Restoring Engine Cases To Better Than New! | RM250 Rebuild 7

Restoring Engine Cases To Better Than New! | RM250 Rebuild 7

hey guys been a minute since I picked up
the camera feels weird to be filming myself again but hope you guys had a
Merry Christmas and hope the new year is treating you well but today it is back
to work on the rm250 now what we got going on today is we are gonna be
shining up some of the engine parts mostly the engine cases back here and
some of the engine covers now I’ve already gone through and cleaned up the
engine cases in the parts washer got all the grime and dirt off of them they came
out pretty good but they’re still pretty dull scratched
and pitted from 20 years of use so we’re gonna be restoring that shine to
something even better than new now before I get shining on the crank cases
I want to pop out the bearings I’ll be replacing these anyways always a good
idea but how I’m gonna do this is by dropping the crank cases and I believe
there’s a bearing on this cover to you yeah drop them in the oven over here at
350 degrees heat them up for about a half hour and how this is gonna work is
the aluminum which the cases are made of expands and a faster rate than the steel
that is the material the bearings and those bearings should just drop right
out so this method is a lot less damaging and a less stressful in the
crank cases compared to just hammering them out now before I get started I’m
gonna pull out the stopper place that hold the bearings in place it looks like
I got a few on this case too now while the ovens heating up I’m just
gonna shave off these gaskets so that way they don’t get baked down the oven
now if you guys are looking for a good ask a scraper and it packs screwdriver I
will link both of these down below these are probably the most common tools I use
when working on engine before you pop out those bearings you want to make note
of which way the bearings are facing you can see this one has a seal on this side
other side does not same with this one here on the other crankcase one thing to
make note of is this bearing has a lip on it see right around the edge of it so
that way it’s held in with those stopper plates we’ve got some aluminum foil laid
down inside the oven here to catch those bearings as they start to drop out
alright let’s give her 30 minutes see what happens I just heard a loud clunk
in the oven I think he’s bearing they’re starting to fall out oh yeah counter
chef one popped out already see how this right case is looking oh
two bearings sitting there should be able to just pop those ones out with
little tap that is freakin sweet got one more bearing right here oh this is hot
sometimes you can just pick it up and drop it bearing will come out yeah we’re
gonna have to use a puller on that one that was easy just like butter
one thing I just noticed when you heat up the crank case these colors back here
loosen up so make sure not to lose those and if you need to replace those for any
reason you can pop them out pretty easily just by heating up the crank case
it looks like yeah that method works pretty dang good I’ve only done a couple
times but man that’ll save you from a lot of hassle and potential damage to
your cases the bearings for the clutch arm which are usually way down inside
that hole I’ve already got them out but I was able to pull those out with the
blind bearing puller now if you guys are interested in picking up one of these
pullers they’re super handy for crankcases wheel bearings linkage
bearings anything like that super handy to have but I will link it down below
apparently this engine has something just flopping around in at one point you
can see the damage here on the crank cases and on the inner clutch cover a
little scrapes and scratches there I don’t want any of those bits coming
loose so I’m gonna smooth all that out with the die grinder got a little flap
wheel here also one thing I forgot about here on this crank case there’s a big
chip right here also from I don’t even know what it was something broke loose
and the engine I’m gonna smooth that out as well now at this point the cases are
completely bare but you can see they’re still pretty dull got some dirt staining
corrosion just crustiness on them now there’s a few different ways to restore
the shine the first being is vapor blasting that requires some expensive
machinery you could also use some sort of chemical cleaning like a edging
cleaner I’ll show you guys what we can do with that and the third option is to
use some sort of physical polishing or buffing so like cleaning wheels wire
brush scotch-brite steel wool that kind of thing that is the approach I’ll be
going with these now the reason I’m going that route is because it’s cheap I
can do it here and I love the final result of it it is definitely my
favorite you end up with something looking like this which is absolutely
epic but before we do that let me show you what an aluminum edging cleaner will
do with these now I’ve been using the Eagle one magwell cleaner for a while
but I think they’ve started to discontinue it and I was looking for it
at NAPA the other day and ended up planning this stuff the aluminum
brightener it has many of the same ingredients that the megawatt cleaner
has so let’s see if this stuff is a good alternative to the magwell cleaner so
I’m gonna give this stuff a shot inside of here try to loosen up some of that
dirt staining so you simply spray it on and let it soak for about 30 seconds you
