping at percentage let’s say 20 percent
or so. But that 20 percent is creating friction inside the torque converter as well because
the components are essentially not meshing up with one another, they are not rotating
at the same speed so now what you have is a turbine that is spinning at a different
rate of speed than the impeller of the torque converter. What this does is it creates excessive
heat that excessive heat creates ware and what can happen is you may break a weld on
the snout or you may damage the internal components because of the excessive heat which inherently
is then going to damage the internal components inside the transmission because the transmission
has a certain RPM operating range that it wants to operate at temperature wise which
is typically anywhere from 170 to 210 degrees much like your engine. So what are some symptoms
of having the wrong torque converter for a vehicle? Stall is too low, the engine shuts
off when put into gear, very poor acceleration, the vehicle lunges and tries to override the
brakes essentially when put into gear. If the stall is too high the engine will have
a very small operating range. The converter never reaches stall at the cruise RPM or the
transmission will over heat or burn fluid through the converter never stalling. So in
summery the general rules of thumb for selecting a torque converter for a street application
are: Select a converter that’s stalls roughly 500 RPM higher than starting RPM of the camshaft,
remember converters installed in big block applications typically stall 300 RPM higher
than a small block application and always choose a converter that will below the highways
cruise RPM. This can be determined knowing the gear ratio and tire size, if this is now
known the torque converter life will be shortened considerably.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. I learned one lesson, don't go by the advertised stall rating. Bought a B&M 2400 and it stalled pretty much on the money. Had to have it repaired during race season and replaced it with a Summit one that was advertised @ 3000, but it actually only stalled @ 2200. Boy, was that ever a let down. The B&M is back in it now. Anyone want the Summit converter ? Very low mileage. Probably only 25-50 miles on it. (Torqueflite 727)

  2. Summit, I am trying to find an upgraded converter for a 2013 Dodge Dart 2.0L with Power-tech 6F24.  Here is some information to assist in this:
    Displacement – 1,995 cc
    Compression ratio – 10.2:1
    Cam profile – Dual-Overhead / DOHC
    Injector size – 36 mm
    Transmission model year – 2013
    Gear Ratios – 1st – 4.21 / 2nd – 2.64 / 3rd – 1.80 / 4th – 1.39 / 5th – 1.00 / 6th – 0.77
    Rearend gear ratio – 3.20 (final-drive ratio)

    the torque rating is only capable of 185 ft-lb of torque and I know a lot of 2.4 and 2.0 guys are coming close to hitting that limiter with tunes and bolt on upgrades.  The 2.4L stock from factory is already pushing, 174 lb-ft, and with only 185 ft-lbs available from the power-tech automatic, there is little room for growth.  Let me know if you need any other information in regards to the Dart, I will try and help out as much as possible with the information I have.  I think if we are able to get a past the stock 185 ft-lb torque rating on the power-tech a lot of others will see the potential in the automatic and the Dart.

  3. I've a Chevy Step-Side with a 427 Rat with a mild cam pushing a quality 3800 – 4000 ish stall torque converter.  The transmission is a 3 speed 400 Turbo with 4:11 gears in the rear and 33" tires.  The truck, I suspect, was properly built for very serious bush-bashing.  I would like the Rat to be able to go to sleep on the highway (overdrive, likely), and be fun to drive around town.  It drives city & highway alright already, but I feel it could hook up sooner, shift more positively/immediately.  Putting along at 60 mph, it feels well hooked up at 3200 rpm or so, but the 427 makes so much torque, I feel it doesn't need to be spinning like that.  I want to be able to do it all.  I want to drive it in the city, the highway, and the track.  Slush-boxes are beautiful when you get them right, but so confusing to get there.  Oh, hell … I'll probably just put a 5 or 6 speed in the thing, and get on with it – haha.  Any advice?  It is a set up full of contrasts.  An interesting puzzle.

  4. I've never owned a stalled auto but i'm buying a Trailblazer SS this weekend. I've been told it has a built motor, 3200 stall and stock 4.10 rear. I'll have to drive it 5 hours back home. Will it be safe to drive it that far?

  5. Great video!! But I have a question, I want to install a 3000 stall converter in my 1998 grand cherokee 5.9 but the issue is that my cruising rpm on the highway is only 1300 rpm, does this mean that I can only do around 1300 stall?

  6. So is it best to use a delay Box with a 5000 stall instead of just launching from foot break.Dont really want to use a delay box but the vega I'm buying has a 5000 stall.Very novice.

  7. I have a 68 camaro that I've recently added a 406 small block to. My mechanic says I will need a 2500 stall converter for it. I have the stock transmission in it. Is this accurate and what's the plus to doing this?

  8. I have an 82 Camaro 408ci sbc vortec top end and th350,, 3.08 diff  27 inch tyres,, the cam is set to operate 1500,5700 rpm and the car cruises at 2500 rpm and its fast,,what converter will I have made,,if I get a 2000 stall will the car still be driveable in reverse parking and general traffic under 2000 rpm,, or will it rev and go nowhere until it hits 2000rpm. steve in Australia

  9. I have a 2010 Dodge ram 1500 Hemi, 35" tires, stock cam, and when I am doing a u turn or turning right, e.g. not coming to a complete stop my engine bogs when I turn in and roll on the throttle? Is this the torque converter? Additionally, which one could I upgrade to in order to increase performance? Thank you~

  10. So Im going ask a question using some generic info..

    I have a cam that requires 3000rpm stall.  I am ready to buy a converter.  But I intend to change my diff from 3.23 to 4.11 later on.. Any advice?

  11. ok I own a 440 dodge coronet with a 3.23 rear differential with its original 489 case housing . Car was going 45 mph butt forced like needing another another gear. . What mechanic suggested was to replace it with a 2.76 in its original  case 489 83/4 housing. Car runs better butt like heavy … U think I will need to replace the torque converter? Thanks

  12. Does summit sell a torque converter for a 2005 acura tl aouto transmission 3.2 full bolt ons on the vehicle and it stalls bad actually bogs I'm sure it's the torque converter?

  13. I have a stock 2005 g35 sedan with just headers and exhaust I would like to get a stall converter so I can get a better 60ft any tips on what I should do first?

  14. good video , if you reach the  stall speed  on the hwy like 2500 rpm  70 mph and you have to slow down to 2000rpm and 60 mph dose it is going to slip all the waw to 25000 rpm un till you reach 2500 rpm or 70 mph  or  it only doo that at slow speed when you drag racing the first 60 ft to be in power band thank

  15. Can you recommend a torque converter for a 700r4 behind a  mild street/light off road.. The truck has 4.88 gears and 33" tires

  16. I couldn't help but notice 7:51 into the video his beard grew and his hair got messy he even started sweeting. He probably didn't like to put all of his knowledge on video now he can get fired and the video used as a training vid. Thanks for the video buddy.

  17. I dont understand. Lets say i got a comp cam 274 that RPM range starts 2400, and you mentioned that i should get a torque converter less than RPM range when cruising. Well when i cruise , i am around 2200 RPM so i should get a converter less than 2200 ? But i thought i should go 300 above my CAM card starting rpm which is 2400, so that means i should get a converter around 2700 stall ? Kinda confused…

  18. i have a 1980 monte carlo with a stock 305 v8 and i just replaced the transmission for a 350 turbo. and when i put the car in reverse or drive it stalls if i dont give it gas or when im in drive and have to come to a complete stop the car will stall. im convinced that it is the carburetor because the choke doesnt work and the carb isnt adjusted right. but could it be the stall convertor?

  19. can you recommend a torque converter for a sbc 350 bored .30 over, .488 lift cam,double roller timing chain,turbo 350 trans,square body chevy 2 wheel drive,stock 15 in tires 342 gears

  20. hello summit I have a 1983 k10 4×4 fullsize truck it has a 3.07 gear in it Witch I'm going to swap out for a 3.90 gears. I'm going to be running 33×12.50 15s …I don't know what camshaft it has in it but it but I'm going to be going with one of your thumper cams and I've already got a 2400 stall converter from you guys..what I would like to get some help with is will this combination work on a daily driver w/towing sometimes please any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

  21. The problem I have is the car used to foot brake from 3500-4500 and I left the line at 3000 so did I burn it up doing this? I have a cam that is smooth at 3000 so should I go with another type of launch?

  22. Too bad your salesman sold me the wrong one, $1000, sent it back cause you guys got it from TCI and it wasnt the right one.the worst ever! I should know, had three replaced and didnt even leave the shop! Been waiting 2 weeks for a 5000 dollar refund for the fraudulant tranny you sold me from performance automatic. Missing parts, didnt work and lied about the 400+ hp.

  23. Hi, would I have any issues by going from a low stall converter to a Med stall converter?I am replacing my transmission, and the replacement transmission has this converter, same specs as my old one but with higher stall,
    DLPF 2420 9245
    TC-GM35CW       Torque converter, 700-R4, 4L60E, 30 Spline, Medium Stall (Woven carbon)
     Woven Carbon Clutch, Codes: DCNF, DLNF, DLPF Medium Stall (1600-1800)
    12" diameter, 298mm, Pilot 1.703", 3 Pads, 30 spline, PWM with ECCC my old converter has these specs: (lower stall)
    DHPF2420  6163
    TC-GM33CW       Torque converter, 700-R4, 4L60E, 30 Spline, Low Stall (Woven carbon)
     Woven Carbon Clutch,Codes: DHPF, DHPG, DKNF, DKPF Low Stall (1400-1600)
    12" diameter, 298mm, Pilot 1.703", 3 Pads, 30 spline, PWM with ECCC

  24. This guy knows what he's talking about. Trust me. I've learned from trial and error. Blew my stator in a foot brake stall left me using my gears manually in a automatic transmission. Had a bad sprag and/or one way clutch.

  25. THANK YOU!  omg, my cuda is nonstop overheat on the hwy even in cold with a new radiator.  now I know why.  2.73 gears and 27" tires equals 2200rpm @ 65.  NEVER gets above the 2400 stall converter (cam is rated for 2000). Time for a rear gear change!

  26. I'm gonna go ahead and let you know you said "Go Ahead" 14 times in this video. If you could go ahead and cool it with the go aheads, that would be great.

  27. I had a 10.4 in. factory converter it would "stall" @ 1,800 behind a 273 behind a 440 it went to 2,500. It is cubic ins. and torque that makes it work. Have all the info. BEFORE you order the parts.

  28. Some of this info is incorrect if you use a lock-up converter.. I know a guy who put a TCI 3000 stall converter in his 2007 mustang GT. He can footbrake stall it to 2500. He has 355 gears and it cruises at about 1800. He has been running it on the street and bracket races almost every weekend and has never had a problem in years and years. His is a multi disk LOCK_UP converter.

  29. No one ever give a key piece of information about torque converts… At some point a torque convert transmits POWER at nearly 1:1 ratio.. that is "Stall" speed.. once the converter is transmitting power at the highest rate it is capable of. Thus, from idle to stall speed, your car will run, roll, excellerate but you will feel a 'slipping' or mushiness in the 'transmission of power'.. this is not your transmission 'slipping' it is your 'torque converter' 'spooling up'… as the TC 'spools up' the 'transmission' of power from your engine to your drive shaft reaches near 1 to 1 ratio.
    The ONLY true "PERFECT" 1 to 1 'transmission' of power, from your engine to your drive shaft is achieved with a TRUE clutch and manual transmission.
    ALL automatic transmissions/converters have "LOSS" of power and efficiency. Could be 5%, or more, there are many variables. Transmission fluid, fluid temperature, the wear on the transmissions internal clutches. None of these 'variables' can be completely mitigated. (resolved) They will always be an unpredictable variable, that you will pull your hair out trying to figure out what when wrong. Drag racers will tell you, their quickest times, and their "FIRST RUNS" and the racing and day goes on they get slower and slower. Fluid get hotter, metal expands, soft clutch material degrades/deforms under these harsh conditions.

  30. i have a 273 single pattern camshaft and the torque converter is stock i got.the tranny out of the junkyard and put in a racing kit in it would i have to replace the converter or…..

  31. This is all backwards! Stall speed isn't the speed when a torque converter stalls, it is stalled up until that point.
    So a 3000rpm stall TC is STALLED until it reaches 3000rpm!
    With a TC below stall speed, the flow of fluid out of the impeller isn't producing maximum force on the turbine.
    Think of it like an airplane wing, a wing is stalled when airflow doesn't flow over the top of the wing smoothly and it can't produce lift, like at low speed.

  32. My car stalls when the rpm get lower than about 400. Why would I want it to stall above 2 or 3 ++ thousand rpm?? I'd just have to keep starting it back up and ruin the city driving I do on my commute. (I host bingo daily at the institution my mother has been committed to so I can help keep a better eye on her so she has a better chance at staying safe.) 🤞🤞🤞

  33. this video just looks wrong, a white board, a white surgically clean table, and a guy in a buttoned up collar ironed shirt, um no thanks, I want a greasy guy named Ed or Lou telling me what to do with a New York accent with a cuss word thrown in here and there, LOL

  34. I listen to these types of videos for entertainment only. I bought a B&M 3500 stall converter and it worked on my 76 Nova stalling to 3200-3500. This was what I expected. Both cars about the same. Then bought a Summit brand and put it in my S10 with a 400hp 406, broke the tires lose at 1800-2100. Now some people would say thats because the S10 was lighter. I don't thing so. These test were done sitting still holding the brake. There is no way for my converter to tell the difference between my tire size, vehicle weight or any other factors. B&M says 33200-3500 that is what you get. Off brand converters you will never know what you're gonna get. So, the next converter I bought was a BossHog converter from summit. This one pulled the same crap on me, it broke the tires lose at 1800 to 2000 rpm; Had a talk with the company in Muscle Shoals they went into vehicle weight, gear ratio, horse power and their usual bullshit. Sorry, I don't buy those concepts! In the end the BossHog converter loosened up and managed to make it up to 3200-3300 in my S10. But I still don't buy into all the science they say goes into a converter. My 2 cents. Buy quality first and you wont be disappointed. It's all about buying a quality product in the beginning. You get what you pay for.

  35. My dodge charger 2011 has no transmission in the vehicle or battery. When I got it towed, I wasn't able to get the car in park and I had the tow man just drag it on the flatbed. Now the car is still in park but if I push it I can get it to roll like it's in neutral. What do you think I broke?

  36. So…I should think of the Torque converter like a clutch? A 3000 Stall TC would Slip (Like your foot is on the clutch pedal) until it reaches 3000rpm?
    If so, then why would you want one that slips all the way to 4000 rpm?

  37. sounds silly to some people but will anyone actually build an auto tranny for a honda accord. I want to make 500 on spray. I allready have forged internals in the engine just worried about grenading the tranny

  38. I overhauled my engine in my 1997 silverado with stock parts and now my transmission stalls. But before the repair,I didnt have that issue.Like I would accelerate ant I would be gone!…zoom!!
    Could it be that my engine has gained more power due to the repairs that the torque converter now doesnt respond fast enough??

  39. Ive always used a stock converter no matter what engine is in there. I like to build old classic Chevy Trucks and currently have a 66 Ford F100 project plan. I was looking at a 390 FE crate engine at 420HP and it says a stall is required with that engine. Why does the engine need a stall if I have no need to rev the engine up so I can get a big launch??? Im not building a drag racing truck….I just want a powerful engine to play with on the street. I dont need it to run up to 3000 RPM before it takes off. So why would it say a stall converter is " REQUIRED"??? When I touch the pedal I want it to take off immediately and go llke every other truck ive had. This 390 Ford big block will have more torque than all the Chevy small blocks ive had bolted to turbo 350 transmissions with stock converters. It should have gobs of torque right from the start so I dont get why a stall is " required" for that engine. Im just ignorant on the subject because ive never used one or had manual transmissions so please forgive me. I just want a 66 Ford truck high power cruiser….not a drag truck.

  40. a friend of mine is putting a 650 HP LS motor with a 3500 RPM stall , into a car with a 2.7 back end . Hes a know-all who doesnt listen , but how will that affect it ? seems to me its going to be driving around everywhere slipping , as well as slowing the accelaration due to being so tall geared

  41. They also do effect idle rpm in drive, my stock th350 in my c10 only idles at 550 rpm max in drive, my buddies same transmission with aftermarket stall converter idles at 750 rpm in drive, so it does effect idle in drive despite all the dumbfucks stating otherwise

  42. Doing a brake stall test for around three to five seconds to find out the stall capacity of the torque converter will not damage the internal parts.

  43. Great job explaining that. Glad you stated about the range and all the variables. That does make more sense. And I like the part about stalling at 500 rpm higher than camshaft . Also the part about choosing a converter that will stall below highway cruise rpm. Did not know that one.

  44. I don’t agree with this guy. He said if your stall rpm is higher than your highway speed rpm your stall will never lock up. This is false. If this were the case they wouldn’t make a street application for a stall converter. I mean with a 3000 stall you would have to be running a 500+ gears to get you to 3000 rpm’s at highway speed so it would lock up. I just watched several videos of a 5600 stall completely locking up at 2200 rpms. He could drive it normally. when accelerating it would rev to 2200 rpm’s before it would start rolling, it would maintain the same rpm’s until it reached around 40 mph, then it would lock up into drive. So his highway cruising speed was no different than it was from the factory, with zero slipping.

  45. is it true that 4 liters are stuck in torque converter when you change new transmission fluid.? the new 5 liters get mixed with the old fluid that is in torque converter? thank you..

  46. What about lockup tq converters? Like in a camaro, is a 2800-3000 stall possible?, with lockup converter, and 3.45 gears? Cruse at about 1800 rpm , its a street car, 385 cid. 11:1, comp nos hp cam . 2800-6800, but I would like to cruse at 1800-2k,

  47. I have a Cummins 4bt3 in front of a TH400 .I want the most effective torgue converter for its powerband. Can you help? NCredleg

  48. My cruise is at about 1500 or so, so you are saying if I get a 2800 stall speed,
    it would never get into overdrive?

  49. I am green and other than 40 series flowmaster/k&n CAI, Have a stock 2012 6speed auto, 65rfe/5.7 hemi. I am interested in off the line response. What converter suggestions do you have?

  50. I have a 1970 C10, it differently has a after market cam installed. the dealer that I got it from doesn't know what cam was put in before, my mechanic installed a fuel injector system because of the carburetor just wasn't cutting it, but I have great cruising speeds but terrible acceleration, it's time to upgrade the converter, wish me luck

  51. so at cruise speed you say you want the TC to stall out or it will be slipping but that dosent make sense because at cruise speed the clutches will be locked so there is no fluid coupling occurring anyway…

  52. We all thank you for the guidance and wealth of information , but could you please make these informative videos in a studio ? Background noise kills your educational effort . Great video otherwise . Thank you !

  53. Would have been good to note that a lockup converter won't have the issue of stalling higher than cruise RPM. Also, would like you to address what typical factory stall ratings are….maybe provide the stall figures for common vehicles to help us understand the impact of changing stall speeds for those vehicles.

  54. So if I have 3:73 gears running 275/55/20 and camshaft 2500 -3000rpm powerband… I need a 298mm billet lockup converter and what stall should I get for my 4l60e

  55. So wonder if your brake and flash stall are at the same point?
    In my 96 Ram with 156K on the original trans, I can hold the brake (and use E-brake to prevent wheelspin) and hit about 2200rpm. When I punch it from a dead stop, I also flash to about 2200rpm on stock diameter tires and 4.10 gear, truck at ±4800lbs.

    Why would they be the same?

  56. Ok, regarding stall below highway cruising rpm, that is irrelevant if using a lockup type converter, correct? Say my engine needs a 3500 stall for the build, but gets driven on the highway at 75mph at 2500rpm, if using a lockup style, that's still fine, correct?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *