This is our Yamaha TTR225 over-center project. And what I’ve done, is taken the bearing apart. We cleaned them, then we repacked the bearings. Put the spacer and assembly back together. So now we got a very free flowing, clean set of wheel bearings. We’re ready to put the laces, the spokes back in the hub. Before I took this apart, Before I ever removed the first spoke. I took down some notes The outer circle holes closest to the outside. The spokes come out of them and go to the left. As looking at it from the top down. As you can see here I counted the number of non-associated spokes, that would go in between each one. I’ve also made lines on here. The marks that I’ve made would not be there If you are painting and going to refinish this hub. We’re going to reuse it as it is. You got what’s called an inner and outer spoke. Now, the idea behind this, is that this particular spoke here would come from the inside, and go through the hub and be able to. See the angle is sharper. It would be able to go around and bend back,. to the center of the hub Much like this right here. This is an outer spoke. in that it would come in like this right here. The idea being is that these are different is because they are asked to do different things. This is a factory set of spokes Before I took these out and removed them. I went in and counted them. I wanted to make absolutely sure we had the full set. And that they were the same correct length and everything. So, they matched up perfectly. one of the tricks I have I’m going to use small little wire ties. What I’m going to do here, I’m going to start dropping of the spokes. These are unique in that they all come from the same direction. Because we still have to put in our other spokes. We still have to be able to move around. All I’m doing is pulling the spokes up. and getting them flat. Now we’ve got to do the same thing from this side. What I’ve done here is that I’ve put the bottom though. Flipped it over. Try to put these on a horizontal plane So, now we can go in and start pairing them. And that’s were our tie straps come in All of our outer ones will have to go to the left. All of our inter ones will go to the right. So, what I’m doing is going ahead and getting them some what oriented. All the spokes in the outer circle went to the left. All of the inner spokes were going to the right. What I’m going to do now is pair them. The idea behind the wire straps, is that it helps hold my pairs. Every fifth one is my spokes. Here I’ve got the outer one headed to the left, I want one, two, three four my fifth one. And that tells me I’ve got it paired right. Obviously the outer spoke is on top of the inner spoke. My next one here. I’m going a one, two, three, four and it’s my fifth one. So I know I’ve got it in the right place. We’re going to do this all the way around. And then we’re going to the other side. All I’m doing is making the bottom ones flat again. We still have our pairing, and every-thing’s good. We are going to do exactly the same thing in this step. Let’s take all of our outside spokes. And let’s move them to the left. Now, all of the inside ones will go to the right. Keeping in mind that the outer ones have to be on top. We never want to put an inside one over and above the outside. We might be ready now to start pairing them. We got this one here, we’re going to go one, two, three, four and five. So, we know this is the right pair, right here. One, two, three, four and five. I know this is the right pair. And I use pairing only in the sense, that those are the ones that intersect, over each other. It’s important because the spacing on the rim. And the angle with which the dimples will hold the rim. Are all keyed on having that in the right location. These are all going to be the same. The same five spacing. Now each rim can be different. We got our spoke assembly, I’m going to go around and drop a little bit of lubricant. Using stainless, which these are not. You have to us an anti-sieze The bands have done a couple of things for us. Not only have the keep our spokes and everything Kind of organized. They are also going to let us make the circle shorter. The significant and the reason for this is that we want to be able to put our rim down over this assembly of spokes. I don’t know of any directional marks or any thing like that on this rim. I’ve looked. It is possible that for some there may be some stamping or writing if they wanted to keep it oriented. Now, using the bands, using the ties we’ve made our pairs. Now, if you’ll pay careful attention to how these spokes, are angled. It’ll be easy to start the lacing process. This spoke right here, this is an upper nipple. I’m simply just going to go in here and start that. The next one. If you just pay attention to the nipples it’ll sort of tell ya, the nipples on the rim. It will. It’ll tell you where the spoke is suppose to go. Because all of these holes are angled. And go right back to there orientation. You look right close right here. You’ll actually see that the this dimple, is facing exactly toward that spoke. This dimple is angled downward, toward that spoke. This one This dimple right here. is perfect for receiving a spoke coming from that direction. And that’s how all this works together. Once you break it down. Once you have taken the time to pair em off. And get them out of the way. This is the easy part. Just takes a little time and patience. The wheel is actually laced. The lacing part of it is done. Now we got to go to the truing. We got to go through that process very slowly. Very methodically Because as you torque and tighten, you also moving the rim. In relationship to the hub. What we are going to do now. We’re going to actually use a pointer. Get this wheel where it’s true back and forth. See the wobble It’s also As you move this thing it’ll go in and out. There’s two dynamics here we’ve got to work out. We’ve got to first, we want the wheel round. We are going to worry about. The truing of the wheel. So that it rolls around. And we get the elliptical part of it out. You start tightening spokes you can deform the rim. And we’ve got to get that out. So, the first thing that I’m going to do, is we set up this little margin here. with our pointer set up we rotate the rim. Where the rim comes closest to the pointer, we’ve got to shorten the length of the spoke. To tighten the spoke is to shorten it. So this is the section we’re going to work on to shorten the distince between the hub and the outer rim Always like to tighten never loosen. Unless absolutely necessary. Because you’re going to be tightening anyway, until you achieve the torque. That you need on the spoke. Which is about four pounds, by the way. See I’m long there. So I’m going to concentrate my. Basically what I’m doing is that I’m shorting the spokes. I’m pulling the rim away from that that stick we’ve got using as a pointer. I’m long right there still Got to go slow you don’t want to change anything. And that’s just the finial torquing.