Mountain Bike Tubeless Tyre Set Up 101 | GMBN How To

Mountain Bike Tubeless Tyre Set Up 101 | GMBN How To

– Tubeless tyres are a
really great thing to have on a mountain bike. Great upgrade to do but there are plenty of things to consider when setting your bike up tubeless. So here is the GMBN tech guide to everything you need to know about tubeless mountain bike tyres. (echoing sounds) So there are various thing
you’re gonna need to consider when setting your bike up tubeless. So let’s start with the wheels. So firstly, you’re gonna need to decide what sort of rims you’ve got or if you’re gonna buy some new rims, which ones to factor in, and how to get them
sealed ready for tubeless. So some wheels, like
this particular set here, have a sealed rim base, just because the design of the wheel is basically referred to UST that’s Universal Sealed Tubeless. And it’s a system developed by Mavic and it’s a very good system for tubeless because you do not need to
use any sort of rim tape to seal off that rim. It’s already sealed. Another thing you need to factor in here is which type of valve
you have to use on there. But most rims you see these days will use some sort of taping system. And the reason for that is the rims are cheaper to
manufacture like this. They’re easier to repair like
this in most circumstances because you got easy access
to a spoke in the nipple through that hole in the rim. Just have to decide how
you’re gonna tape it. Now there are a bunch of
official taping systems that you can get in conversion kits or that come with wheels. This particular set of DT wheels comes with their own specific rim tape on there and that is ready made to
set the bike up tubeless. You just simply put the valve in, put your tire on, fill it with sealant, and you’re good to go. Just consider that. So if you’re gonna tape
this stuff yourself, you got two options to do. You can do the official taping kit; we can do it the ghetto way. And the ghetto way,
the best option we use, is using simple gorilla tape. All you need to do is
run this around the rim and seal it. Now the other advantage
of using gorilla tape is it’s cheap as well,
unlike the proper kits. Don’t get me wrong, the
proper kits are excellent and they work first time every time. There’s a bit more sort of a hack to do the gorilla tape version, but sometimes you’re gonna get a tire that doesn’t fit particularly
well on that rim. And with the gorilla tape, you can just do another
run around the rim. You can make it a tighter fit which means it’s more
likely to seal first time. Next up, you’re gonna need to select some decent quality valves
that fit your rims correctly. If you’re buying a
tubeless conversion kit, the kit will come with tape sealant, and of course the valves. If you’re just gonna
convert something yourself whether you do it the gorilla tape option or whatever other option you can use, you’re gonna need to select the correct ones to suit your rims. Now notice on these three
valves I have in my hand they’re all slightly
different shapes at the top and that’s so they can fit
different style profile rims. Take note of the profile inside your rim and make sure you select
the appropriate valve. You want the best possible seal because valves can leak. If that happens, you won’t be able to get your bike set up tubeless but it does mean that over time you’re gonna slightly lose
some pressure from here. What you want is the valve
area to be as clear as possible a) for being able to seat
your tires effectively b) being able to change your air pressure. Next thing to factor in with your valves is to make sure the valves you select have removable valve cores. Now the core, if I just
use this little tool here, the core is the inside part of the valve. It’s that piece there. And the reason you wanna
be able to remove that is these do clog up from time to time and if you’ve got one on your
bike that’s not removable, it’s gonna be really hard to
make your whole valve system work efficiently all the time. The ones you can remove it
means you can remove this, you can de clog the actual valve stem, and it means you can wash these and make sure they work properly. The other reason for using this system is you can put sealant
directly into the valve stem straight into the tyre, without the need of
interferring with the tyre fit. Next up, you’re gonna need to select some sort of tyre sealant. Now the common options these days are the milkier colored liquid ones. Now the idea is the air
comes rushing into the tyre through the slash or whatever
it is in the tyre case. The particles in this fill that void and then it starts bunching up
as lumps of rubber and seals. So this stuffs really good and there’s a whole bunch of
different ones on the market. So the originator was the
Stan’s No Tubes sealant. There’s also Joe’s No Flat. There’s Continental revo. There’s Orange seal. There’s a whole number out there and they’re all very good at what they do. Now one thing is important to
say about all tyre sealants is you don’t want to be mixing
and matching tyre sealants together in one tyre. Now I’m sure there are some
combinations you can do but what you don’t want
to do is mix something let’s say for example
Stan’s with Orange Seal because apparently that can
start curing that rubber. The process of that will start going off. You don’t wanna mess around with that. You don’t want it to emulsify. You don’t want it to separate or split or anything like that. Whatever tyre sealant you can select, stick to one tyre sealant per tyre. So when you’re putting
you’re sealant into a tyre regardless if it is a new
tyre or an older tyre, you wanna make sure the inside of the tyre is as clean as it can be. Now I still wanna blank older tires and one that’s been heavily used is clear enough to put sealant in there. What you’re looking for is something that doesn’t look like this. So this tyre as you can see
has remnants of old sealant all clogged up in there. You don’t want that stuff
floating around inside your tyre. This can start clogging things up. You don’t really want that so make sure that you scrub
the inside of your tires. Just use a decent washing brush that you would use to wash your bike with. Some hot soappy water is what you need to get all that stuff out there. Let your tyres dry and you’re good to go. Now next up is making sure
you got some quality tyres. Now these days most tyres
you get from Small Bay or Maxess, all those sort of brands, are tubeless ready. Lucky for us, we’re
running Continental tires. They’re our brand sponsor here at GMBN and their latest tyres
are especially good. The casing on them is fantastic
for setting up tubeless. They seem to go up touch wood first time. They’ve certainly gone up first time every time I’ve put them on. I’ve got them on four tyres
on a bike at the moment. They’ve all been up and I’ve
not needed to use compressor but we shall see in a
minute when I inflate them. But making sure you’ve got
a decent tubeless ready tyre is really important whatever
brand you guys are gonna use. A tyre that’s not
completely tubeless ready won’t really be sealed on the insides. So you’ll be relying on the sealant itself to seal in the air, as opposed to just sealing
holes it makes in there. Now whilst this does work very well and that is the basis of the
original conversion kits, it does mean that you’re
gonna get some seepage through the sideholes of the tyre if it’s not completely sealed tyre. Now once this is okay ’cause it will work, you’re gonna need to put a
lot more sealant in there to get a good seal and it will take up to two
or three days sometimes for it to stop seeping and make that correct seal on the inside. So I wouldn’t skimp on tyres. Get yourself some decent quality tyres. If you’re in doubt
about which ones to use, see what your friends use or see what other locals
use in the conditions and you’ll find that’s gonna
be a good basis to start. Now for inflating the tyre itself you’re gonna need some sort of pump. Now these days, setting
up tubeless tyres is mostly a lot easier than it used to be. When there wasn’t so many
tubeless tires around and you were just using a conversion kit to turn a non tubeless
tyre into a tubeless one. That could become really messy
and a real pain in the ass. But these days, you
get these sort of pumps that have got a compressor
based chamber built onto them and you can inflate this
separately to inflate the tyre and then you can open the valve and let all of the air out in one hit. Inflating that tyre much
like using a compressor in a workshop. It’s a really really good system. Of course, you don’t always need it. You might be one of the lucky ones that’s got a good set of tyres
and a good rim combination that pops out straight away. Now CO2 cartridges can be very helpful for seating tubeless tyres. But you do have to be aware
that on some sealants– I mean Continental recommends
that you don’t use CO2 with their sealant and same with Stan’s but there are other ones
that are safe for that. The reason they suggest
that you don’t use it is it can prematurely start
that sort of curing process on the inside of the tyre and start forming large
lumps of rubber in there. And if they’re sort of forming
those large lumps of rubber on the inside of the tyre, you guessed if, it means there’s less of those smaller particles which can seal up the holes. So it’s not gonna be as effective. Now the next option is the use
one of these little gizmos. Now there’s loads of different options available on the market and
it’s basically a mini compressor that you inflate yourself. Its got a pressure guage on there. Its got an air valve on the top and you simply inflate it
within the band it tells you to, you attach it to your tyre,
and then hit the button and it unloads all the air
straight back into your tyre and inflates it. Something that’s really good about these is they’re really good
to travel with as well because they’re quite portable. So if you’re on the road a lot, something like this might
be really good for you. So now it’s time to show
you a couple of methods for inflating your tyre. I’m gonna show you the dry version which I think is the
better option of doing, then I’m gonna show you
the traditional wet version where you pour the fluid
straight into the tyre so you have both bases covered because I’m sure some of
you will try either option. The reason it’s called a dry seal is you’re not using tyre sealant in there. It’s actually a wet method because we’re gonna use
some warm soappy water to help the tyre side walls pop out. So for this method, you
put the tyre onto the rim then you get some warm foammy soappy water and apply it to the
side walls and the rims and then you simply inflate it. You’ll seat it, you’ll
hear that classic pop. (tyre pops) As the beads are seated in
the actual hooks on the rims then when you remove the pump, the air’s gonna come
rushing back out again because we’re doing this
with no valve cord in there. But there’s nothing to worry about because you’re then going to
put the sealant in afterwards knowing that the tyre is
hopefully already sealed in place. So I’m just gonna screw
this onto the valve. Now I’m simply just gonna scrub
that straight into the tyre. So the last thing you need to do now is just put the valve core
in before inflating the tyre. Note that I don’t need to do
this with the valve core out because it’s already seated. So the hard bit is done. So I’m just gonna
tighten the valve core up using the valve core removal tool. Now this is an after
market valve core remover. These are well worth having; they’re very easy to use. But quite often you will see one of these in a packet with the valves. Now this is DT1 and this is
a little valve core remover. They are really easy to lose or just throw away because
you don’t know what they are. Let me just demonstrate how these work. Just pops over the end of the valve and same thing as a miniature spanner. Put another core back on. So well worth keeping those things. So now its just a case
of pumping up the tyre using your floor standing
pump or retract pump as they’re often called. Put your preferred pressure in there. Personally, I like to
inflate to about 40 psi. So that’s 40 pounds and leave
it overnight before I ride just to make sure it’s 100% sealed and doing it’s job correctly. So that is successfully
set up using the dry method of inflating first to seat then
putting your sealant inside. Now it’s not always this easy. This is a good combination. The DC rim in this case
quite a wide one 35 mil with a mountain king
Continental tyre on there. That’s a good combo by all accounts. So this has gone up. But quite often you’ll find a tyre it will inflate but it might
lose some pressure overnight. Now if you’ve got one
of those sort of options pump it up 40 or 50 psi, make sure you slosh the sealant around on the inside to coat both sides and leave it on its side, I recommend using a bucket, and just let it just rest and the sealant will take
care of any small holes or any parts that aren’t sealed correctly. Might need to top off with some air and then hopefully, you’re good to go. So having done the dry method where you inflate the tyre first and seat it with no sealant in there, I’m gonna show you the other method and hopefully, this goes to plan. But if not, you will see why
this is a messier method to do. It’s just a case of getting
one half of the tyre onto the rim, and then you wanna be putting
some sealant into the tyre before you finish putting the tyre onto the wheel completely. Make sure you’re sealant
is really well shaken up so the particles are
suspended in the fluid. And then pour in the amount
you need for your size tyre and then spend that ’round and then start getting
the rest of the tyre beat back in place. Now is can be messy. You see see its already start to drip on the floor a little bit. It’s horrible stuff because it dries and it’s quite sticky. I’m gonna get this seated. So this time I’m gonna
use the compressor chamber on the pump so I have
to inflate that first and then I’ll release all the air at once and then fingers crossed, it seals. If it doesn’t, a lot of this
stuff sprays everywhere. Okay are we ready? Three, two one. (high pitched air sound) And we got lucky. So this time, it’s gone
perfectly according to plan but it doesn’t always happen like this. And as you can see, it’s
definitely a mess here method. I’ve got to clean the tyre; I’ve got to clean the floor here as well. Okay, so there we go, successfully
set up the tubeless tyres with two different methods there. So we got lucky this particular time but it’s not always like that. So like I said to you in the
early section of the video, it’s all about the fit
of the tyre on the wheel. You can get a slightly better fit by running another level
of tape around there. That really does help and
doing the dry fit method really does help as well because you can be certain
that something’s gonna work before you waste sealant and
get the stuff everywhere. It’s definitely the better way to do it. Now tubeless tyres are great. They work pretty well; they seal up thorns pretty
well while you’re riding. But what happens if
you get more than that. What sort of punctures are gonna stop you? So if you slash the tyre carcass, there’s a few different things you can do. If it’s on the main part of the tyre, you can use one of these little things. They’re called tyre plugs. Come from the motor bike and
sort of all terrain world. And basically, you load on of
those onto this pronged fork, you ream out the hole and then basically you stab it into place. However, that’s not the full time solution and at some point will
push that back out again. So what you can do then is
do an actual tyre repair job. But if you slash a tyre side wall, it’s nearly impossible
to actually fix the tyre in a normal way. So there is a really good hack for this and it’s what I recommend doing. Take to the tyres side wall
with a needle and thread. Get really good, strong
leather based needle so you can get through the tyre carcass and really strong thread. Stitch this tyre back together and then on the inside,
I then patched it up usually a tractor vulcanizing
patch in this particular case. They’re heavy duty rubber and you gotta make sure
that you sit this overnight so it’s completely set and sealed. And then on the outside, I used a heavy duty vulcanizing glue. So this stuff’s really tough and it’s really flexible as well so it makes a good seal over the top. Now this tyre will inflate
tubeless again now. So it’s not completely wasted. Of course this isn’t the
sort of the ideal situation but you can fix a tyre like
this and get more use out of it. So don’t think that by slashing your tyre, you’re gonna completely bend the thing. You can still use those
tyres and save some money. Now of course on a trail situation, if you do that sort of thing, you need to keep riding, I do recommend you carry
an inner tube with you. So of course, kind of a bit funny having to carry an inner tube when you’ve gone to the
point of doing tubeless but they’re good old faithful and they will get you
back on the trail again until you can get home
and fix it properly. So you still get a second chance. So there you go that is everything really about tubeless tyres and set
up that you guys need to know. For a couple more useful
tech videos, click down here for three ways to join the chain. Of course the optimal
way is using a split link but there are other ways you can do this when you’re out on a trail. Click down there for that video. Very useful that one. And to find out everything about greases much in the same vein as this video, all about greases lubricants,
compounds, antiseas. All that kind of stuff, click down there. Tells you exactly where
you need to be using that stuff on a bike, if you even need to own that stuff. As always click on the
round globe to subscribe. I’ve got new content for
you every single week. Share it around, tell
your friends about us. And if you like the video,
or found it helpful, give us a thumbs up.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. hey guys I use the tubeless system for years with many tires from different manufactures but a month ago it happened …
    I wanted to try the speed king from Conti for a quick strava segment on my hardtail^^. The front was ok but the rear tire kind of exploded from the wheel. I was covered in notubes milk and had a tinnitus like after a brutal concert. I don't no maybe it was a lemon tire. I had to wash my face and arms 10 times with soap and brush the milk is so gluey … Since I experienced this I always use safety goggles and ear protection.

  2. Honestly, there is an even better way to set it up for both ghetto tubeless and TR ready wheels. You don't even need to use soapy water ever. Maybe I should make a video on that lol.

  3. Thank you SO SO much!! Just bought a conversion kit – but have been just sitting staring at my fatbike (…then the parts and bottles, then back to the bike) for about a week. Now I know how to approach this! You´re the best!

  4. I've been gotten two snake bikes in my rear tube since getting my first mountain bike about a month ago. Does anybody have any tips? Is my tire pressure too low or do I just have terrible technique (maybe both)? Also, is this something going tubless might solve?

  5. Definitely remove the valve cores, Use an air compressor. Inflate and set the bead first with no sealant, add the sealant after setting the bead. There doesn’t seem to be an easier way, especially when the tires are super tight to get on.

  6. Thanks again for that nice video. Now i wanna see your haircut tutorial please please please! 😉

  7. Doddy mate the part of the pumps you keep refering to as compressor are called cheaters great videos tho 🙂

  8. I am thinking of converting to tubeless but have one big query. I live abroad over the winter and leave my bike in the garage for 6 months; would all the sealant collect at the bottom of the wheel over time meaning i would have to do the whole thing again every year or does the sealant need replacing periodically anyway ?

  9. I have so far converted 6 wheels to tubeless with gorilla tape and orange seal (best sealant ever) and all of them fully sealed first try and i was using a 5€ supermarket hand pump

  10. I had a fight fitting some new tubeless tyres to my wife's bike earlier tonight – the new Schwalbes I bought her are fractionally looser on the rims than the worn out Hutchisons I'm replacing. I got the back seated eventually but couldn't get enough air in the front to make it pop despite using a compressor. I'll be having another look at them tomorrow so I'll try adding a second layer of gorilla tape and see if that does the trick. Cheers for the hint.

  11. #askgmbn
    I bought recently a pair of tubeless ready rims and failed to mount tubelees tires on. Even failed to seat the tires with tubes properly. No pop sound up to 4,5 BAR. Montage fluid was used. Tried different tires from two well known manufacturer, but nothing helps. What's wrong?

  12. I have the stock specialised 650b tyres and rims should they fit well for tubeless or should I get some new rims and tyres.

  13. At the end u advise tocarry a tube (old reliable) with u if u get a flat out onthe trail.
    So i guess ill go tubless for when my bike is in my basement..
    What a waste of cash…

  14. old video,but I had great luck my first-time setting up tubeless..used a track pump…(my compressor is so loud for the sleeping neighbors)it's tight ,its sealed…But I didn't get that satisfying 'PoP' is this ok..???

  15. Hi Doddy ..
    I watched your videos and I respect your good job doing it to help us dealing with everything about bicycles..!
    I would like to ask your advice please for something i want to do if it is work successfully or not :
    I have a Trekking bicycle 28" tires and i want to change them with a Mountain Bike tires not completely with the Metal things but only upper tires with mountain bike so that i can ride it in snowing days easily without slipping or through sands & rocks..!

    So what do you think about it is it possible or it can't be done by your experience?
    Thanks a lot…

  16. You asked for a hack… here's one without having to buy an expensive pump or find a mate with a compressor. I use a 7 L garden sprayer as long as it has a safety valve it's safe to do works a treat… check out the video below and then my comment to see how to do it

    This sprayer should do it £7.99

  17. Tubless tires on a bike are a waste of time. Just carry a spare tube/ patches. A flat on tubeless tire is nothing short of a train wreck.

  18. Great video!
    Conversion kits suck.
    If you want to go tubeless, just get a new set of tubeless rims and tires, or, if your bike is old enough and doesn't have neato stuff like tubeless, hydraulic disc brakes or a 1x setup up front, maybe consider a new bike?

  19. Thanks for the video! I've just set-up my two wheels tubeless. Gorilla tape x 4 wraparounds was necessary to get my 'tubeless ready' tyres to seal (Maxis Ardent with stock Alexrims on a Voodoo Bizango from Halfords in the UK). I'm not convinved they are seated properly (no ping-pops when inflated). Got both tyres up to ~50psi. Will leave overnight to see if they retain any pressure.

    HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: I purchased a track-pump with a holding tank (holds 250psi but not sure of the volume) to do this. Absolutely no way I would have been able to do this with just an ordinary track pump (don't even think about trying a hand pump).

  20. Tried to install a WTB nano 29×2.1 tcs on a Stans Crest Rim 29er
    tires have been mounted before , would not FIT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!bead too STIFF even tried to work the bead into the Rim channel and work it around almost lost my Nails !!!
    gave up and mounted a WTB 29×2.2 Slick tire WIRE bead even that was TITE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  21. Just set my wheels up tubeless but the front wheel isn't sealing properly around the valve. I'm using the same valve and rim as the rear wheel which has sealed fine. Any tips?

  22. Schwalbe tires seem to only go on with an air compressor. I have the same mini air canister as the the one shown hear. Have only one gotten a tire to dry mount once with Schwalbe. Maybe a different brand like Continental or Specialized are easier to mount tubeless. Valve core removal is definitely required. Nice demo on this!

  23. hi, im currently running Shwalbe Bike park with Stans S1 tubeless rims. Does anyone know if these tyres are tubeless compatible. the wb site gives no direction? Thank you in advance

  24. Great video Doddy very informative.
    I'll have to check if my DT Swiss rims on my 2008 Stumpjumper Fsr Pro are tubeless rims

  25. Run over some jumping cholla do jump off your tires cacti love tubless tire Nobby Nics two flats same day time 😁😫 little peice of glass… make better inner tube liners or Kevlar tires with Ripstop Good luck toodles someone please invent safety run flats tubes for the love money …. tubes? Or Spare tire idea for back up Ride hard Die by 🐻 snack mountain 🦁 💩

  26. I just went through hell and back trying to convert my tires with a diy tubeless conversion. I finally got it to seal and work properly. I ended up using a normal compressor and shrader valve chuck directly on the open presta valve stem without a valve core in it. That finally got my tire seated. Once I got it seated it was still leaking a bit, but I just let the sealant do its work and would put a few more psi into the tire and shake it up. This process helped me a lot. Thanks for all the tips! Soapy water was a huge help in getting the tire seated. Just glad it worked.

  27. #askgmbntech hi doddy,im currently using scott scale 980 with nx 1×11 gear.i want my bike to be lighter,also considering to upgrade to gx eagle or xt m8000,which one is lighter in that groupset. Thank you and gobless.pls shout out my group CHANGWON BIKERS in KOREA.

  28. I know that this is an old video but can anyone help me. I was wondering if after you seat the tire and put the sealant in do you have to use a pressure canister on your bike pump to put air in the tire or can you manually pump it up?

  29. One simple question: Why does no bicycle manufacturer sell bicycles wihout tubes? Are they stupid or are you stupid?

  30. If you have trouble seating the tyre for the first time, USE A TUBE, inflate as normal and pop the bead into place. Once you have that done, crack only ONE side of the tyre back off the rim, remove the tube and secure your tubeless valve in place.

    Having one side of the tyre already seated makes it significantly easier to seat the rest of the tyre again later, especially if you're not using a compressor.

    Reseat the tyre without the tube or sealant just to make sure you can, then either crack the bead to pour your sealant in, or feed it through the valve stem.

  31. Tubeless is crap to much stuffing around I can change a tube tyre in five minutes and it's easier 2 adjust the air in it

  32. Watching this looking for info on No 2 sons tubeless puncture and how to repair it. Very helpful video, but why would anyone bother with tubeless?? All that hassle with sealant and gorilla tape and large pumps and punctures and plugging kits, etc. A tyre with a tube and a simple (£2) puncture repair kit seems like a much better idea when 6 miles out in the middle of nowhere with a flat….

  33. This is one of the finest and most articulate videos I have seen whilst seeking knowledge on a particular subject. A+ Thank you for posting.

  34. Doddy and GMBN crew, Thanks for all that you guys do… a bang up job keeping us informed on all this how stuff!
    You’ll forgive a little constructive criticism. For all work being done with compressed air, one really should wear eye protection. For so many reasons.
    Keep up the good work guys! And thanks!

  35. Do you need to use the sealant? I have a first generation UST setup and I've never needed to use sealant. Mavic ex823 rims with 2.5×26 Minion DHF UST version front and rear. I usually lose some air over a week but I just top up with the air compressor and I'm good to go.

  36. I have some magic marys but cant seem to get them to tru up properly they stay up just cant get rid of the wobble help please people

  37. Ignorant question if you don't mind…Does that liquid sloshing around inside the tire cause any kind of instability, especially at higher speeds?

  38. never switching to tubeless because im not rich, you got flat on tubeless you need to buy a new tire that costs 60-70$ but when you are running tube you just buy 7$ tube, simple

  39. The proliferation of tubeless tires and rims has hurt the sport of bicycling. Not everybody would prefer to use this method, but the manufacturers have all grouped together to the effect of rendering the method of using tubes to be obsolete. The ability to have a choice of quality non-tubeless rims and tires is diminishing. We would not need this video except that the construction of rims designed to be tubeless have a flat area just below the bead seat that is there to assist with the seating of the tire (with its sealant). Rims for tubed tires have a shallowing section here, and allow the bead to pull up right to the seat area. HOWEVER, THIS FLAT AREA IS THE CORE REASON THAT TIRES DO NOT SEAT. The problem is that the tires bead tends to stay in the channel where the spoke ferrules are, and not lay flat against the bead seat.

  40. Question: I want to buy light tyres that I like (with low weight and rolling resistance) 29" , that are supposedly TL (or TL ready) and still use them normally with tubes?

  41. Great video. Very practical advice along with great down to earth methods to salvage a tire in a bind. I'm impressed by your knowledge, experience and intelligence. Thank you!

  42. Good tip to do a dry fitting! As for all the new tire repair plugs, I don’t bother. I do like to repair new tires that got punctured and like your tips. Hopefully it work when the puncture is near the bead

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *