JcrOffroad | JL Wrangler Shield Tire Carrier Installation

JcrOffroad | JL Wrangler Shield Tire Carrier Installation


– Big tires are no bueno on
the factory Wrangler tailgate. After a lot of miles
they can start to crack that tailgate, bend that
tailgate, you don’t want that. That’s why we make our
Shield Tire Carrier, it’s pretty fantastic,
it mounts onto any of our mid width or full width rear bumpers, and it opens with the tailgate. So there’s no extra latch,
nothing to worry about, you just grab the tailgate,
and it opens right up. It is super easy to install, and I’m going to show you
how to do that right now. (upbeat music) So the first step is
going to be to remove the wheel and tire off the factory carrier. And at this point, you may be asking, why is your wheel pink? And I’d ask you to mind your own business, because I’m a grown man,
and I can paint this wheel, any color I want. And these instructions are going to work, if your wheel isn’t as
cool as color as pink, maybe yours is silver or
black, or something else, boring but, you can follow
along just the same. I invite you to watch the instructions, even though you don’t have
as cool of a color wheel, as I have. Anyway, first up is to remove
this little camera hood here, you’re going to take a T40 torque socket, stick it in there and
twist it counterclockwise, to the unlock position, and
then this just slides off. I have no idea what it’s actually for so, we’re just going to toss it. Then we’re going to remove the lug nuts, and pull off our pretty pink wheel. Okay, now we’re going to
pull this wheel and tire off the factory carrier, and
to prove I’m still a man, even though I’ve got a pink wheel, I’m going to do it by myself. So, even though it’s a 37, and, oh Jesus, this was a huge mistake. Oh, it’s so big, ah. (grunting) Now we’ve got to remove this inner panel inside the tailgate here,
and I find just kind of, grabbing right here,
where the wiring goes in, and just carefully pulling it off. Works fine. So we’re going to remove
these top two connectors, this bottom one is for
the lock, or whatnot, so the first thing to do is
to take this little red clip, and pull it all the way out. And then there’s a little
black button there, go ahead and push in, and in theory, this connector comes
apart, just like that. So that’s that one, and then
for the coax for the camera. Push in the white clip, and then pull it straight
apart the same way, being careful not to break those. So, once those are loose, we’re going to come to the other side, and we’re going to pull this
wiring, and this grommet, right through the tailgate. Just like that, so that it is loose. Now, using a 13 millimeter socket, go ahead and remove the eight bolts that are holding on to
the factory tire mount. Then go ahead and remove
the whole assembly. Alright, so now we have
to take apart this factory carrier so we can harvest
all of the wiring, and the backup camera. And you’re going to do
that with a T25 Torx, and up here on top, you’re going to remove these seven Torx bits, and the
on the tire carrier portion, you’re going to remove
two, one on each side. So just get those all pulled out, and you can start to
pull that carrier apart. Alright, once you get all those loose, you can push the studs through, yours might a little tighter than ours, so you may have to use
dead blow hammer for that. But go ahead and pull
these studs out there. Okay, now we’re going to
want to take this apart, after all the screws are out, so you just go ahead and
pull this off the back, and then, we have to remove this clip. And you would think it
would be on this side, but, you’d be wrong, so we have
to take our T25, again, and pull these two screws here, to remove the factory third brake light. Then once that’s done,
we can flip it over, push in the little tab,
and pull this apart. So now we have this wiring here, and what we’re going to do
is, pull it through there, and then we’ll have most
of the wiring loose. Now we have to free the
camera, from where it’s at. So go ahead and flip this back over, and you’ll see these kind of
black plastic pieces here, inside of where the studs
were for the lug nuts. So go ahead and push that through, and yours might take a little
more force than ours did, but that’s the general concept. If you have to use a little
brass punch or something, that’ll work fine. Then once you have this
little camera mount out, you’re going to want to grab a T8, and remove these three tiny little screws, to get this camera free. Once those three screws are removed, go ahead and pull this camera out, and then there’s a little pink clip there, push that in, and pull the camera free of the wiring harness, and then pull the wiring harness free. Alright so all you need from
the factory tire mount is, this wiring harness and this camera. Everything else you
can throw in the trash. Alright, so I went ahead
and got that spare tire off, and the spare tire mount. And now we have to pull
these vents right here, so to do that, we’ve
got to open up the gate. Alright, so it’s kind of hard to see, but there are clips,
right here, four of them, one, two, three, four. And all we have to do is just pick one, we’ll pick the top ones here, and just go ahead and stick
a flat blade screwdriver in there and push that clip down, while you gently pull
up on the other side. So there’s one, do it right there as well, and these will pull right out. Do that for both vents. Alright so now we’re going to bolt on the tailgate portion of our
Shield Tire Carrier, so this is going to bolt right on with the eight factory
bolts that you pulled out. Now yours is not got
to have this worthless hole in it, like ours has,
this is a design change, that we made for the final. But besides that, it’s going
to look just like this, so make sure that these tabs
are on the driver’s side, and these tabs are on the passenger side. And go ahead and bolt that in
with the eight factory bolts. Now you can pull these
rubber bumpers if you want, but they won’t be in the way, so unless you have something else to seal those holes with, I’d just leave them. If you’ve had our rear
bumper on for a while, you probably have these
protective caps on there, on the top and on the bottom. Go ahead and remove those,
and then take the spindle, and slide it on into the sleeve. It may not slip right down, so you can use a dead blow
on these upper threads, if you want, but don’t
use a regular hammer, or you will ruin these threads,
and cause a big headache. Use a plastic hammer or a dead blow. It’ll go in just like that. Alright, now from the bottom, take this big grade eight
bolt that we’ve give you, and thread it into the spindle, make sure that the washer is on there, you can use a little
anti-seize on this bolt, just for rust preventative, if you want. Go ahead and thread that
up into the spindle. Just by hand for now. Alright, go ahead and
take a 1/8 end wrench, and go ahead and start
to tighten that bolt, and you’ll have to hold on to the spindle, from the top, but you should
be able to do that by hand. But you have to use something
to hold this spindle, there’s kind of a safe
area between these two bearing surfaces, that you can
grab with a pair of pliers. Don’t do the bearing surface, and don’t do the surface for the seal, but right in here, you can
safely grab it if you need to, but you shouldn’t, you should
be able to hold onto this, just by hand, while you
tighten down that lower bolt. I don’t have torque spec on here, because you probably won’t be able to get a torque wrench in there anyways, but let’s just call it really tight. And that 3/4 grade eight
can handle more torque than you’re going to be able to put on it, so don’t worry about that. Alright, we’re going to go ahead and grease these bearings now, so you might want to
get a pair of gloves on. And there’s kind of a trick to this, but it’s really simple. Alright, grab grease,
it doesn’t matter what grease you use for this at all, there’s no heat or anything involved, but grab some grease, and you want to put it in
your palm, just like this. Then you want to grab the bearing, this is one of the roller bearings here, and you kind of want to take this bearing and work it an angle, and just take a little grease each time. And what you’re trying to do is, you’re trying to force this grease up, you can see right there, it’s starting to force
through the rollers. And once it gets up a few rollers, just go ahead and turn it. Kind of force through the grease
at an angle into your palm. And the grease will push
itself up into the bearing. Go ahead and repeat this
process on the second bearing. While you have this grease on this glove, go ahead and just grease
the inner lip of the seal, you don’t have to go nuts on it, but, add some grease to the inner lip, and then I just wipe a little
bit on the dust wiper too. Just like that. Alright, go ahead and
take your shield carrier, turn it upside down, and rest
it on a bench, or a stool, on a towel, so you don’t hurt it, and then throw one of the bearings that you greased in there. Then take this seal here,
and you’re going to see, kind of a dust lip on the
seal, that’s going to go out, so we’re just going to set
this right on top of there. Then we’re going to take a small punch, and we’re going to, hammer this in, slowly at first, to get it started, then we’re going to
work our way around it. All the way around. Just like that, just make
sure it’s hammered in there, and that it’s even. Once it’s in there enough, it should be just under
flush, this rubber seal, will be just under flush, with the sleeve of the tire carrier. Alright, if your cap is
on your tire carrier, go ahead and remove that. And then if the nut and washer
is on the spindle still, go ahead and pull that as well. And then take your tire carrier, with the bearing you
inserted and the seal down, and slide that over the spindle. You’re going to kind of have
to wiggle it a little bit, to get it to seat there. Now take the other
bearing that you greased, ew, (laughs), and set that in the carrier, from the top. Push that down, and then
grab the big washer, and the nut, and loosely thread that on. Alright, so the right tool for this is a 1 1/2 inch socket. But you don’t have that, you can use a large adjustable wrench, or even a pair of channel
locks to tighten this down. But if you do that, be
careful that you’re not, rubbing your tool on the threads. There’s threads in the
spindle for the cap, and you do not want to ruin those threads, you’ll have a bad day. So I’m just going to tighten this down, until it seats the bearings, so that lower bearing is
going to seat against, that metal like, step,
I guess, down there. And you’re going to feel
it tighten up a little bit, this doesn’t need to be really tight, you just need to take the
bearing play out of it. And then it’s going to give you a little resistance to opening and closing, but you don’t have to go crazy with this. If you find that this
bolt is loosening up, or this nut, sorry, is loosening up, and you’re getting some
play in this carrier. You can Loc-Tite it, and
then retighten it down. Now you’re going to want
to take this machined aluminum cap, and make sure that there is a black o ring on it right there. And then add some
anti-seize to the threads, this is really important,
because this cap is aluminum, and this spindle is steel, and those dissimilar metals
will corrode together, if you don’t add some
grease, or some anti-seize, or something on the threads. Gross. And anti-seize will get everywhere, there’s no, no way around that. Alright, once you get anti-seize on this, and everything else
you own in your garage, go ahead and start it in
a few threads by hand, just to make sure that the
threads are lined up properly. And then grab the tool that we give you, and then tighten it down. Alright, in your hardware kit, are two heims, a male and female, yeah, you want more anti-seize. So put some more
anti-seize, on the threads, of this heim joint here, and then there’ll be
a fine thread jam nut, go ahead and thread that on. Alright, and once that
jam nuts is threaded on, you can thread these two pieces together. You know, we have no idea at this point, what the length is going
to be, so we’ll just guess. Alright, now in your kit,
you’re going to find four of these misalignment washers,
they look just like that. Grab two of them, put one
on the bottom of this tab, put one on the top, with
their tapers facing inward, and then slide this
heim joint between them. It doesn’t matter which
end of the heim you use, then take a 1/2 inch bolt and a washer, and push that through the top. And just loosely put a
jam nut on there for now. Alright now take this Delrin
block that’s in your kit, and that is going to slide
between these two brackets, you’re going to take a bolt and a washer, and then two flange nuts here, and we’re just going to leave
this loose for right now. I’m going to go ahead and
close the shield carrier, against the plate, and
you can see right here, this Delrin bushing should kind of nest on the metal triangle here, on the tire carrier itself. Get that all closed, and
then you can kind of guess at the length of this heim joint, see right there, it needs
to be a little longer. So this is just a guess for right now but, we want to get it so that, it just barely, is centered in the hole. Because we do want a little
bit of tension on it, that might be too centered, so, we’ll try that right there, so just almost centered in that hole. Then we’re going to open it back up, go ahead and open your tire carrier, and open your tailgate, an grab the last misalignment washers, one on the bottom, one on the top, with their tapers facing each other. And then we’re going to slide this heim into the carrier, and
we may have to rotate this little spherical
bearing inside of here, to get everything aligned. You’re going to need three
hands for this one, but, get everything slid together there, try to hold it all from falling out. And then grab one more of the
1/2 inch bolts and washers, and the slide everything
together like that. And then find the nut
that you lost, here it is. Find the flange nut,
and then just loosely, put that flange nut on there. Now we’re going to test the adjustment on that heim joint, so
we’re going to go ahead and close this tailgate. And what should happens is, you should see this
Delrin bushing contact, maybe a 1/2 inch or 3/4 of an
inch, before the gate closes. And you can lose the gate like that, and then kind of the test is, if you can grab this tire carrier, and try to pull it off, you
should be able to do it, but it should be pretty difficult. So that feels pretty good right there, we’re not putting too much
tension on the tailgate, but it’s nice and tight. Now this can loosen up over time, so you may have to readjust this, but all you have to do is spin that heim, either together or apart, and that’ll change how
tightly this tire carrier is tied against the tailgate. Alright, with the gate closed, and tightly against this Delrin bushing, we’re going to go ahead and
tighten these bolts down, 9/16 socket, and 9/16 end wrench, should be able to do that for you. Alright before we adjust and
tighten that heim joint up, I want to get the weight
of the spare on there, so we’re going to assemble
this tire carrier portion. Now this is made to
accept any Jeep pattern any five lug Jeep pattern, sorry. And there’s a diagram on our website to show you which holes to use, but there’s an easy way to do it as well. Just go ahead and set
it on your spare tire, spare wheel, rather, and
go ahead and rotate it, until you find the pattern, that matches, your wheel. There it is, five on five for this JK, and just go ahead and mark, the three holes with a Sharpie,
or a paint pen, or whatever. Alright, once you get
your bolt pattern marked, go ahead and set that aside, now we’re going to measure this tire, for the height on the tire mount. So what we want is just a quick estimate, of the center to the outside diameter, this is going to be about 18 or so inches, then we want to use a broomstick, across the tire like that,
and the measure the depth. And this is going to be, just about seven inches. Now that we have that measurement, we’re going to go ahead
and mount this inner plate of the tire plate, at least
18 inches up on center. So technically, we could get away with all the way at the bottom, but we want a little bit of clearance, so we’re going to jump
it one bolt from the top. Go ahead and open the tailgate up, so you get the most room, and then, we can grab these short 1/2 inch bolts, with a washer, pop them
through the top first, and then go one hole down, and then loosely put some 1/2 flange nuts, on the backside. Then we can do the same
on the bottom holes. Now you can tighten all those down with a 3/4 inch socket
and a 3/4 inch end wrench. Alright, now we want to
take the outer portion of this tire plate, and
go ahead and slide it, inside of the inner portion, we have these carriage head bolts here, just place one through the top, and another flange nut, through the bottom. Another one of those
three handed operations. Go ahead put that flange nut
on just for a few threads, and then two more, carriage
bolts from the side. Alright go ahead and tighten
this upper flange nut, just enough, so you can
slide this mount in and out, then take that measurement
that you had earlier. I think ours was seven inches. You want to go ahead and
set this just a 1/4 inch shy of that, so we’re
going to set this to 6 3/4. And that’s because, when
you tighten the tire down, it’ll squeeze it just
barely against this carrier, and it will stop it from shaking. Now if you need more
than seven inches or so, of space sticking out of here, you’re going to have
to add a wheel spacer. This is designed for the back spacing that most people are going to run, which is right around 5 1/2, and lower back spacing, so 5 1/2, five, 4 1/2, et cetera. If you’re running a factory wheel, you’re going to have
to add a wheel spacer, on top of this mount. Alright once you get that depth set, go ahead and tighten these down. The upper one, you’re
going to have to tighten with a 3/4 inch socket, that’s all that’s going to fit in there. And the side ones, you’re
going to have to tighten with a 3/4 end wrench. Alright, once you get all
those bolts tightened, and you get this mounted,
we can go ahead and pull these wheel studs in, so, we’re going to put one through, the mark that we made earlier. Grab two washers, and the
extra lug nut that we give you, and thread this lug nut on backwards, so the flat portion of the lug nut, against the washers, then go
ahead and grab a 13/16 socket, and you can do this with
an impact, of course, but you can actually do it by hand. Once it’s mounted, we have
a whole lot of leverage, we can work against. Kind of watch from the
back, and you’ll see. That stud get pulled in. And once you see all the
daylight go away behind it, you know it is tight. Repeat that for the other two wheel studs. Now if you use an impact, be careful, this nut is going to get very hot. Alright, now go ahead
and put the inner portion of your license plate relocation bracket, on top of that tire mount. Then go ahead and mount your tire, and since no one is currently around, I’m going to do it by myself again. Lift with my knees, oh my gosh, it’s so big. Why don’t I just run 31s? Because I’ve got be cool. Oh. Yeah. Alright, now the studs on these carriers, and 1/2 inch 20, and
we’re going to provide you with with some lug nuts you can use, but depending on your wheel, you may need something a
little more low clearance, so you can fit a socket in there. We’re going to use the open
lugged 1/2 inch 20 lug nuts that will use a 3/4 inch socket. Go ahead and tighten these down. Alright, once you get this tire on here, you can see, with the weight on it, we have a little bit of play there. So we need to adjust that heim before we tighten everything down. Super easy to do. Alright, this is a trial
and error kind of deal, but what we’re going to do is, we’re going to pull this
bolt here, all the way up, it doesn’t matter which one you do. And then, slide this heim joint out, catch those, misalignment washers. And then I’m going to do
one full turn, inward, so one half, one, right there. And I think at should
give us plenty of preload, so we’re going to go back,
and pop this on here again, on top of the bottom misalignment washer, slide the top misalignment washer in. And go ahead and slide this 1/2 inch bolt, back through again. And just loosely put
the nut on the bottom, then we’ll check that. So we can see that bracket
contact the Delrin, about 3/4 of an inch before it closes. Yeah, that feels really good. So let’s go ahead and
tighten down that heim. Alright, so with a 3/4 end
wrench, and a 3/4 socket, you can go ahead and
tighten down both of these 1/2 inch bolts on the carrier,
and on the gate itself. We supply you with this
really sweet little LED license plate light, but there’s no 12 volt circuit, there’s no running light circuit, in the tailgate from the factory. So we have to go find one, and the easiest place
is going to be in the passenger side tail light. So we’re going to take that apart first, let’s get started on that. Alright, so to get the tail light off, first you have to pull
this little cover off, and you can use a dash
clip tool or whatever, just pop that guy off. And then use a T40,
there’s a little white, Torx head screw in here, it’s plastic, and this takes a T40, so, go ahead and loosen that all the way up. They’re not on there very tight at all, and you’re going to see
this kind of crazy looking, plastic spring, whatever. Once that bolt is removed,
the tail light comes off, pretty simply, just go
ahead and pull it right off the corner there. And then we’ll disconnect it
so we can work on the bench. So take this red clip and
push it all the way out, and this might be a little difficult, but there’s a black clip right here, that we have to push down. While at the same time, pulling these clips apart and, this one fights me every single time. So, there we go, got that apart. Alright, so to get the
wiring from the tail light, to the tailgate, we have to go underneath
this plastic here. So we’re going to have
to take some stuff apart, we have to get this rubber out, and that is covered by
this plastic portion here, on our soft top. So, the first step is the
kick out that c pillar part of the soft top there, and then with a T50, go ahead and remove this bolt. Once that’s done, you can pull
of this plastic piece here, and that will give you access
to this rubber gasket here. If this is underneath your hard top, sorry, I don’t have a hard
top to figure that out, you may be able to do this without pulling this gasket off, you can just pry it back, to get the plastic off. But with a soft top, it’s so
easy just to pull this gasket. I would do it that way. Go ahead with your tool,
pop those two little plastic Christmas tree thingies, and then go ahead and pull, that rubber, just kind
of down, out of the way. Now we are going to
separate this plastic here, and the first step with your
dash tool or a screwdriver, is to pop up the seatbelt trim, here. Pop that up, and move that out of the way, and then this is all clips right here. So you’ve got to be careful
you don’t break anything, but we’re just going to go ahead and pull, this plastic apart. That’s a far as we have to go, what we’re trying to get to
is this grommet right here, we’re going to poke our
wires through this grommet, then we’re going to run them down here, and this is the harness for the tailgate. So we’re just going to follow that harness into the tailgate with our wiring, for the license plate LED. Take a Phillips screwdriver, and remove these three screws here, and that’ll take this back cover off, and that’ll give us a little more access to the wires we’re trying to get to here. Alright, so once you get
this plastic piece off here, you’re going to see a bunch of wires, what you’re looking for is the blue and the purple wire, and
we’re just going to cut those, just like that. So there it is, the blue
and the purple wire here, that goes to the factory connector. And then we are going to go ahead and just strip off a little sheathing from this blue and purple wire. Be careful while you’re doing this, the wires are really small, and you don’t want to cut any of the wire, you just want to strip, about 1/4 to 3/8 of an
inch off of the sheathing. Alright, so we’re going
to provide you with some black and some red primary wire, you want to strip a little
bit off from these as well. And then we’re going to,
supply you with these shrink and seal butt connectors, these things work really great. You’re going to take the red wire, and you’re going to twist that together, with the blue wire that
goes towards the connector, that goes towards the vehicle. You’re going to twist
those wires together, you’re going to slide that into one end, of these butt connectors, make sure that both wires are in there. And you’re going to go ahead
and crimp that tightly. And once you do that,
you’re going to want to make sure that, that
crimp is nice and tight, and those wires are not going to pull out. Then you’re going to take the black wire, and you’re going to connect
it with this purple wire, remember, connect to the side
that goes to the vehicle, twist those together. And then enter those into
the other butt connector, that we supply. Make sure they’re all the
way in the butt connector, and go ahead and crimp
that connector down. Now we’re going to take
this purple and black wire, and connect it the purple wire that goes into the tail light. That wire’s really small,
so be very careful, be extra sure you crimp it tightly, you may have to use the smaller crimp portion of your pliers. Make sure that’s in there nice and tight. And then do the same thing
with the red and the blue wire, those go to the blue wire that goes into the back of the
tail light, same deal. It’s pretty small, be careful. Crimp it extra tight. Alright, now that you have
those butt connectors connected, we’re going to go ahead
and shrink these tubes. So I’ve got a heat gun here, you can also use a hair dryer, you can use a lighter, but be careful, a lighter can actually melt it. And what you’re going to do is just, work your heat gun or your
hair dryer, or your lighter, quick over these heat shrink tubes. You’re going to see them start to shrink, there is a glue in here, like a hot glue, that’s
going to melt as well, and when you see that start to seep out, of the end of the connector, you know that they’re shrunk enough, and that everything is hot enough. On these smaller wires, they may not shrink enough, so what you can do is take your pliers, and just go ahead and
grab one edge of the, connector there, and crimp it, and that’ll make a little
flag looking piece, on that connector, and
that’ll squeeze that glue out, just hold it like that. So everything is nice and sealed. Alright, check these connectors, and make sure that
they’re all water tight, you can see some glue
squeeze on both sides, those little flags are tight enough, the little flags that you
pinched are tight enough, to seal the other end of the wires. And then go ahead and
grab some electrical tape, and just tidy this up, just basically, so that if this new red
and black wire ever gets pulled for any reason, that it’s not going to pull
those connectors apart. So just use some tape, just
to clean this up a little bit, you can tape the connectors all the way. This is all LED and pretty low power, so we’re not super worried about it, but, we just don’t want
any corrosion here. So we’re going to feed these wires through this grommet here, so I’m going to take a punch, or you can use a screwdriver or whatever, and I’m going to make a hole,
right on the edge there, just big enough to feed
those wires through, be careful you don’t
actually poke the harness when you do that. Now we’re going to go ahead and reattach this plastic bracket
that we removed earlier, with the Phillips head
screws, that we removed. Now I’ll go ahead and pull
that black and red wire, up through the hole in the
grommet that you made earlier, and make sure you’re going
through the tail light hole, in the back. Go ahead an reconnect this harness, clip the safety clip back in, and make sure you feed
the loose wire up there. And then reinstall your tail light. Go ahead and reinstall the bolt that you removed from the tail light, and tighten it down. Don’t over tighten this, it
only needs to be barely snugged. So we’re going to follow
this wire harness here, with our new red and black wire, but we want it inside of
this factory loom here, so to do that, we’re just going to pop, these clips out, you
can use a screwdriver, or you can use, this
is a like a dash tool. It works really well for
getting these clips out, without, ruining them. So we’ve got all those out. And this one was already removed, but that’s usually right in there. So now we have to get our wires in here, but we want to do that,
without ruining these clips, because these factory clips
are pretty hard to come by. So here is a little trick that you can do. So you know how zip ties work, there’s a little plastic clip in there, that holds the zip, what you can do, is you can put a little pressure on it, and you’ll see that,
it’ll give a little space to put a pick in. Go ahead and hold, that inner clip down, and you can open it right up. And we can reuse this factory zip. Do the same thing, for
this one, inside the Jeep. And I want pull off
this factory cloth tape, and do that with a pair of
scissors, or a pair of nips, be sure that you don’t cut
through any of the wires, when you do this. We’ll retape it with just
regular electrical tape, we just want to get into this nylon loom. Just like that on that side, and we’ll do the same, on the opposite side. Alright now we’re going
to follow this loom with our new red and black wire, and you can tape or loom
this if you want in here, it’s going to be all hidden under the, the plastic, so we’re not
really worried about it getting damaged, but if you’re super picky about stuff like that, go ahead and get some small
wiring loom and loom it up. But we’re just going
to slide it in through this nylon sheath here, and go ahead and pull it
through the opposite side. Now we’re going to use a couple zip ties, or some tape, whatever you want, to just, tape these wires to this factory harness, just so it doesn’t move around. And then we are going to retape, this factory nylon loom, on both sides. Reinstall the zips that
you pulled earlier, and you may have to take your pick, and push that plastic piece
down, just a little bit, in case they don’t grab. Now reinstall this harness
back on all of its pegs, and the clips back in
their respective holes. Alright, so go ahead and zip tie this red and black wire,
to the wiring harness in the bottom of your tailgate, zip tie it, or you could use tape too. And I know this a
ridiculous amount of work, for a license plate light, but if it’s illegal in your state, this is way better than getting a ticket, because I’m to going to pay your ticket. So, you know, that’s all on you, (laughs). So once you get this red and black wire, all the way to the side, you can just let it hang right there, we’ll work with that later. Now we’re going to go
ahead this interior trim back together in the exact
same way that it came apart. It all snaps right back in. Make sure it’s underneath, this rubber gasket here. Make sure all the clips are snapped, and then you can go ahead, and put the tail light bolt cover back on. Remember these little plastic clips, that hold on the tailgate rubber. If you remove those, those
can push right back in again. And then if you have a soft top, reinstall this bracket with
the hardware that you removed. And a T50 Torx bit. And then snap your soft
top back into place, make sure it’s all tight. And that’s it for that, good as new. Alright so here’s the connector for the factory third brake light, we’re going to need to cut that off. Ooh, so here’s one I
prepared earlier, (laughs), so once that’s cut off, we will take these wires
and we will strip them. Just like that. After you get the vehicle side harnessed, you have to go ahead and stick it through the hole in this bracket. And don’t forget to do this, or you’re going to be sad
like I was five minutes ago, when I forgot to do this, and I had to do it all over again. So slide that through
the hole in that bracket, and then go ahead and take, the butt connectors that we give you, and crimp just one side. The factory wires are
white and black here, so we are just going to
stick these on one side. Now go and grab the third
brake light that we give you, and you’re going to be
compelled to wire it, with the white to the
white, green to the green, and the black to black, but don’t do that. This is a trailer LED,
and they’re wired with, white is ground, and
black is battery positive. So, we’re actually going
to wire these in backwards. So black is going to go to white, green, which is the brake
light positive on this vehicle, go ahead and slide that in, and crimp it. And then white is going to go to, black, black is the ground on the vehicle, white is the ground this light. Go ahead and crimp that as well, make sure you’re, oh see, look, bad crimp, you always got
to check those crimps, and make sure that they’re tight. Or you’re going to have a bad connection, so, usually when they pull out that easy, you can slide it right back in again, and then recrimp it. Perfect. Go ahead and grab your heat gun, or your hairdryer or your lighter, and heat shrink these butt connectors. Ha, I said butt. I’m going to go ahead and tape this up, just for aesthetics, it
should be perfectly sealed, without the tape, but, that way the whole harness
here is the same color. Alright, now we’re going
to take the grommet end, the end that goes in the vehicle, and we are going to
take a punch or a pick, or a screwdriver, or
whatever you’ve got here, and we’re going to punch a hole, right there in the bottom
of this rubber grommet, without punching into the wire. So, you know, you can peel this back, watch your fingers, be really careful. And open it up just big enough to fish this red and black wire through, but small enough so that, the rubber will reseal around them. And then once you get that hole done, maybe just one at a time, push that wire through there. And you can kind of see
it right there in the end, and you can even use
your pick at this point, and kind of sacrifice the end of the wire, and push it through. But make sure that you clip
that end of the wire off, once you pull it through there. Alright there’s one,
and for the second one, what we can do is take
just a little bit of tape, and tape this second wire
to the first, very tightly. But not with so much tape that it creates this huge extra diameter. And then we can pull this through, you may have to feed it
through on both sides, but, and once that tape gets
through on this side, go ahead and grab it. Pull both through. Now go ahead and pull
them through equally, and then most likely,
you’ll probably have to cut some off. Because you may have
sacrificed the sheathing, when you pulled on them. But go ahead and pull them, so that the ends of these wires, are just about even with the connectors. So it’ll look just like that, and then we’ll go ahead and
tape this side of the grommet. Just to keep everything nice looking, even though this is going to
be buried inside the tailgate. Just like that. Now we’re going to take our
infamous license plate light, and we’re going to line it up with the end of the connector for the camera, just about right there. Go ahead and cut it. And strip the wires,
these are super small, just like the factory JK light wires. So be careful when you strip them. Just like that. Strip our red and black
wires that you just ran through that grommet. Like that. Take two more of the
crimp and seal connectors, that one’s a little long, so we can just trim it up a little bit. Crimp them on the wire side here, go ahead and connect the
license plate light wires, black to black, and red to red, on these crimp connectors. And be careful when you crimp
them, these wires are tiny. So you may have to use the
smaller crimpers on your pliers, but that could damage
this shrink sheathing, so just be super extra
careful while you’re doing it. Sometimes if you accidentally
punch a little hole, in the sheathing with your crimpers, just like that right there, once you heat it, it’ll
close right back up. So, keep that in mind as well. Now we’re going to go ahead
and tape up this harness, and we provide you with some loom, to cover this up, or you can just do a
really great tape job. And that’ll look awesome as well. Entirely up to you. At some point, you’re going to want to keep the split between the brake light, and the license plate light
and the camera coaxial. But the camera coaxial on
the license plate light, you can tape almost up to the top, maybe leave five inches, untaped. If you are installing our
tire carrier delete plate, there’s going to be a lot
of extra harness here. You can go ahead and just loop it up, behind the license plate, I’ll show you how to do that in a second. If you are installing our license plate relocation bracket, in our Shield Carrier, or our Adventure Carrier, you might need a lot of this harness. Cool. Alright, now we’re going to
assemble this license plate, and backup camera relocation bracket. The first thing we’re going to grab is, this bracket right here,
with the hole in it, you can see the bend
kind of faces backwards. And then we’re going to
grab the camera right here, and you’ll see it has three ears, the top, portion is missing an ear, it’s going to be confusing, because that sticker is on,
what I think, is upside down. But, at any rate, you’re going
to put it in just like this, with that ear facing down
the blank spot on top, camera through the hole there. You’re going to grab
this bracket right here, with the square in it, and that’s going to go
over the top of this, so that’s going to kind of
slide right on that camera, and sandwich the camera
between the two brackets. Now we’re going to grab
this license plate bracket, and this whole situation
is going to go behind that, just like that. We’re going to give you
some 1/4 inch stainless button heads, go ahead
and slide those through, all three layers of bracket, you may have to wiggle them
around just a little bit, to get them through. And then there’s some
1/4 inch flange nuts, that go on the back there. Go ahead and loosely install those, and once everything is lined
up and looks really good, take a 5/32 hex, and
tighten everything down, and once it’s all tightened down, your camera should be nice and tight, sandwiched between those metal plates. Now we’re going to grab our license plate, and that’s going to set
on this bracket like this. Two more 1/4 inch button
head, stainless fasteners, flange nuts on the back. Just like that, alright, once you get
this license plate bracket bolted up, your factory
wiring harness will, look something like this,
go ahead and tape it up, so it kind of resembles that. Then we’re going to give
you some of this wire loom, right here, and you’re going
to start it right up here, on top of the camera. And the easiest thing to
do is start it that way, so it’s just covering that
kind of pink connector, on the camera. And then we’ll take a little
bit of electrical tape here, and we’ll tape the
first part of this loom, just like that. Then when we’ve got that
portion taped like that, then we can go ahead and
start to work it down, on this factory wiring harness. And this will just protect that wiring, as it goes through the wheel. Now we can put a little
bit of tape on here, just to make sure that this
doesn’t move all around, or open back up again, at the end. And then a few places in the middle. Then from the front, it
looks nice and clean. Alright, now we’re going
to feed this through the exact opposite way
we’re going to take it off, if we ever have to remove the spare tire. All the wiring clips, through the center, of our spare tire mount here,
the grommet and everything, and then go ahead and feed in, that wire loom that you just made. I’ll go ahead and drop one of the 1/4 inch stainless steel button heads we give you, through the back hole, and then put a 1/4 inch
flange nut underneath, just loose for now. And then take the second
1/4 inch button head, push that mount back, and
then slide the second nut on, from underneath. Then kind of pick your depth
here, on this plate mount, but you want to be able to tighten up that innermost button head. So that’s going to kind of limit how deep you can go with it. But go ahead and tighten these
up with a 5/32, hex wrench. Then pull your wiring harness
through this outer slit here, and then push the connectors
through the tailgate. And then push the grommet in, come on the inside and
make your connections. Then you can reattach this inner panel. Alright, now if you want to install our Shield High Lift Mount,
that’s going to go right here. First put the bolts on
that mount the high lift, and there’s some little
clip washers in there, that goes against the tire. And then we give you
some button head bolts, and some flange nuts right here. One on each of those. The bottom bolt is fixed, but the top one will slide in and out, to accommodate different
styles of high lift jacks. And this is going to tighten
down with a 9/16 end wrench, and a 7/32 hex socket, or key handle. Alright so go ahead an
bolt this high lift on, with the wing nuts, and be
careful to check the clearance, between the base and the
high lift, and the light, when you open the tailgate all the way up. That’s really important
that you want to check that, you can move it up or down on
this mount, if you need to. Alright, that’s it, if you
notice any rattles down the road, you can go ahead and
readjust that heim joint. If you notice any squeaks,
you can use the spray lube, on the heim joint, or
on that Delrin bushing. If you have an questions,
comments or concerns, feel free to reach out to us
via phone, at 269-353-1184, or email [email protected], thanks for your order, thanks for becoming part
of the JCR Offroad family, and we’ll talk to you soon. (upbeat music)

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  1. Am I correct in seeing that you have to disassemble the inside of the gate to get the license plate bracket out of the way to access the spare?

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