see it’s starting to turn white there that means it is starting to kind of
itch the aluminum now you definitely don’t want to use this stuff on anything
polished or anything that has any type of coating like paint or anodizing it’ll
actually eat and icing off I like to brush it around it works a little better so you got most of that dirt staining
off of there it’s still a little bit left to right they’re not exactly sure
what that is just some crap in the aluminum but it doesn’t necessarily
brighten the aluminum up it’s more of just cleaning the dirt staining off like
you would see like down here so I’m actually gonna hit the entire crankcase
with the aluminum cleaner and then move on to giving it an actual shine the Napa
aluminum brightener was the success you can see it got rid of majority of that
dirt staining and corrosion still a little bit of staining left over but it
leaves it pretty dull you can see in comparison to the other crankcase now
one thing I should mention about the aluminum brightener you definitely want
to wear gloves that’s a given and if you’re gonna be using quite a bit of it
I would wear a respirator and goggles or glasses as well so let’s get to shining
this baby up first thing we’re gonna have to do is start smoothing out or
blending in some of these scrapes and scratches on the bottom side you can see
there’s definitely some good sized Nicks here so these scrapes will need to
smooth out before we give the crankcase a nice shine I’ll be attacking the
crankcase with a few different abrasive products now these are considered flap
wheels this medium size wheel and the larger wheel are pretty sweet and the
fact they have like this fiber or scotch-brite material in between the
flaps of sandpaper works really well for smoothing out the metal and ensures you
don’t have like waviness or dips when you’re all finished up and then the
smaller wheel is just straight sandpaper super tiny really nice to have for those
tight areas now this bigger wheel goes on a bench grinder this one is for a die
grinder I know this wheels super worn out and you replace it and then this one
goes on each Rimal now you don’t absolutely need the bigger wheel that is
gonna just rip really fast and save you a lot of time but you could get away
with just those two all three of these ret grit however you can get them in
higher grit but typically 80 grit works best for blending in scratches and pits
so let’s get to work and see what these things will do got this thing looking sweet and all
smoothed out no scratches or pits left over it’s insane how smooth this finish
is compared to the original cast finish now the trick with these flat wheels is
to use light pressure you got to let that sandpaper and fiber do its job and
you don’t want to spend too much time in one specific area especially with these
smaller flat wheels you’ll end up with some waviness or divots if you do that
now what’s on two more cleaning type wheels now these are strictly made of
fiber there’s no st. paper in them so we’re
going to give more of a brush type look now it’s going to be tough to get in all
those tight areas especially on this crankcase with just these wheels but
we’ll give it a shot now where these cleaning wheels really
fall short is if you’re trying to get in tight areas like inside of there that it
really matters inside the flywheel area but if you’re trying to get in these
spots here yeah it’s kind of past the limit of those wheels so what I’m gonna
do instead is send this crankcase out to my buddy Josh who does vapor blasting
he’s gonna go ahead blast it get the whole thing shiny
so essentially what we’ll have is a completely clean and shiny crankcase but
I will maintain the brushed finish that I have here so best of both worlds now I
promise you guys I will be getting a vapor blaster soon I’d love to show you
guys the capabilities of them they’re pretty sweet just need to make some room
in the shop for one but as you guys can tell I love trying to do everything I
can here at home now if we have something like this well there’s not as
many tight areas we could use the flap wheels and cleaning wheels to get this
thing completely shined up and give it a brushed finish after a couple minutes of sanding got
the crankcase all smoothed out those scratches are pits left over I mostly
used the smaller flat wheel for some of the bigger scratches I used the bigger
flat wheel I had a big scratch right there smooth
it out in matter a seconds so I am going to give it the finishing touch with
these cleaning wheels here now I found this fine point attachment
for the dremel that should allow us to get in these tighter areas a little
better and clean that up a bit more seemed to work pretty well in those
tight areas definitely works better than the cleaning wheel for the really tight
stuff man this thing is looking better and better every minute we work on it
cut that nice brush finish we were going for now if you really want to finish it
off really consistent I will grab a piece of scotch brite make sure it has
like a sharp edge on it that we can get in the tighter areas and just go through
spend a minute or two and just kind of rebrand the same direction over the
whole thing so in review we use the small flap wheels to smooth out the
scrapes scratches and pits you don’t want those showing through when you
bring out this brushed finish and then we used the cleaning wheels this one
here along with a smaller one to really give it a consistent shine give it that
true brushed finish and I would say it worked pretty dang good as far as how
many of these wheels you’ll need you could do probably five or six crank
cases with a set of these they last pretty long sandpaper holds up very well
now the cleaning wheels honestly don’t last very long at all I was able to get
this crankcase done with one of each so as you can see they do wear down pretty
quick but they are essential in getting that really cool finish now if you guys
are only concerned with getting a clean finish and not removing scrapes and
scratches you only want to bring back the shine these cleaning wheels do a
great job I’ll show you what it can do on this clutch cover so you can see in like five to ten
seconds sanding you get a pretty dang sweet finish there now like I was saying
earlier these cleaning wheels don’t really last too long so to preserve them
and make them last as long as possible you want to stay away from sharp edges
like right here that’ll tear them up pretty quick you also want to use them
at a lower speed that’ll help prolong the life of them
and if you’re doing any heavy removal of like corrosion or trying to sand out a
scratch definitely use something more aggressive like a flat wheel now I’m
sure a lot of you are wondering if you do this type of finish how do you keep
up on the shine and prevent it from getting corroded and really dirty
quickly the biggest thing is keeping your bike as clean as possible
don’t let dirt sit on there for a long period of time and you can also
periodically clean it up with a scotch brite pad just go through give a little
brush and that’ll help maintain it you could also clearcoat it
alright the crank case is basically done just got to sand some the gasket
surfaces clean up a few small areas but for the most part it is done on the
outside so I would say the entire process took about 4550 minutes to go
through brush this thing completely so a couple more pointers to you guys wanting
to do something like this make sure when you’re brushing or sanding you always go
in the same direction so you want to work the long way and not across like
the short way that’ll give you just that nice consistent shine and also with some
of the smaller flap wheels like these you don’t want to spend too much time in
one area where else you kind of create a divot you want to be really broad with
your strokes now obviously there’s a limit on how much you want to sand into
the cases if you have a deep scratch that goes half way through the thickness
you obviously don’t want to sand that out you can see it gets pretty thin in
some areas but for your average scratching and pitting on the bottom
side that you can sand out just fine now if you guys want to take on a project
like this I will have all the links to the wheels
the tools including the die grind the Dremel all down below in the
description realistically you can get away with
about 35 to 40 dollars worth of product to clean up both cases that doesn’t
include the bigger wheel that’s a little more expensive nor does it include the
tools although these aren’t too spendy the Dremel is around 60 and the die
grinder is 50 all right it’s a couple days later and look what we have here in
this case turned out gorgeous Josh did an incredible job blasting it every
little nook and cranny inside and out is clean just completely spotless and I
don’t really think the video does it justice either this thing is perfectly
smooth and shiny just seeing this thing really makes me want to get a wet
blaster now you can see the difference on the inside not that it really matters
that much compared to the other case this one is dull and still kind of
stained up inside whereas this one is perfectly clean it’s always nice to
start with a completely clean slate thought I’d be a good time to compare
and contrast blasted versus brushed see there’s a little bit of difference there
the Blasted is definitely I would say it’s more consistent the brushed has
more shine to it I guess it all depends on your personal preference I know some
people prefer the blasted look others prefer the brushed look and some people
like just a plain old dull edge aluminum look now personally I’m a sucker for the
brushed look looks more trick more like a factory part the vapor blasted look is
more like the OEM style but one thing you can’t ignore about vapor blasting is
how much better it works at getting in all those nooks and
crannies gets everything perfectly clean and consistent and that’s something a
little bit harder to do when you’re brushing so now you guys have a pretty
good idea of what the three different styles look like make your decision
based off of that I showed you how to brush the aluminum showed you how to
edge it although that one doesn’t look very good and now you know what vapor
blasting looks like so if you want your parts vapor blasted whether that’s a
crankcase clutch cover swing arm frame anything aluminum josh is the guy to go
you he did an incredible job turn it around really quick and just absolutely
killed it on this one so I will put his Instagram down below even if you guys
just want to look at shiny parts all day definitely go hit him up go give him a
follow he’s cranking out parts that looked just like this day in and day out
alright so now I’ve got a dilemma here got the cylinder back from repair as you
guys remember it had some detonation damage up here they went through and
fixed all that that was a Power seal welded it up replated it looks
absolutely freakin incredible brand new basically but now I want the cylinder to
look just like the cases I want everything to match so I’m kind of
thinking this part would be pretty tough to brush I honestly would rather just
have it vapor blasted and call it a day so I’m gonna send this thing out to Josh
he’s gonna blast it should have sent it the first time around but it is gonna be
looking just as good as the crankcase if I were to do it all over again
personally what I would do is sand out all the scratches on the cases like it
did send them out for vapor blasting and then do a brush finish on top of that
it’s gonna be much easier to get that nice brush finish when you already have
a clean service to work from I think vapor blasting is definitely the way to
go on cases and cylinders there’s absolutely no denying how well it works
and then if you want a brushed finish you can just go on top of the vapor
blasting with a wheel or a brush and give it that look you desire which is
what I’m gonna do now with the left case gonna give it a brush to match the right
case but I need to send the cylinder out to Josh I cannot wait to get it back and
see how frickin shiny its gonna be holy nuts guys I do not even know what
to say just look at it it’s probably even better than I expected but the
vapor blasting definitely made all the difference there went to bed I’ll get it
that clean without the blasting so after the blasting I just went through and hit
it with the die grinder of the cleaning wheel on there and then did a hand buff
and when your hand buffing it or using the cleaning wheel there you want to go
in the same direction I go the long way across the crankcase that is just
freakin epic and I’m pumped and better yet it matches up perfectly with the
right case it doesn’t get any better than that
so as you’ll notice there’s a few things I need to touch up here gasps of the
surfaces I need a sand see what else need to pop in bearings actually most
importantly I am going to protect these cases from corroding or getting stained
I put so much work into him I’ve never really had a problem with it on my 125
or 250 they are perfectly shiny still but with this set I want to try it
something new and you guys will be seeing that in the next video and for
you guys with the good eye you might have noticed I got some Krusty frickin
bolts holding this thing together so I will be replacing all the engine
hardware in the next video as well so stay tuned let’s take a little break
from polishing I’ve got something really cool to show you guys I know a lot of
you have been hyped about lately it is the release of the prime hoodies been
working on these for probably like six months now but here they are so it’s
like a dark charcoal color like a gray with a black 3d embroidered logo really
cool looking these things are very comfortable and warm they fit great I
promise you guys will not be disappointed
think I nailed it with these ones now my goal with these was obviously to have
something comfortable and warm but have a color that doesn’t show dirt or grime
when you’re working the shop or even going for a trail ride and then have a
material and design that’s gonna last a long time and make sure your
money is well-spent now these hoodies are completely custom designed for you
guys I didn’t just take someone else’s hoodie and slap my logo on it months and
months of testing went into these as you can see this is my own branded hoodie so
if you guys are interested in checking these out they will be over at primum
XCOM I’ll also have them linked down below I’ve got a few more aluminum
pieces here that’ll be cleaning up now the clutch cover is actually magnesium
I’m curious how that will clean up on the buffer with those cleaning wheels
water pump and actually all these parts I will be doing Sarah code on but some
of these have Nicks and scrapes that I want to clean up just kind of smooth out
before I throw some seracote down and then the flywheel I’m just gonna clean
up the corrosion on this doesn’t necessarily need to be coated with
anything if it’s underneath the flywheel cover with a good gasket it shouldn’t
have any problem corroding so I’m gonna get to you cleaning this stuff up so I’ve got the clutch cover all
stripped down to the bare magnesium I’m surprised this magnesium actually shines
that pretty good so in some of these tighter areas I used a dremel
scotch-brite attachment as you can see the finish is pretty inconsistent it
doesn’t look that great and there’s tons of pits and scratches on the bottom side
of the cover so what I’m gonna do is bring this thing back over to the buffer
before I was using the finer wheel now I’m gonna go at it with the rougher
wheel to smooth some of these out and then finish it up with a finer wheel to
give it that nice consistent shine this is just insane guys there’s
absolutely no Knicks leftover in this cover it is crazy what those wheels will
do so I’ll show you kind of how is getting a consistent finish here I was
using the side of the wheel a lot if you use just the face of it you’ll actually
kind of warp or make dips in the surface there so on something with a big surface
area like this you want to use the side of the wheel as much as you can now
we’re going to give this cover a sweet finish with the finer wheel done buffing
with the fine pad looks pretty sweet nice and shiny but it is very
inconsistent on the face as you can see so I’m gonna finish it off with the fine
pad by hand and I’m gonna go let’s see here this is the top of the cover right
here so I am going to go from left to right so I’m gonna brush in this
direction here you don’t want to go up and down or swirl just go in one
direction and that will give it a really sweet finish this is just frickin sweet so consistent
and smooth all the way around I don’t even know if I want to put that on the
bike now the reason why I’m leaving this covered bare and not doing any type of
coding is because engine covers get a ton of wear when you’re riding the bike
obviously the boots are rubbing against the cover with dirt and all sorts of
abrasive material they’re scratches it up so whether you put powder coat or
seracote or anodizing except for harden passing all that stuff is gonna wear
right off and so with a bear cover nothing to wear off and when it gets
scratched it up just grab a pad give it a little cleanup and you are back to
looking like this and besides who doesn’t love the look of brushed
aluminum I think that’s as clean as it gets right there
now the next thing can be working on is smoothening out the scrapes on the
bottom of the water pump cover I don’t want those showing through when
I say are cut it and I’ll be using the coarse wheel on the buffer to clean this
up like always seem to get carried away and
start smoothing out every little pit and casting line but you know what looks
pretty good and it’s gonna look even better when it is sarah coded now it’s
on to cleaning up the flywheel looking good now this is kind of common sense
but whenever you’re doing any sort of grinding or sanding with metal you want
to wear some gloves a respirator that’s huge and some eye protection so don’t be
stupid guys now for the cylinder head I am going to replace this with an
aftermarket Fathead cylinder head billet one but just for the heck of it I’ll
clean up the detonation on the bottom side here it’s got some pitting inside
the combustion chamber and I’m just gonna turn it into a cool-looking
paperweight check out this beauty I love just
thinking around and seeing what I can do with the pads turned out pretty freakin
sweet now obviously at this point I can’t use the head any longer ground
down the dome pretty far to get rid of that detonation I mean I could have
fixed it up with some TIG welding but I was more so just seeing what I could do
with those pads so I’ve got a pretty cool paperweight now now the last thing
I’ll be shining up is the flywheel cover this is the original one off the bike
and notice that had a crack along with some jb weld repair so I won’t be using
that one but I found a different one here that’s in pretty good shape just
scratched it up and worn down it is magnesium like the clutch cover so it
should clean up really well so let’s get after it and I just can’t get enough of this
brush finish I can do this stuff all day long this one turned out really good
pretty much perfect got a nice camera one of them focus on it come on now yeah
this one took about 30 minutes to do I end up having to bust out the rubber
sanding drum to remove the lettering I think it looks a lot cleaner without
anything on there just a nice clean simple look now we’re gonna pair up the
flower cover with the clutch cover that’s about as good as it gets right
there guys man these parts look sweet for being 20
years old guys I can’t stress this enough if you’re gonna be doing any sort
of sanding or polishing on metal or sanding off paint you gotta protect
yourself so first off wear a respirator with good filters on them these are P
100 rated so that essentially means these trap 99.9% of the particles fuse
gases they are a really good investment actually these are only like 20 bucks
the respirator itself this one is super nice has got high protection that is
HUGE if you want to go something cheaper you get to get some like that and a
smaller respirator and then definitely wear some gloves and if you’re gonna be
doing a lot of sanding wear long sleeve or a sweatshirt and take it off before
you go inside also if you’re hardcore about the stuff I would recommend
getting a exhaust fan or some sort of ventilation that is HUGE but guys take
it from me I was extremely sick a couple years ago with cancer so I definitely
don’t mess around when it comes to this stuff it honestly
really isn’t that expensive to protect yourself you can get a cheaper
respirator some glasses and gloves maybe get a setup like this one here you can
get that the gloves glasses for under like 40 or 50 bucks very wise investment
and as far as the filters go these are around 15 or 20 bucks and I would change
them out every month or every other month depending on how much you’re
sanding or painting like always I will have every single thing I use throughout
the video link down below in the description one more thing before I go
as many of you know I am doing a giveaway with this bike the 2002 armed
50 that I’m building currently so when it’s all finished up I’ll be giving it
away completely free all you have to do is sign up is go down below in the
description hit that first link and that is it I want to give a big thank you to
you for watching the video I really appreciate it
I’ve got some big stuff on the channel coming soon I’m gonna be doing some
coatings rebuilding the engine lots of great things come in with the rme so
definitely hit that subscribe button down below
ring the bell and I will see you in a video coming soon
keep her prime

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Can do a DIY vapor blaster with a HF sand blaster (Just FYI). Love the work, love watching your videos. They motivate me to work on my stuff.
    Also, is your heated parts washer / parts washer cabinet both DIY'ed?

  2. I really hope you and anyone that sands aluminum dry is wearing a respirator good enough to catch the particles. Al stays in your lungs and causes nasty problems down the road in your life like ingesting lead or breathing asbestos

  3. Those cases are so unique, love how they turned out, definitely looking forward to see what you can do with a Vapor Blaster

    Keep it Pryme!

  4. I love those sanding/flappy wheels, they eat alloy,I clean car alloys with them removing all the curb strikes, they don't mess around,using a 500w hammerdrill.

  5. Cameron, Incredible as usual. Just curious what your thoughts are between Glass Bead blasting vs Vapor Blasting.
    I have been using Medium Glass Bead for my Bike parts with nice results.
    Any Vapor Baster kits u recommend.
    Thanks !!

  6. I'm sure this takes a whole lot of time. Then when done why would you want to even ride the dang thing. Not for me.

  7. Ok it looks good but seriously dude, unless you put something over it to protect the metal, it'll rust, and then your transfercase is fucked

  8. Looks great!!!! Can’t wait to see the engine together. Going to look amazing. Can’t wait for the next video. But till then off to order a hoodie. Thanks Cam

  9. Noo I thought instantly that you wouldn’t retain the Suzuki logo on the flywheel cover woulda looked clean if you could have! Your build though so do as you wish looks good dude

  10. Vapour blasting also 'seals' the aluminum making it less porous and more resistant to staining etc. Much easier to keep clean.

  11. Guys, seriously, clear coat using POR15, have a look … My bike is COVERED in this stuff…. It's simply amazing and your new shiny engine will not discolor or corrode at all.

  12. Hey Cameron Niemela, I am from New York City. I am a hands on guy. I ride a Kawasaki KLR650 adventure bike, only because it's a concrete jungle. I'm inspired by your videos to break down my bike and rebuild it just to have everything new or working properly. Do you have any experience on adventure bikes and if you do can we get some videos on those.

  13. you know your the only youtuber ive seen (probably not the only one on the site) that promotes safety equipment when working around stuff, and i love it,

  14. Vibratory tumbler my man (600DB Mr Deburr) , removes all the burs and loose casting marks and polishes the entire surface without having to get out the dremel and hit every nook and cranny.

  15. Nehmen Sie Kontakt mit Fred auf, wenn Sie verdächtig sind, gespielt zu werden, und Sie keinen Beweis dafür haben, welche Informationen Ihr Verlobter / Freund / Ihre Freundin für iPhone / Android aus Nachrichten, Konten in sozialen Medien (Facebook, iMessages, Wechat, Zunder usw.) stammen. WHATSAPP +1 5182175690

  16. Man i wish i can do what you do with your bikes but I dont have the equipment or tools haha i really love watching your vidz.. your work turns out not just look new but you make it amazing polish finish nice more power to you

  17. do you know what your buddy used as far as the slurry mix on the vapor blast? They did come out amazing I made my own for like 50 bucks and it did a beautiful job on my subframe Radiator Braces Linkage and some other stuff. Great video as always

  18. Really nice job. It's more like art the way you restore these bikes. I myself have restored many toys over the years but not to your level. I've learned a lot watching your vids. Thx man.

  19. Brushed finish looks great! To get straighter lines dont rub back and forth, just rub one direction, like top to bottom, pick up the pad, and start from the top again. It turns out alot better normally

  20. Trying to do my bike? I have no knowledge of tearing it apart and putting it back together. No one in my are does this type of thing. Well, unless it's a Harley… Serious about this. Thanks for the videos

  21. I cant wait for the fork rebuild.. Blew my fork seals on my '13 rmz 250 the other day, is the same fork type I think.

  22. Banyak di negaraku seperti teknik diatas…namanya poles mesin dan hasilnya anda bisa berkaca alias mengkilap seperti cermin….🤣😎…meskipun yang bersangkutan tidak ngerti bahasaku

  23. Hey Cameron! When we will see you riding your CR 250R? I guess lots of fans would like to see you ripping it on your track, or with other buddies 😉

  24. Your videos helped me out with my first mini dirtbike. I purchased a ttr-230 and a crf150r with intentions on entering the bike build contest. I had to make sure the 150r was running before starting the project and ended up shattering the top of my tibia during one of the first test rides New Year’s Eve having a little more fun than I had originally planned lol. 2 plates and 12 screws later! Just want to say how much I appreciate the videos and that I can’t wait to get back to it.

  25. 5:16 [A few different ways to restore the shine.] Another way would be to toss it into a tumble polisher and enjoy a cold beverage while a machine does all of the work.

  26. Question: is it possible to buff/sand down an engine or crank case too much where the tolerances are messed up and parts no longer sit flush?

  27. Hey, Cameron thanks for the heads up on the oven tip awesome wish I found this sooner.
    Thanks for taking the time to share this with us.
    Play Safe From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.

  28. Do you ever run into the issue of the crankshaft feeling tight or binded after you re install in the cases? I’ve had this issue and didn’t know how common or natural it was because of how free it rolls over before disassembly maybe the difference in a worn engine and a new tight one? Just figured I’d ask a guy who was built a few more then myself.thanks in advance

  29. I appreciate your effort but remember those bikes are built for riding in the dirt and not only showroom objects 😉 But great work 👍👌

  30. Hi Cameron, I've been following your channel for quite some time, I would love if you could do an instructional video on the 2013 KX450F KYB air forks. How to rebuild them and maybe setting them up for a rider. Keep up the awesome work!

  31. Hey Cameron, I found a 02 CRF450 with low compression and won’t start. The seller agreed to $550 as he believes it needs a new top end? He said the compression is at 70psi. What could be the causes of this? An easier fix possibly than a new top end? Thanks I’m advance!

  32. I haven't personally used the stuff, but a builder friend uses Sharkhide marine metal protectant on his cleaned up metal. It is more of a liquid rub-on product. Pricey stuff but he has been happy with it. Thanks for sharing. The use of the flapper and scuffing bits is a game-changing information.

  33. Fantastic video.
    Im your fan now
    Subscribe my small channel too please
    Keep the awesome job always
    Best regards
    God bless

  34. You might want to try the "Purple De-greaser" from Home Depot. I use it on my Laser Engraver cutting table, and it works like nothing I have ever seen. You will want to wear gloves, and mix it to 30% solution with water. Let the parts soak in it for half an hour, and you should be able to squirt them clean with a hose. In very tough cases you may have to use a soft brush. I used an old electric toothbrush and it worked like a charm. This stuff is potent, so make sure you rinse thoroughly!

  35. Is it possible to build an early 2000s dirt bike completely from oem ordered parts? It would be expensive but how crazy would that be?

  36. Man I was watching the majority of the video with a smile on my face. Can’t wait to see the finished engine! I have a 2002 rm250 myself.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *