JL Spare Tire Delete Install | JcrOffroad

JL Spare Tire Delete Install | JcrOffroad

– At JCRoffroad we made our
tire carrier delete plate with legality in mind. It holds a license plate. It holds a license plate light, legality. It holds a third brake light, ladies. And it holds a JL back up camera. So you can pretend that you
know how to parallel park. All this awesomeness installs
super ridiculously easy. So let’s get started. So the first step is gonna be to remove the wheel and tire off
the factory carrier. And at this point you may be asking why is your wheel pink? And I’d ask you to mind your own business. Because I’m a grown man. And I can paint this
wheel any color I want. And these instructions are gonna work if your wheel isn’t as
cool of a color as pink. Maybe yours is silver or black or something else boring. But you can follow along just the same. I invite you to watch the instruction even though you don’t have as cool of a color wheel as I have. Anyway first up is to remove
this little camera hood here. You’re gonna take a T40 torx socket, stick it in there and
twist that counterclockwise to the unlock position and
then this just slides off. I have no idea what it’s actually for so we’re just gonna toss it. Then we’re gonna remove the lugnuts and pull off our pretty pink wheel. Already now we’re gonna
pull this wheel and tire off the factory carrier. And to prove I’m still a man even though I’ve got a pink wheel I’m gonna do it by myself. So, Oh that’s a 37. Oh Jesus what a huge mistake. Oh it’s so big. Now we gotta remove
this inner panel inside the tailgate here. And I find just kind of grab it right here where the wiring goes in and
just carefully pulling it off. Works fine. So we’re gonna remove
these top two connectors. This bottom one is for
the lock and what not. So the first thing to do is
take this little red clip and pull it all the way out. And then there’s a little
black button there, go ahead and push in. And in theory this connector comes apart. Just like that. So that’s that one. And for the coax for the camera, push in the white clip and then pull it straight apart in the same way. Being careful not to break those. Once those are loose you wanna come to the other side and we’re gonna pull this wiring and this grommet right
through the tailgate. Just like that. So that is loose. Now using a 13 mm socket go ahead and remove the
eight bolts that are holding on the factory tire mount. Then go ahead and remove
the whole assembly. All right so now we have to take apart this factory carrier so we can harvest all of the wiring and the backup camera. You’re gonna do that with a T25 torx. Up here on top you’re gonna remove these seven torx bits and then
on the tire carrier portion you’re gonna remove two one on each side. So just get those all pulled out and you can start to
pull that carrier apart. Once you get all those loose you can push these studs through. Yours might be a little tighter than ours. So you may have to use a
dead bull hammer for that. But go ahead and pull
these studs out there. Now we’re gonna want to take this apart after all the screws are out. Just go ahead and pull this off the back and then we have to remove this clip. And you would think it
would be on this side, but you’d be wrong. So we have to take our T25 again and pull these two screws here. To remove the factory third brake light. Then once that’s done we can flip it over, push in the little tab
and pull this apart. So now we have this wiring here. And what we’re gonna do
is pull it through there. And then we’ll have most
of the wiring loose. Now we have to free the
camera from where it’s at. So go ahead and put this back over and you’ll see these kind
of black plastic pieces here inside of where the
studs were for the lugnuts. So go ahead and push that through. And yours make take a little
bit more force than ours did. That’s the general concept. If you have to use a little
brass punch or something. That’ll work fine. Then once you have this
little camera mount out, you’re gonna wanna grap a
T8 and remove these three tiny little screws to
get this camera free. Once those three screws are removed go ahead and pull this camera out and then there’s a little pink clip there. Push that in and pull the camera free of the wiring harness. And then pull the wiring harness free. So all you need from
the factory tire mount is this wiring harness and this camera. Everything else you
can throw in the trash. We supply you with this really sweet little LED license plate light. But there’s no 12 volt circuit. There’s no running lights
circuit in the tailgate from the factory. So we have to go find one. And the easiest place is gonna be in the passenger side tail light. So we’re gonna take that apart first. Let’s get started on that. So to get the tail light off, first you have to pull
this little cover off. You can use a dash clip tool or whatever. Just pop that guy off. And then use a T40. There’s a little white
torx head screw in here. It’s plastic. And that just takes a T40. Go ahead and loosen that all the way up. They’re not on there very tight at all. Then you’re gonna see this kind of crazy looking
plastic spring whatever. Once that bolt is removed, the tail light comes off pretty simply. Just go ahead and pull it
right off the corner there. And then we’ll disconnect it
so we can work on the bench. Take this red clip and
push it all the way out. And this might be a little difficult because the black clip right here that we have to push down. While at the same time
pulling these clips apart and this one fights me every single time. There we go got that apart. So to get the wire from the
tail light to the tailgate we have to go underneath
this plastic here. So we’re gonna have to
take some stuff apart. We’ll have to get this rubber out and that is covered by
this plastic portion here on our soft top. First up is to kick out the C pillar part of the soft top there. And then with a T50 go ahead and remove this bolt. Once that’s done you can pull
off this plastic piece here. And that will give you access
to this rubber gasket here. If this is underneath your hardtop, sorry don’t have a hardtop
to figure that out. You may be able to do this
without pulling this gasket off. You can just pry it back
to get the plastic off. But with a soft top it’s so easy to just pull this gasket. I would do it that way. Go ahead with your tool pop up those two little plastic
Christmas tree thingies and then go ahead and pull that rubber just kind of down out of the way. Now we are going to
separate this plastic here and the first step with your
dash tool or screwdriver is to pop up the seatbelt trim here. Pop that up and move that out of the way. And then this is all clips right here. So you gotta be careful
you don’t break anything. But we’re just going to go ahead and pull this plastic apart. That’s as far as we have to go. What we’re trying to get to
is this grommet right here. We’re gonna poke our wires
through this grommet. Then we’re gonna run ’em down here and this is the harness for the tail gate. So we’re just gonna follow that harness into the tail gate with our wiring for the license plate LED. So take a phillips screwdriver and remove these three screws here. And that’ll take this back cover off. Then it’ll give us a little more access to the wires that we’re
trying to get to here. So once you get this
plastic piece off here you’re gonna see a bunch of wires. What you’re looking for is
the blue and the purple wire. We’re just gonna cut those just like that. So there it is. The blue and purple wire here that goes to the factory connector. And we’re gonna go
ahead and just strip off a little sheathing from
this blue and purple wire. Be careful while you’re doing this. The wires are really small and you don’t wanna cut any of the wire. You just wanna strip about
a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch off of the sheathing. So we’re gonna provide you with some black and some red primary wire here. You wanna strip a little
bit off from these as well. And then we’re going to
supply you with these shrink and seal butt connectors. These things work really great. You’re gonna take the red wire and you’re gonna twist that
together with the blue wire that goes towards the connector that goes towards the vehicle. You’re gonna twist those wires together. You’re gonna slide that into one end of these butt connectors. Make sure that both wires are in there. You’re gonna go ahead
and crimp that tightly. And once you do that you’re
gonna wanna make sure that crimp is nice and tight and those wires are not gonna pull out. Then you’re gonna take the black wire and you’re gonna connect
it with this purple wire. Remember connected to the
side that goes to the vehicle. Twist those together. And then insert those into
the other butt connector that we supply. Make sure they’re all the
way in the butt connector. And go ahead and crimp
that connector down. Now we’re gonna take this
purple and black wire and connect it to the purple wire that goes into the tail light. That wire is really small so be really careful and
be extra sure that you crimp it tightly. You may have to use the smaller crimp portion of your pliers. Make sure that’s in there nice and tight. And then do the same thing
with the red and the blue wire. Those go to the blue wire that goes into the back of the tail light. Same deal. It’s pretty small be careful. Crimp it extra tight. Now that you have those
butt connectors connected. We’re gonna go ahead
and shrink these tubes. So I’ve got a heat gun here. You can also use a hair dryer. You can use a lighter but be careful. A lighter can actually melt it. And what you’re gonna do
is just work your heat gun or your hair dryer or your lighter quick over these heat shrink tubes. You’re gonna see ’em start to shrink. There’s a glue in here like a hot glue that’s going to melt as well. And when you see that start
to seep out of the end of the connector. You know that they’re shrunk enough and that everything is hot enough. On these smaller wires
they may not shrink enough. So what you can do is take your pliers and just go ahead and grab one edge of the connector there and crimp it. And that’ll make a
little flag lookin’ piece on that connector. And that’ll squeeze that glue out. Just hold it like that. So everything is nice and sealed. Check these connectors and make sure that they’re all watertight. That you can see some glue. Squeeze on both sides. That those little flags are tight enough. Little flags that you
pinched are tight enough. To seal the other end of the wires. And then go ahead and
grab some electrical tape and just tidy this up. Just basically so if this
new red and black wire ever gets pulled for any reason that it’s not gonna pull
those connectors apart. So just use some tape. Just to clean this up a little bit. You can tape the connectors all the way. This is all LED and pretty low power. So we’re not super worried about it. But we just don’t want any corrosion here. Now we’re going to reattach
this plastic bracket that we removed earlier with
the phillips head screws that we removed. So we’re gonna feed these
wires through this grommet here So I’m gonna take a punch or you can use a screwdriver or whatever. And I’m gonna make a hole
right on the edge there. Just big enough to feed
those wires through. Be careful you don’t
actually poke the harness when you do that. Now go ahead and pull
that black and red wire up through the hole in the
grommet that you made earlier. And make sure you’re going through the tail light hole in the back. Go ahead and reconnect this harness. Clip the safety clip back in. And make sure you feed
the loose wire up there. And then reinstall your tail light. Go ahead and reinstall the bolt that you removed from the tail light. And tighten it down. Don’t overtighten this it only
needs to be barely snugged. We’re gonna follow this wire harness here with our new red and black wire. But we want it inside of
this factory alum here. To do that we’re just
gonna pop these clips out. You can use a screwdriver or you can use a this is like a dash tool. Works really well for
gettin’ these clips out without ruining them. So we got all those out. And this one was already removed. But that’s usually right in there. Now we have to get our wires in here but we wanna do that
without ruining these clips. Because these factory clips
are pretty hard to come by. Here is a little trick that you can do. You know how zipties work. There’s a little plastic clip
in there that holds the zip. What you can do is you can
put a little pressure on it. And you’ll see that give you a little space to put a pick in. Go ahead and hold that inner clip down and you can open it right up. And we can reuse this factory zip. Do the same thing for
this one inside the Jeep. Now we’re gonna pull off
this factory cloth tape and do that with a pair of
scissors or a pair of nips. Be sure that you don’t cut
through any of the wires when you do this. We’ll retape it with just
regular electrical tape. We just wanna get into this nylon loom. Just like that on that side. And we’ll do the same
on the opposite side. Now we’re gonna follow this loom with our new red and black wire. And you can tape or loom
this if you want in here. It’s gonna be all hidden
under the plastic. So we’re not really worried
about it getting damaged. But if you’re super picky
about stuff like that. Go ahead and get some small
wiring loom and loom it up. We’re just gonna slide it in
through this nylon sheath here. Go ahead and pull it
through the opposite side. Now we’re gonna use a couple of zipties or some tape, whatever you want. To just tape these wires
to this factory harness just so it doesn’t move around. And then we are gonna retape
this factory nylon loom. On both sides. Reinstall the zips that
you pulled earlier. And you may have to take your pick and push that plastic piece
down just a little bit. In case they don’t grab. Now reinstall this harness
back on all of it’s pegs. And the clips back in
their respective holes. So go ahead and ziptie
this red and black wire to the wiring harness in
the bottom of your tailgate. Ziptie it or you can use tape too. And I know that this is a
ridiculous amount of work for a license plate light. But if it’s legal in your state, this is way better than getting a ticket. Because I’m not gonna pay your ticket. So that’s all on you. So once you get this red and black wire all the way to this side you can just let it hang right there. we’ll work with that later. Now we’re gonna go ahead and put this interior trim back together in the exact same way that it came apart. It all snaps right back in. Make sure it’s underneath
this rubber gasket here. Make sure all the clips are snapped. And then you can go ahead put the tail light bolt cover back on. Remember these little plastic clips that hold on the tail gate rubber. If you remove those those
can push right back in again. And then if you have a soft top reinstall this bracket with
the hardware that you removed. And a T50 torx bit. And then snap your soft
top back into place. Make sure it’s all tight. And that’s it for that. Good as new. So here’s the connector for
the factory third brake light. We’re gonna need to cut that off. Here’s one I prepared earlier. So once that’s cut off. We will take these wires
and we will strip them. Just like that. So after you get the vehicle
side harness stripped go ahead and stick it through
the hole in this bracket. And don’t forget to do this or you’re gonna be sad
like I was five minutes ago when I forgot to do this and I had to do it all over again. So slide that through
the hole in that bracket. And then go ahead and
take the butt connectors that we give you and crimp just one side. The factory wires are
white and black here. So we are just gonna
stick these on one side. Now go ahead and grab
the third brake light that we give you. And you’re gonna be compelled to wire it with the white to the white-green and the black to black. But don’t do that. This is a trailer LED
and they’re wired with white as ground and black
as battery positive. We’re actually gonna
wire these in backwards. So black is gonna go to white-green which is the brake light
positive on this vehicle. Go ahead and slide that in and crimp it. And then white is going to go to black. Black is the ground in the vehicle. White is the ground on this light. Go ahead and crimp that as well. Make sure you’re; Oh see look bad crimp. You always gotta check
those crimps and make sure that they’re tight or you’re
gonna have a bad connection. Usually when they pull out that easy you can slide it right back in again. And then recrimp it. Perfect. Go ahead and grab your
heat gun, your hairdryer, or your lighter. And heat shrink these butt connectors. Ha ha. I said butt. Now I’m gonna go ahead and tape this up just for aesthetics. It should be perfectly
sealed without the tape but that the way the whole
harness here is the same color. Now we’re gonna take the grommet end the end that goes in the vehicle. And we are gonna take a punch
or a pick or a screwdriver or whatever you’ve got here. And we are gonna punch a hole right there in the bottom
of this rubber grommet. Without punching into the wires. So you can peel this back. Watch your fingers, be really careful. And open it up just big enough to fish this red and black wire through. But small enough so that the
rubber will reseal around them. And then once you get that hole done. Maybe just one at a time. Push that wire through there. And you can kind of see
it right there in the end. You can even use your pick at this point and just kind of sacrifice
the end of the wire and push it through. But make sure that you clip
that end of the wire off once you pull it through there. There’s one end. For the second one what we can do is take just a little bit of tape and tape the second wire
to the first very tightly. But not with so much tape that it creates this huge extra diameter. And then we can pull this through. May have to feed it through on both sides. Once that tape gets through on this side go ahead and grab it. Pull those through. Now go ahead and pull ’em through equally and then most likely you’ll
probably have to cut some off. ‘Cause you may have
sacrificed the sheathing when you pulled on ’em. But go ahead and pull ’em so
that the ends of these wires are just about even with the connectors. So it’ll look just like that. And then we’ll go ahead and
tape this side of the grommet. Just to keep everything nice looking. Even though this is gonna be
buried inside the tail gate. Just like that. Now we’re gonna take our
infamous license plate light and we are gonna line it up
with the end of the connector for the camera just about right there. Go ahead and cut it. And strip the wires. These are super small just like
the factory JK light wires. So be careful when you strip ’em. Just like that. Strip our red and black wires that you just ran through that grommet. Like that. Take two more of the
crimp and seal connectors that one’s a little long so we can just trim it up a little bit. Crimp them on the wire side here. Go ahead and connect
the license plate wires black to black, and red to red on these crimp connectors. And be careful when you crimp ’em these wires are tiny. So you may have to use the
smaller crimpers on your pliers. That could damage this shrink sheathing. So just be super extra
careful while you’re doing it. Sometimes if you accidentally
punch a little hole in the sheathing with your crimper just like that right there. Once you heat it , it
will close right back up. Keep that in mind as well. Now we’re gonna go ahead
and tape up this harness. And we provide you with
some loom to cover this up. Or you can just do a
really great tape job. And that’ll look awesome as well. Entirely up to you. At some point you’re
gonna wanna keep the split between the brake light and the camera coaxial. But the camera coaxial and
the license plate light you can tape almost up to the top. Maybe leave five inches untaped. If you are installing our
tire carrier delete plate there’s gonna be a lot
of extra harness here. You can go ahead and just loop it up behind the license plate. I’ll show you how to do that in a second. If you are installing our
license plate relocation bracket in our Shield carrier
or our Adventure carrier you might need a lot of this harness. So once you have this all together for our tire carrier delete plate. You will have a third brake
light through a hole right here you will have a license plate light right next to your camera coaxial. All taped up really nice. Down to your grommet that
goes through your tail gate. You’re connector’s there and this red and black
wire loose right now. So now we can actually get to assembling our tire carrier delete
license plate bracket. So now you wanna take the
camera that you removed earlier and connect it. With the coaxial connector. And then take our delete bracket here flip it upside down and slide
that camera into the hole with the tab the mounting
tab facing downward. Kind of opposite of what you’d expect because of the labels
on there the other way. And then we provide you with
this bracket right here. And that wraps around the
camera just like that. And take the longer 1/4″
stainless bolt that we provide slide those to the front. Through that bracket and then put the 1/4″
flange nuts on the back Make sure the camera is
centered in that bracket and that the U kind of
captures it all the way around and hold that tight go to the front and take a 5/32 allen and tighten down those
1/4″ stainless bolts. You don’t have to go crazy on ’em. Just snug those down just so
that the camera is captured and doesn’t move. Grab your license plate and
slide it in from the side grab some of that 1/4″ stainless hardware and loosely install it on the top bolts of the license plate. Leave this top bolt all the way loose and go ahead and slip the
license plate light in there. Just leave that like that for now. Then we are gonna take this
third brake light mount and put it underneath sandwiching the bottom license
plate bolts to the frame. Hold that together just like that. You can loosely install two more of those 1/4″
stainless bolts and flange nuts. Now on the bottom of
this license plate light is some super sticky adhesive. So you’re gonna wanna
pull this tape off that. You only get one shot at this. So make sure you center it up properly on it’s little flange. Stick that on, hold it
for a couple seconds. That’ll be good to go. Now just go ahead and pull it’s wires through the plate there. And tighten down these upper
plate bolts with a 5/32 being careful not to cut
these wires with the plate when you tighten it. If you don’t like that red showing you can put a little bit
of black electrical tape on that before you pull it through. But it’s so tiny I don’t think
anyone’s gonna notice that. Now this bracket’s slotted. So we’re gonna wanna center that up and go ahead and tighten these lower license plate mounting bolts. Sometimes these lights ship
with really small holes we’re not sure why. So if you get that you may have to drill ’em out a little bit. You’re gonna grab a 7/32 or even a 3/16 if that’s
all you have drill bit. And then quickly drill those out. You’re not gonna be into
any light just plastic not a big deal at all. Go ahead and grab these tiny
little button head bolts that we provide and slide
them through the light and the bracket. Take a nyloc and put it on the bottom. And these tighten down with a 2.5 mm hex and the nuts take a 7 mm hand wrench. Like I said on our delete
plate you’re gonna have a lot of extra harness here
so it’s easier right now just to loop this up like this. You’re gonna leave yourself just about six inches sticking out. On the side there. And then just either tape
this up or ziptie it up and we can hide it right up
behind the license plate. If you wanna secure it even more you can take a small
ziptie and go between the third brake light bracket here and the delete plate itself. And you can ziptie that
wire just like that. Now we can bolt this on the
Jeep using the factory hardware. And we can tighten that all
down with a 13 mm socket. Now we are gonna push these
wires through the hole whence they came. Do the two connectors first and then the bare wires. Go ahead and feed them through there. Just leave it just like that for now. Then you wanna grab ’em on the other side and make they sure they
are properly routed through this hole here. And then go ahead and push
the rest of this harness in and then from the inside
you’ll pull on the harness while you press this grommet and you’ll get that
grommet seated on the door. So once you have these wires here, we can go and replug in
the factory connections. So here is the backup camera coaxial. And here is the third brake light plug. Make sure it’ll lock. The factory locking connector. And here we have our license
plate LED from the plate mount. And we here we have our
connections from the tail light. We are gonna cut these wires
the same length as all of the factory connectors. Then we are gonna strip off a little bit of each one of these connectors. Now we’re gonna supply you with
some wire disconnects here. And these are so if you ever wanna remove this tire carrier delete. Or our license plate mount
on our tire carriers. All you have to do is
remove all these wires and push them through the gate and you are good to go. So we got some male and female ones here. It doesn’t matter which one you do . We’ll put the female ones
on the tail gate side. We’ll put the matching spade on this other side of the
red wire and crimp that guy. And we connect these two
together just like that. The same thing for the black wires. Now we are gonna ziptie these
wires up just like this. You can tape these up if you want. There’s not gonna get really
any moisture up in here. Then we’re gonna get the
factory tail gate panel here. Re install that. And it looks like we never did anything. All right that’s all you
have to do to get that pesky worthless spare tire off the
tailgate of your Jeep Wrangler. And still be legal. Look we have a license plate light. A third brake light. All legal. I know that license plate light
seemed like the hardest part and it is probably the
longest part of the install. But don’t skip it. I don’t wanna be responsible
for you going straight to jail for not having a license plate light. All right if you have any questions, problems, comments or
concerns with this install or any install of JCRoffroad products. Shoot us a message at [email protected] or call us at 269-353-1184 Thank you so much for your support. Thanks for being part
of the JCRoffroad family we’ll talk to you soon. Looks great.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Having a vehicle that actually comes from the factory with a full size spare tire is a good thing. The only reason you should remove the factory mount is if you install a JCR Offroad bumper spare tire carrier.

  2. This is going to seem awful petty, but why are you having owners put SAE sized hardware on a vehicle that is (until this moment) pretty much 100% metric?

  3. Nice looking tire delete guys…..hope those that install it stick to the pavement cause the last time I was on a trail I don't remember seeing AAA. But I guess it's for mall use right or as I call it miss treatment of a perfectly good Jeep

  4. Can the wire be put through behind the plate where the vent is? Looks like an afterthought hanging in the wind.

  5. The red tag light wire is just begging for the edge of that plate. Don't underestimate vibration when it comes to chaffing.

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