Top 5 Mistakes You’ll Make When Going Tubeless | Mountain Bike Maintenance

Top 5 Mistakes You’ll Make When Going Tubeless | Mountain Bike Maintenance

– Setting your tyres up
tubeless on a mountain bike has a lot of benefits when you’re riding on the trail, but it doesn’t always go to plan when you get them set up in the first place. So, with that in mind,
we’re gonna take you through some of the things that go wrong when you set your tubeless tyres up. Here we go. (peppy music) So, the most important
thing with any tubeless setup is your fit between
your tyre and the rim. Now firstly, you’ve
gotta start with a tyre that at the very least is tubeless ready. What that means, is the carcass itself is sealed, so the sealant won’t actually leak out through this. Now, secondly, is the
actual rim design itself. Now, occasionally you’re gonna come across a rim like this, with a sealed rim bed. This is designed to be set
up tubeless from the off. They’re not so common these days, so what I’m gonna actually show you is the rims off my bike, and these
are DT’s and they’re of conventional rim
design, where the spoke and nipple can penetrate
through the rim here. And you use this, a dedicated taping system, to seal it up. And along with that, you have a special valve, and then away you go. So by just installing the tyre, half onto the rim here, with no sealant at this stage, I can actually see how good the fit is. This is pretty grippy, as you can see. It’s not moving anywhere. So, the first step I’m actually gonna do moving on from here is do a dry run. Get the tyre set up, tubeless with no solution in it; that means
minimal waste, later on. When you remove your valve core, there’s two extra benefits you get. One of them is it makes
it very easy to clean. So you can get that
solution out when it dries up and causes issues with it. And the second one, is you can actually put sealant directly into the tyre through the valve itself using a syringe. This is far less messy
than actually pouring it into the tyre and it does mean when your tyres are seated, if you need to top up on sealant you can do this easily. Another big mistake that people make with a tubeless setup is not doing a dry run first. So there’s a lot of reasons to do that. Firstly, you get to find out if the bond between your tyre
and your rim is good and you can change that afterwards. Secondly, you’re not
wasting tyre sealant on the floor by spraying it everywhere. So, always recommend
doing a dry run first. And, although I’m calling it a dry run I’m referring to that
’cause you’re not using the sealant, but something you definitely do wanna use is some soapy
water, just to help the bead pop into place. So, to do a dry run, there’s a few things you need. You need your tubeless
pump, or C02 Cartridges, whatever method you’re gonna use. You need your warm
soapy water, your tire’s already been fit onto the rim, and what I recommend doing, is taking
your valve core out. So, this will definitely
get the beading to pop into place a lot easier than with the valve core in, but what it does mean is when you remove the pump from the valve you’re gonna get a rapid air escape. So, you wanna be ready to just plug the valve core back in and tighten it. And then, you’ll get a good indication if your tire’s gonna stay up properly or if it’s a good fit or not. So that’s the dry run,
and I’ve got my setup done with no tubeless sealant inside. It’s inflated and it’s seated so you could hear it ping out there. (tyre pop) The reason why it’s good to do it this way is I haven’t wasted any sealant or more importantly, wasted time. So, the reason for this is, if it is a baggy fit and you
can’t seal it, it’s easy enough at this stage to remove your tyre and just put some more rim tape around ’cause you haven’t got
all the mess involved. So when it comes to actually inflating with your tyre sealant, firstly make sure you’ve got decent tyre
sealant, and you’re using the correct amount of that. Give it a good shake as well, so the particles are well sort of mixed up in with the milk. It is worth saying that if your rear tyre, it’s actually worth putting a little bit more sealant than you do in the front, just
because you’re more likely to burp that tyre, and the extra sealant is gonna help seal that. Uhm, you can obviously pour the tyre sealant straight into the tyre and most people do this, it works fine. However, I’m gonna show
you the method installing it through the valve
itself, once the tyre is already on and popped into place. The reason for that is,
it’s far less chance of wasting any and it’s expensive stuff. So now I’ve got my tyre
seated and it’s fully inflated, with the sealant inside. So, the next part of the process, and the last part hopefully, is just to slosh the sealant around on the inside, make sure it coats the inside
of the tyre nicely. And just leave it on
each side for a little while, just to make sure it coats it and seals any gaps in there. You might find with some tyre combinations with rims, that you might have to do this overnight and reinflate the next day, but, generally after second inflation they’re good to go. So another tubeless setup mistake that people often make is not having a correct pump to get your tubeless system inflated in the first place. In an ideal world, you
wanna use a compressor, and a lot of bike shops have these, and you might have a friend that does. The good thing about a compressor is you get a constant flow of air at a good rate, so your tire’s just gonna pop out into place first time. So the next best thing
is to have one of these sort of style pumps that
have got a compressed canister built into them. So, using the pump handle itself, you inflate this, and when
you’re ready, you can actually release the air all in one here to inflate your tyre. And that’s a great system, but more often than not you can get away with using just a regular track pump but you are definitely
gonna come across an awkward tyre here and there. So if you don’t wanna spend out on one of those, it’s
worth having a couple of C02 Catridges at home. The good thing about these, same as a compressor, is you can get out a lot of air in one single burst by just attaching it to your valve. Just gonna show you how this works. (air gushing) Now these are all one time use products, so you basically pierce them so all of the C02 comes out in one hit. With that in mind, you
don’t want to just throw it in the bin afterwards, make sure you recycle these, and also
something to bear in mind is don’t use these with bare hands because they get freezing cold and your fingers will stick to them. So make sure you’ve got
a pair of gloves on. Hopefully this video’s given you some great insight into
setting up your tubeless system, and more importantly the common mistakes to avoid in doing so. Click here in the middle on the glow to subscribe, there’s a brand new video every single day, and also there’s two more great videos here to watch. Up top here, there’s five
reasons to go tubeless. And down at the bottom here, there’s everything you need to know about mountain bike tyre pressure. Finally, give us a thumbs up if you liked the video.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Now what we need is a edit on refreshing your tubeless. I think mine are about ready but get a bunch of conflicting info on when, where, and how.

  2. Just curious, if I inflate with CO2 can I top it off with my normal pump later when required or do I need to first deflate the tyre completely?

  3. I've had a few "tubeless ready" tires with porous sidewalls, the Orange Seal does a nice job of sealing them up. If sealant comes all the way through, that's a "hole".
    I think more important than tubeless ready tires is a tubeless ready rim with a bead shelf. Haven't had a burp yet with proper setup.

  4. First time setup, 29er stans no tubes and Minion DHF new tires. I have gotten the tires onto the rims and inflated to around 40psi, but I have not yet heard the "pop", I am using a floor pump and tires are holding at 40psi overnight – should I go higher pressure until the beads pop?

  5. What happens when you need to take off your tires? I imagine it's like taking off the blenders lid while it's in use.

  6. Hey guys, i really love your channel. And i have a question: when we inflate our tyres with co2 cartiges is it good ghe let the co2 inside? I have heard that it wasent good

  7. Cool video especially as I've been thinking about going tubless lately. Where can I get one of those pumps ? Could you send me a link for it please? Looked on eBay and any find the exact one! Thanks

  8. And if you ask your local bike shop to set up your new wheel set tubeless…. make sure they actually do what you ask them. My tubeless wheels turned out to have tubes in them…. which was actually a relief when I came to swapping tyres over.

  9. if you're putting rim tape on, make sure you pull it as tight as you can. i stupid, so the first 8 times i did it, the tape wasn't tight and didn't seal.

  10. The biggest mistake when going tubeless is buying continental tyres. Even those handmade in germany are useless and leak air and sealant like crazy. And they are hella expensive…

  11. I tried to do it myself I even bought a big bottle of Stans and rim tape tubeless valves and the floor pump but still I’m on inner tubes 🤬 I couldn’t get my tires sealed to the rim I tried everything to no avail so I’m back to inner tubes for now until I get myself TR ready tires the tires I bought were Maxxis Ardent’s EXO maybe that was the problem not getting TR ready ones.

  12. Tried today a dry run…a lot of air flowing from the valve;only the valve;the other parts were perfectly seal. Any suggestion? Do I need to add sealant or switch valve?

  13. Hi Doddy! Can you please tell me if using ammonium based tire sealant can do any damage to the tires or rims? Is it corrosive? (i have maxxis aspen tires and Mavic Crossmax SLR rims).

  14. Doddy, I have some issues with leaking at my valve stem on the dry run. Tire snaps into the rim nicely, no leaks at the rim, just a slow steady leak at the valve stem. What am I doing wrong?

  15. Fuck it I'm sticking to Dr sludge innertubes and smart sam plus tyrez, just as good all for the sake of getting a little less resistance in ride quality and saving about half a Kilogram inertia. I mean sure, if you race competitively then I can see how it's worth it.

  16. My cube attention has Schrader valves, do I need to get Schrader tubeless set (sure I've seen these), or do I need to get a presta setup (and will this be fine in a slightly larger hole originally designed for schrader)?

    GMBN, great work as always and fantastic channel. 🚵🚴

  17. Do a dry run with soapy water? What happens if some of that soapy water gets into the tyre and then you add the sealant afterwards, wouldn't the soapy water inhibit the sealant from doing its job?

  18. Hi mate, so I can't get my tyre to seat (Using Joe's sealant), on a dry run.
    Do I need more tape?! There must be a way to open a Schrader and just put it into the inner tube?

  19. I have Mavic tubeless wheels and in the manual I was advised not to use CO2 when using the sealant. It is highly likely that the sealant won't work, when there is CO2 in the tires. I hope it was worth mentioning. Cheers!

  20. The number one mistake people make when going tubeless… is going tubeless.

    Like bar ends and tight shorts, this too shall pass… or more likely, merge with the UST design so its not such a messy, and expensive, pain in the #@$%ing ass!

  21. When you put the tape in, how high up the side of the rim should it go? Should it overlap with the bead?

  22. Is it worthless to go tubeless on a touring bike considering the fact that you are out in the woods with no ability to get a specialized tubeless pump? I guess the CO2 would be the way to go?

  23. One and only mistake is going tubeless. Just some of the things you won't need if you have a tube: $20 sealant bottle, $10 valve core tool, gorilla strength to mount tires, $200 air compressor!

  24. The valve is the weakest,least reliable part of the typical tubeless set up. If you carelessly pump your tires out on the trail you can break the seal and land up putting in a tube in , make a big mess or walking home.
    Try not to torque the valve , breaking the seal at o ring on valve. Get a pump with a hose such as Lezyne.
    The most reliable set up is to use Stans conversion strips that have the valve built into a rubber strip- no o ring to unseal. OR I use the ‘ghetto’ split tube method. Its the least expensive. Look it up!!Its A little more time intensive to set up. Maintained properly, by periodic addition of sealant and making sure you ALWAYS inflate before EVERY RIDE, this set up will work until the tire is worn out. I ride in places where Im on my own, no cell service! Help is often 4 hours or more away!I demand reliability of my bike!!
    Ive experimented with all the different set ups since 2002. I wrench in a shop.
    The original set up from way back when STILL WORKS THE BEST! Better than all the fancy new tubeless ready wheelsets and systems. HOWEVER, use the newer tubeless compatible tires. They hold air better and dont constantly sweat sealant. Avoid the super light tires!!
    IF you really want to benefit the most from a tubeless set up, it requires a little experimentation and definitely more maintenance than using innertubes. Find tires that fit your rims properly. If you cant inflate without sealant and have it hold air for a few minutes , using a compressor, its probably not a reliable set up. If you have to use more than 2 layers of rim tape, find a better fitting tire.
    Set up proper and maintained well Ive NEVER gotten a flat besides slashed sidewalls. For 15 years!!! I run 32-40c and 2.1-2.4 tires at real low pressures.

  25. great tips, thanks.. just one thing though, the Continental Revo Sealant says to not use CO2 to inflate tyres on the bottle. Not sure if thats because of some chemical reaction or temperature issue. Dare say many have used CO2 and had no probs, just wondering why they put that on the bottle if it's not something to consider. cheers

  26. Doddy – I'm planning go go tubeless on my 2004 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo. Bought this bike used about a year ago and have been riding/working on it since. This is my next upgrade. So, I was at the LBS looking at what options they had for tape, valves, and sealant. During my conversation with the tech he pointed out that the sealant manufacturers state the sealant has a useful life. What he couldn't tell me is do I just sweeten the sealant with another dose or would it be better to remove the tire and wipe down the inside of the tire and rim before recharging. Hope you can provide some good advice. Thanks, Tom

  27. I used a regular bike pump, did no dry run, and just poured the sealant into the tire. Had no issues, and no spills. Good practice for when you're out on the trail with a gash in the sidewall that you may need to patch up.

  28. Hack as you requested. I use a 7 L garden sprayer as an air Reservoir to see the cheapest tyres works a treat and it's safe as long as the spray has a saftey pressure valve.
    Check out this video and then my comment to see how to do it. it works a treat

    £7.99 Sprayer

  29. After I fit the tire without the sealant and do the dry run I can hear air leaking out at higher pressure. Does that mean I didn't do it right or is it gonna be fine after I put in the sealant?

  30. Did my tubeless set up with only a cheap floor pump. It popped perfectly in just a few pumps. I have DT swiss M1900 and Maxxis minions. I don't know why people make it sounds so critical to have a fancy pump or an air compressor. Don't be intimidated by it if you only have a floor pump.

  31. The only time I've ever had a problem fitting a tubeless tyre is when someone else has done the rim tape, every time I've done the rim tape myself it's sealed first time and the sealant lasts for literally years. Never bothered removing the valve core, never used a syringe to inject the sealant, just a track pump and some muscle! My tip is to use some sealant to help the tyre slip on in final fitting, no mess with soapy water and it will help seal the final fit; have soapy water standing by to wipe off any sealant dribbles.

  32. Can I run the Maxxis Minon DHF on the front and a Maxxis Aggressor a GT Verb Sport?

  33. I found first washing the inside of the tire with soapy water, then wipe with alcohol gets rid of any silicon from the manufacturing process. Helps the sealants stick to tire.

  34. I used the dry method but air is leaking from the nipples, seam and the valve when i inflate. The tyre won't hold the air.



  36. The most. Importante for me. Is installing a tube inside de Wheel and inflate it so that the tire pops. Into place or against the bead, then remove the tube from one side and put the tire back together into the rim. And then inflate with compressor and it will pop into place, your welcome

  37. I'm starting to think tubeless is a waste of time and a headache I can change a tube in five minutes n make it almost bullet proof

  38. Don't forget to take a look at the expiration date of the milk. Especially when you bought it in a sellout or had it in your garage for a long time.

  39. I'm definitely trying this on my Coyote Skid Row fat bike, even though I have neither tyres nor rims tubeless ready. The tires are kind of worn, but that's partly why I don't mind trying. Also, I do have an old compressor and eight years experience as a car and commercial tyre fitter. So this will be a fun experiment.

  40. co2 bottles are a nightmare, all the crackhead kids are using them to get high and then just through them in the street, there were so many thrown on the road around the corner to me it looks like someone unloaded a whole magazine from an Ak47, ridiculous

  41. I never do a "dry run", never wasted sealant, everything just pops in fine, and no wasted time for inflating deflating…

  42. First off i am a huge gmbn fan. Always have been. You guys put on a quality informative show(Everytime) but when describing shortcuts Doddy tends to use the word "ghetto" As a person who grew up in an actual Ghetto this hits my ears with offense. Not mad just want to clarify that the "ghetto" is where home is to some people. Using that word when describing a shortcut implies the ghetto is half-ass or less-than. To me the ghetto was unity, togetherness and community due to the fact we had to rely on each other to survive. I'm sure people may disagree or think im being too sensitive but "the ghetto) made some of us who we are and im not less than. Didn't mean to rant just think you could use another word…much love from the West Cypress Ghetto, Santa Maria, California

  43. Using CO2 causes a chemical reaction with the sealant. Making the sealant inside useless. Or can you confirm! Using a CO2 bottle at the top, (12 o’clock position) whilst the sealant is in the bottom OK!!!

  44. Doddy I love the concern for the environment in each and every video of your's. And they are really informative….guess you must be getting to hear plenty of this… cheers 🙂

  45. You forgot to warn people. Some sealants I have heard say don't use co2. Cause sealant to chunk up. Other than that. Great informative video. Well done.

  46. I have a great seal between tire and rim – but one keeps losing air through the spoke holes. Using black gorilla tape on the rim. Ive done this 9 times now and losing my mind! Any suggestion?

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