Silverado Prerunner Rear Bumper & Tire Carrier – FullDroopTV (Season 1, Episode 4)

In this episode of FullDroopTV, we fabricate
a rear bumper and spare tire carrier for Project Silverado. Then we give it some race truck style with
aluminum panels. FullDroopTV starts now. This episode of FullDroopTV is brought to
you in part by KC HiLiTES. Welcome to another episode of FullDroopTV. We go the suspension completed on our Silverado,
and now it’s time to add a little protection. We’re going to do that in the form of tube
bumper and integrated tire mount. Hey, how do you like these new shirts? They look great! I think Advertising Edge did a great on them. Yeah, they’re fantastic. We removed the factory Silverado bumper to
show you guys how weak this thing is. It’s all thin gauge steel, half of it’s plastic,
it only mounts to the frame in a couple spots. With the new bumper we’re building, it’s all
going tube steel and flat plate. We’re going to weld directly into the frame
to get as much strength out of it as possible. The factory Silverado bumper hung down about
ten inches from the tailgate. That ruins your departure angle. Any time you’re going off-road and you’re
going over uneven terrain, you want as much ground clearance as possible. So our new bumper is only going hang down
maybe about two or three inches from factory frame rail. That way we have as much ground clearance
as possible, and we’re not going to snagged on anything off-road. As far as materials go for this bumper, we’re
going to be using 2 inch 120 wall round tubing, as well 3/16 inch flat plate. Now, first thing we need to do is remove the
factory tailgate. And keep in mind, these things can be worth
some money so don’t just scrap it. The bolt holding the factory tailgate mount
was stuck. Some spray lubricant and a breaker bar made
quick work of this. We started by cleaning the factory coating
off of the frame. That way we have a clean place to weld to
when we box in this structure. We’re going to make paper templates that are
going to come off and up to the first main tube of our bumper. So we’ve got our paper template cut out, wanted
to show you how it’s just going to lay right on the frame. It will get welded in. And we have a cradle for our tube structure
to start. And it will weld right in that spot. We’re tacking everything in place first. Once we line everything up, we’ll burn it
in. Now that we have our main tube welded up,
I wanted to show you guys that I capped the ends off the truck. The reason I did that, there just wasn’t enough
room after welding to get in here with a grinder and clean up these ends. We set our rear tire in place just to figure
out where we want to make our bends. We’re going to start with this lower tube. We’re going to come out about two feet, bend
approximately a foot of flat. Then we’ll end up doing about two feet back
to this other corner. Well now that we’ve got tube all bent up,
we’re going to take it over to the bench, notch the ends, clean them up, and we’ll get
it tacked back on the truck. So we need a width for our upper tube at 61
inches. We pre-bent the tube and set it on the bench. Then we laid out our 61 inches from the edge
of the bench to this point right here. That way we know where to cut these tubes
off and notch them. We’ve got our mounting points all welded up. We welded the washer into the end of this
tube. We’ve cleaned it up. We’re going to use this hole to run a 5/8
bolt through here and through an existing hole in the bedside. That will serve as our mounting point for
our upper tube structure on the bumper. After we get our nut welded in, we’ll mount
these up fit the tube in place and tack it. Well we’ve got upper hoop welded in place
and bolted in. We’re going to add a couple more support tubes
to the rear bumper. But also, this upper hoop serves two purposes. One as part of our bumper, but also it keeps
these bedsides from wanting to move. What happens is when you off-road, this starts
to loosen up without the support of a tailgate. So your bedsides start to move in and out
and then it will start to crack this material in here. So this will take care of that problem. After we were happy with the positioning of
our support tubes, we tacked them in place and now we’re going to burn them in. We’ve cut and notched some support tubes to
finish off the structure of our rear bumper. After we get those welded up, we’re going
to box in this entire lower frame mount. We got our cardboard template cut out. Basically what its going to do, is going to
sit right in here, its going to weld into the tube, and then into the support plate
that we had earilier. So, we’re going to get transferred on to some
sheet steel, cut out, and put on the truck. With our Chevy Silverado Project rear bumper
fully welded, most people would consider this a completed bumper, but we wanted to take
it to the next level by adding some race truck styling in the form of these aluminum panels. So we use some poster board to make up a finished
template. As you can see here, there’s a break line. We created that break line because we’re working
with two separate planes. Any time you work with two separate planes
like this situation, you need to create a break to close up that gap. That’s why a flat panel wouldn’t work. So let’s show you how we made these templates. Start by taping the paper template to the
tube structure itself. Make your marks alongside the tube where you
want the template to land. After you mark all your lines, cut out your
template with scissors. Use the corner of table or any flat surface
to create the break line. That will give you an idea of where it needs
to be on your aluminum panel. Tape the panel back on the bumper that way
you can check to make sure all your lines line up with the tubes. We’re not actually going to trace this template
out on to our aluminum sheet. We’re going to just mark the edges, that way
we know where they are and we’ll use a straight edge to make all our lines. We’re using a socket just to create the radius
for the corners of our aluminum panels. I’m making a dash where I want the break line
to be. As you can see, we did a layout for where
our license plate is going to go. We’re actually going to roll a step into this
panel on this outside line and it will actually recess the license plate into the aluminum
panel. We finished our layout where we’re going to
be rolling a step into these panels. Now all that’s left is to cut it out with
some electric shears. Well now that we have the lines layed out
on our aluminum sheet, we’re going to be using a bead roller with step dies to create an
indent pattern along these lines we’ve laid out. Just like you see on this finished panel here. Now what that creates is a ton of strength
inside the panel itself. You can see this one is pretty tough, versus
this one that’s pretty thin. Not to mention, it looks cool, too. Using a manual bead roller is kind of a two
person job. I’m going to be feeding the panel into the
dies to roll the step while Adem cranks it real slow. I just to go make sure I have good communication
with him, so that way when we get to the corners, I tell him to slow down, that way we can make
the panel exactly how we want it. Alright, slow down a little bit… Keep going… Alright… For those of you that don’t have access to
a sheet metal, we wanted to show you a way to break this panel, put the bend in it, without
actually having access to that type of machinery. So what we did, is we took two clamps, clamped
a piece of angle steel on top of our panel, and we’re going to use a 2×4 to push down
evenly on this side to create that bend. And there you go! We’ve taped our aluminum panels to the rear
bumper. Now what we’re going to do, is place all of
our quarter turn fastener tabs on the back side of the panel. What that will let us do, is put it in place,
tack it, then we can mark it out with a pen, drill our holes with the panels off the truck,
and finish weld all the tabs. We wanted to show you the individual parts
that make up a quarter turn fastener tab. You have the tab itself, a spring that rivets
in on the backside of the tab, and we’re using eighth inch by quarter inch long rivets to
attach that spring to that tab as you can see here by our premade setup. Now that way the button works, it slides in
through the panel, and through the tab, and attaches by clipping in to the spring on the
back side. All we have to do now is rivet in all our
springs and we’re ready go. To mount our spare tire, we’re using a fairly
common method seen with most prerunners, and that’s a three point ratchet strap. Basically, it is one point in the back, two
that are going to come up to the bedcage. And then all we have is a tab that will weld
right here and then we’ll just clip in, it’s good to go. To finish off the rear bumper for our Silverado
project, we wanted to add some rear facing aftermarket lighting, because the factory
reverse lights just aren’t going to cut it out in the desert. So we contacted KC HiLiTES for a set of their
three inch LED cube lights. They feature four 5 watt LEDs that put out
1800 lumens in a spot pattern. It uses a shock proof aluminum housing, and
they have 50,000 hour life span which equates to about five and a half years of continuous
run time. Can’t wait to get these on the truck. We went ahead and prewired our lights and
to mount the cubes, we’re going to be using this premade tab. We’ll weld that on right here in this location,
we’ll get our harness plugged in, and test them out. We’re really happy with the performance of
our LED cubes from KC HiLiTES. We chose this location because it gives us
best angle and light trajectory out of the back of the truck. It also stays protected because it behind
the body line here and it’s away from our spare tire. So if we need to remove it, we’re not going
to risk hitting on anything. If you have any questions about these lights,
visit FDTV Talk is presented by Prerunner Maniac. Welcome to FDTV Talk. And today’s question comes from Tyler, and
he asks… You know that’s something that everybody asks
when they’re looking to build their first prerunner. Some of the most popular trucks used to build
prerunners happen to be Ford Rangers or Toyota Tacomas. They’re buy in cost is really cheap, so all
that money that you save can used to buy aftermarket parts to finish out your prerunner. But let’s say you want to do a full size truck,
you can find a kit for Silverados, F-150s, Dodge Rams, even Toyota Tundras. So the best place to start is do a search
for long travel kit plus the name of your truck. Look for a company that builds a premade kit
for you. That way you don’t have the added expense
of doing a custom kit which could cost you four, five, six times the amount of a regular
kit. And remember, if you have a question that
you want answered, visit and click on the FDTV Talk icon. And that wraps up another episode of FullDroopTV. You can see our rear bumper came out great
with that race truck styling to it thanks to the aluminum paneling we fabricated. We’ve got plenty of light to see behind us
while we’re out in the desert thanks to our three inch KC HiLiTES LED cubes, and this
spare tire isn’t going anywhere. In our next episode, we’re going to be fabricating
a new front bumper this Silverado. It’s going to feature some more LED light
bars from KC HiLiTES, so be sure to stay tuned.

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