Is Wheel Weight Important?

Is Wheel Weight Important?


– Hello YouTube, today we’re
here to talk to you about if wheel weight is important,
and I am your host. That sounded really creepy, but I actually am Alex
from Fitment Industries and for the low, low cost of subscribing, we’re going to learnt you some things. So I don’t know if you guys know or not, but we see it a lot here on
the wheel side of things, that if you’re going
to buy wheels and tires or you’re talking about
wheels and tires online, there’s a lot of people that
argue about wheel weight and how important or not
important it actually is. If you’re one of those
guys that build your car for a car show, you may not
really care about wheel weight or you might be talking smack
towards the autocross people that care way too much about half a pound shaved off their wheel. Then you have the autocross people that are obviously talking
smack about the car show people, because they do care
about the pound savings that they could get if
they went with a Hypergram versus just a normal Cosmis wheel. And then you also have the
HPD people that are like, “Wow, you go around a parking
lot with traffic cones, “that really doesn’t do a whole lot. “We need to make sure that
we’re saving as much weight “as possible, which could
be a quarter pound.” And it’s just a big controversial subject. And so we decided to talk
a little bit about it, because there’s a lot of
myths and things that we think are a little bit twisted
for the convenience of whoever’s arguing with
you about wheel weight. So let’s talk about it. So the first and most common misconception about wheel weight is that you have sprung weight versus unsprung weight. And for everybody out there, we’re gonna keep this super, super simple. So sprung weight is obviously
weight that is, well, sprung. Sprung weight is just the weight that is held up by the suspension. A lot of times what people will say is, “Any weight that’s above
the suspension components “is your sprung weight.” So anything from your chassis
to your motor to your interior to your subs to anything
that’s above your suspension is going to be your sprung weight, while anything below that,
or your suspension components themselves, are your unsprung weight. That would be your wheels,
your tires, your break rotors, your break pads, everything in between. Now, what you see a lot
of times on the internet is people trying to
make ratios for unsprung to sprung weight and how
much weight it can save you if you are shaving a
pound off of your wheels, that it equals around 15
pounds of weight shaved if it’s above your suspension component. And that is probably the biggest myth. And the big answer to that
question is (dial tone) No, it’s not true. Sprung weight versus unsprung
weight is obviously important, because your sprung weight is what’s gonna keep traction on the ground. A lot of times if you loosen
up a lot of your sprung weight and you don’t have the
correct characteristics to match it with your unsprung weight, you’re gonna have issues with traction, turning, and all that sort of fun stuff. So there is a ratio in
terms of making sure that you’re maintaining
the correct traction path, but that is super fancy stuff and you really wanna know
about it, let us know in the comments, but we won’t
talk about it right here. What you do need to know
is that sprung weight ideally is something
that you wanna minimize because a lot of times
if you have less weight, you’re gonna have more
vehicle responsiveness. Now this is where it kind of dives into probably the most important part of this whole thing,
which isn’t sprung weight versus unsprung weight,
it’s rotational mass. So rotational mass is
exactly what it sounds like. And if you were a highschooler, you probably remember science class when we talked about rotational mass and that is essentially
just mass that is rotating and how it actually is more of an effort than it is if it’s just standard weight, or static weight as we like to call it. So if you were to take a
pound weight and attach it to a 12 inch string, it’d
probably be a little bit harder to keep in tune than it would be just holding a one pound weight. The easiest, simplest way we
can explain rotational mass, I know there’s somebody in the comments that’s gonna call us out
on it, just hear us out. Rotational weight is probably
the most important thing when it comes to wheel weight,
because with wheel weights, you are essentially spinning the wheels. So the heavier the wheel,
the more rotational mass you essentially have, and ultimately that can be more
difficult on your vehicle. Now if you have a 32 pound wheel, everything’s gonna be
tough on your vehicle in terms of braking, stopping, going, any sort of power steering
fluid, you can kiss that goodbye, because it’s just gonna be
a huge pain in the butt. On top of that, if you’ve
ever ran diamond Steelies, that are 32 pound, 15 by
10s, without power steering, you know how terrible
and difficult it can be to actually turn wheels that are heavy. You may ask me how I know. I know because I did it; terrible idea. Rotational mass is important
to take into effect if you really are trying to shave a little bit of weight off your wheels. But it doesn’t have a
huge ratio attached to it. You see, rotational weight is
what’s gonna affect your car from being able to slow down, go, or turn, because of your
corner responsiveness, especially connected to your steering. So really, is it important? Absolutely. And rotational mass is what you
should really be looking at, versus the sprung weight
and unsprung weight and that whole ratio,
because the whole one pound to 15 pounds or the one
pound to three pounds or the four pounds, the 20
pounds, it’s just not true. And there are ratios for rotational mass in terms of deeming how much you can save on the overall scheme of things, but it’s gonna be pretty minimalistic. What you do need to know
is that if you are looking to shave weight for rotational
mass, you should shave the weight furthest
away from the hub bore. So you should go with rotary
forced wheels because the wheel is actually farther
away from the hub bore. The more weight that’s spinning around that center is
ultimately gonna have more of an effect than if the wheel weight was closer to the center,
like your center cast. So is wheel weight important? And that’s a really big thing
that a lot of people ask. And the answer to that
question is obviously yes. But is it as important
as what a lot of people make it out to believe? And
the answer to that is no. Rotational mass is important, yes; wheel weight is also important. But if you’re looking to shave a pound or a pound and a half off your wheels and it’s the difference between
spending $1,200 and $2,400 and you’re trying to
keep everything in mind, it really isn’t that big of a deal. And 99% of people will
not see a difference in their overall driving
quality if they even shave two to three pounds off of a
wheel, and that’s per wheel. What you are gonna notice is you might get a little bit more responsiveness
and that’s a good thing, but unless you’re a very avid
track autocrosser HPD person, you’re really not gonna even notice. You’re gonna get way more
of drive time reduction if you just become a better driver. So that’s one of those things
where if you’re looking to get a set of wheels
and the wheel weight is not that different, get what you want. And if you don’t really want to worry about weight, you don’t have to. But just remember that if you are going above five, six pounds for a wheel, that’s when you’re gonna
start to see a difference. But don’t expect any sort
of wheel weight ratio or anything like that, because
that’s even tripped us up in the past before and it
just simply isn’t true. So I hope you guys enjoyed. This is what we think about wheel weight. Let us know in the
comments what you’d like to see us talk about next and of course, if you’re looking at wheels,
tires, or suspension, check out fitmentindustries.com. We have 30,000 wheels, tires, suspension. We have everything that
you could possibly imagine. It’s pretty neat. And we have
a gallery, so add your car to the gallery if you want to. But I’m Alex from Fitment Industries. We’ll see you later, peace. I’m not gonna drop it this time, whoo!

Only registered users can comment.

  1. I=cMRR. I- the energy required to change the angular momentum of a rotating object, is equal to it's Mass, multiplied by it's Radius from the center if rotation Squared, multiplied by a constant that's determined by the shape of the object.
    In other words, diameter affects the amount of energy to accelerate and decelerate the wheel as well as mass. Since the general shape of the wheel/tire combination will not change much, the constant won't change. However radius and mass can be changed to some extent… Lighter weight wheels/tires that are of a diameter closer to the brake caliper will require less energy to accelerate and decelerate.

    So… those big, heavy wheels suck if you want to go fast or be efficient.
    Look at big rig tractor trailers…. They run alloy wheels because it saves fuel over millions of miles accelerating & decelerating that huge mass every time it moves. They don't just do it to look nice, it saves $$$ long term.

  2. Went from
    32lbs 18×10.5 235/40
    to
    17lbs 17×9 205/40
    in the rear for drifting. I know it helped me spin the wheels easier, but by how much?

  3. question: you say: "2-3 pound less weight you will not feel". how many pound different you need between 2 rims that you can feel the difference?

  4. Wheel weight is same as aero: the better driver you are and the lighter your car is the more of an effect its going to have.

  5. As a car guy but mainly a cyclist(the sporty overly serious type) i can really relate to that. Although i never heard somone say that unsprung mass is 15times worse than unsprung weight, many say that its at least a few multiple times. The rotational mass matters in my case more since the ratio between rider weight and power to the wheel weight is quite diffrent to cars. Many state that saving 300g on your wheels is like saving 600-900g on your frame. I can agree with twice the factor, but not more than that.
    For example: My old training wheelset weighs 2,1kg. My newer one 1,9kg. Apart from sightly higher stiffness, everything stays the same. But acceleration and tracking feels so much better. I could easily get some 1,2kg wheelsets that would make an even bigger diffrence.
    Unsprung mass is a bit more difficult. I changed from a very heavy 1,1kg front tire to a lighter 850g one. Fork stays the same. The suspension reacted noticeably better to smaller bumps and vibration, but bigger hits were just as uncomfortable. But im talking about very minor diffrences. You would have to have 500gish tires to really feel the unsprung mass get less. Sure, your suspension is working more, but is actually less active. In my eyes is the whole brabble about unsprung mass only for the ones that need to shave split seconds

  6. How is this a question. Of course it is. Its rotational mass, AND overall car weight. So it matters in more way than one. But I suppose this millennial generation is mentally retarded so basic physics elude them. Weight is weight. You dont magically lose 15 lbs of weight from the car by losing a lb on your wheels. Jesus fucking christ… why does this need to be explained? We dont live in 1500 bc, this should be common knowledge.

  7. Yes, wheel weight is important. A large, heavy flywheel is harder to spin from stationary and harder to stop once momentum is up than a smaller flywheel. I prefer smaller wheels generally (I like small, lightweight sportscars and zipping through forest roads – calling for constantly changing speeds and direction), but I do have to admit – bigger wheels allow for larger brakes and that is definitely a positive when high performance tuning.

  8. It's not only wheel weight. But the tire+wheel weight. I had 17×8 PF01 + 235/40R17 Ziis weight 43lb each corner, vs factory 17×7 and 205/45R17 potenza S04 weight 37lbs. Factory set up is noticeably lighter, engine have less load, rev up faster. Although I like the wide wheel look and ultimate lateral grip of my 17×8 set up, car feels faster with 17x7s. But I only had 160hp. If you have 500hp, I doubt you can feel the difference as much.

  9. I bought new wheels and tires on my car😎. Tires were garbage on OEM wheels, I bought Continental DWS06 Tires, daily driver G35 coupe. great Summer rain winter combo. Sitting on Rohana RC10's.

  10. Some people like to use stock size wheels with relatively thick sidewall instead of upsized wheels with thinner side walls because rubber is lighter than metal. (Given you do the correct aspect ratios and the whole wheel/tire diameter stays the same and disregard the thicker side wall flex during hard cornering for now)
    Is rubber that much lighter than, say, forged metal??
    I work at a luxury car dealership and change tires rather often, some times I pick up a wheel by itself and surprise myself how light the wheel is, but it feels much heavier with the tires on, so it got me thinking.

  11. @4 min plus explaining regarding the weight of the wheel is better off at the center and so on got me confuse… the comparison was center to center?

  12. Cars and Coffee dudes be like saving 6oz per wheel to shave a thousandth of a second off pulling into their parking space.

  13. Totally missed the most important aspect for a road car – ride quality. Heavier wheels won't move over bumps as easily, making a harsher ride. And this can play into suspension control too (taking longer to slow down, reverse and recontact the road).

  14. Rotational mass is EXTREMELY important. Rotational mass translates to rotational and gyroscopic inertia, my mortal enemies.

  15. Guess I need to lookup the wieght of "14 steel wheels and "15 alloy to get the specific answer I'm considering. Also are heavier steelies better in the snow?

  16. The thing is, the better driver your are and the more cars you start to drive, the more and more you feel the small changes in a car.

  17. incomplete video. you didn't mention cars with TPMS dammit. if you have that inside your wheel, you better get the wheel balanced before mounting on car or you'll vibrate at freeway speeds and can even wear out the tire unevenly at lower speeds when you may or may not feel the difference

  18. Cornering, acceleration and braking improved a lot after I switched from 25 lbs stock wheels to 17 lbs Konig Ultraform wheels on my Scion. I do not race, but my commute is way more enjoyable now.

  19. I went from 30lb wheel/tires to 35lb ones on a 2200lb 1991 Toyota AE92 and it was dramatically different. Acceleration was way slower and I started getting 24mpg down from 30mpg. Really surprised me. Granted the car only has around 100hp but the heavier setup really ruined the fun and zippy feel of the car around town and in the forest roads.

  20. OEM: 225/60R18 @7" => 245/45R20 @8.5" that was a lighter wheel despite the size increase. It's not an exact 1:1 comparison because of different tire brand, size, width, etc. but the biggest thing I noticed was when the car was coasting on the highway (rolling w/o throttle), once up to speed, it took longer for the heavier wheels to slow down, and the lighter ones slowed down notably faster.

    0-60 and 60-0 was not notably different. Initial testing of 60-0 was actually worse, but that may have had something to do with alignment and setups (more camber = worse braking).

    Cornering was also a big difference, but that had more to do with the width of tire than weight.

  21. I removed my stock mazda 5 five spoke, which weighed 24.9 lbs each. And installed a set of Miata club v spoke wheels that weighed 17.5 each, the difference in handling and grip was pretty noticeable. The real ride quality improved too , as did braking and turn in. If you can save 5 or More lbs per wheel you will feel the difference in a positive way. It looks better to with about a 10 mm offset that widens the stance.

  22. I just recently found out that wheel weight is very important a month or two ago upgraded my wheels from 18 X 7 and 1/2 to 18 x 8 and that half an inch sure did a lot of weight my car now takes longer to to accelerate and my fuel economy has went down if I had known then what I know now I would have just stayed at the regular with

  23. tires should go hand in hand with wheel weight do to side wall stiffness some cars suck with certain tires that are suppose to be amazing

  24. Jumped the gun and bought cast 19×8.5 wheels that weight 28lbs…haven't had them for a month and I'm selling them to move to some rotary forged Konig wheels that are bigger at 19×9.5 but are only 21lbs per wheel…that's 7lbs lighter on each corner, saving 28 pounds of spinning aluminum in the barrel…I think that's worth the price of admission lol, thanks for the additional clarification!

  25. Okay you guys provided me with some good info but I have a question on a particular weight on a set of wheels I'm very interested in. The weight per wheel is a whopping 37 lbs. without tire. Can my 9th gen Accord handle the weight of both the 37 lbs. of the wheel then the added weight of whatever tire I select? What would be your move in this situation passing on the selected wheel ( which is a 20×9 +35 )? I for one really am thinking about passing on them because the weight bothers me but I love said wheel and would like some feedback from those experienced. Don't want to strain tranny or any other parts the can be negatively affected by the added weight. Sorry for the long story lol.

  26. Do spacers/adapters affect the bore weight as mentioned in the video? Alex mentions forged because it lessens the weight at the wheels center, which is more important, so would adapters be adding weight to this area?

  27. I got a 2018 ram sport a few months ago. It came with the R/T style 22×9 wrapped in Fortera 285 45R22. They weigh in at 90 lbs each. I'd love to shave off some poundage. But there are so few options for a sport touring type concave style of wheel for a dodge ram. It's been lowered 3/5 so the big offroad wheels with a -50 offset are out of the question. LOL!

  28. Im loking at new wheels for my camaro 2ls. The Stock wheels are about 31 pounds each, if i get wheels that are about 8-10 pounds lighter, should i expect to notice a signifigant difference in acceleration?

  29. Well.. Interesting science there.. Anyhow, Wheel weight would matter i guess if you're gonna fit 2 or 3 inches bigger rims than stock oem… I used to get a lot of wheel spin and locks under braking with my jdm stock 14".. Then those went away when i put on 17's, but the downside is the car couldnt sprint as quick as it used to.. Its a silly sacrifice on performance going 2-3 wheel sizes above stock, heh. Maybe i need lighter expensive 17's or engine upgrade (sigh).

  30. How's this sound.

    To people who run track or drag race etc the lighter the better no matter the cost if your really into it

    Show cars can run whatever the fuck they want like big heavy and sometimes ugly wheel because they take looks over practicality and preformence.

    Racers just use what is best for preformence.

  31. I can save over 11lbs per corner by going with hypergrams and conti tires over my factory wheels on my ST. I just dont know if its going to be worth it. I dont autox or racecar

  32. The benefits of lower unsprung weight is more noticeable on roads that are not as smooth. Less unsprung weight is easier for the dampers to accurately control. This translates to the tires making or maintaining better traction with the road surface. Lighter wheel/tire packages also have better gyroscopic properties (motorcyclist know this all to well) making it easier to transition steering angles.

  33. I saved 17 pounds per wheel by changing my 17X8 in. cast aluminum wheels and 235/55×17 tires to 16×7 in (stock size) 16.28 lb "flow forged" alloy Konigs w/225/60 -16 Goodyears. Difference of night and day with the same overall diameter. Better acceleration, better gas mileage, better cornering and braking. VERY "noticeable." difference.
    All other things being equal, Bigger wheels=heavier wheels + bigger & heavier tires= Higher rotational mass = s-l-o-w-e-r.
    Here's the formula: BW=Hw+B&Ht = HRM = VS
    (I don't work for Konig) I don't race or drift, these are on my daily driver, and I do sometimes drive hard and fast. Fitment Ind. is where I buy my wheels, but they are very hard to do business with, especially on the phone. They have great prices and a broad selection – as does CarID – excellent place to do business – great on the phone, excellent, personable, professional, helpful staff. But a little more $ than Fitment Ind. Tire rack is ok, but narrower selection and much higher prices.

  34. 1-2lbs weight shave per wheels compare to stock, the difference is minimal, but 7-10lbs ? Yes the difference is significant. It’s all depends on your need.

  35. Yes, wheel weight matters. It might shave .004 seconds off your 1/4 mile. Sometimes, that matters. But in the aspect of normal driving and just having fun, no, it doesn't help you in anyway. In fact having heavier wheels can be beneficial too.

  36. I'd like to see some quantification to balance the abundance of qualified comments here. Differences in lateral grip, acceleration, braking, lap times, slalom speed, smoothness, durability…

  37. So would a twenty-seven pound seventeen inch wheel have the same rotational mass as a twenty-three pound nineteen inch wheel?

  38. How about going from a 19×8 tsw snetterton at 29lbs, to a 19×8.5 konig rennform at 21lbs for a daily driver. Is the 8lb difference worth making the change?

  39. Thank you! Most stock rims are cast rims and weigh in at 30 – 35lb. Going with a Rohana is 25lb. Thats 40lbs off rotational mass of the vehicle transmission fly wheel, and other related components. I wish you would of talked about that difference in the example? 35lb rims to a 25 lb. Correct to say it would add in speed take off and reduce engine/trans energy . That is pretty huge per wheel factor. I called FITMENT and talked to one of your guys about going with a 20 Rohana, and a 245 40 20 instead of a 245 35 20, to have more side wall for better driving and avoiding pot hole damage. It only adds a 1lb extra in tire weight, adds more revolutions in the tire revolution per mile, but saves 10 lbs per wheel= 40lbs total off the start…wouldn't that work just the same as going with a 245 35 20 and a heavy 20 inch rim? And wouldn't it be better to just stick with a lighter 19 inch rim, and 245 40 19 saving in rotation mass? Thank you!!

  40. If you clearly notice the improvement of moving a battery to the trunk in a 3400# car, then you might want to be a bit critical in wheel weight. TWO THINGS MISSED: Jounce frequency of the suspension or relation K/M and then there is gyro on turn-in where racers do feel the difference between iron and carbon brake rotors – think of the massive rotors in cars nowadays – these are almost as heavy as a crankshaft flywheel. ANOTHER place weight needs shaved. (If you have carbon rotors, then you really want light wheels in keeping with what you just spent on the rotors.) But when you start talking ounces, then you better be Formula 1.

  41. I tried light racing wheels on my MR2 SW20 and several things to note: 1. It would break traction in 1st, annoyingly so because that killed the awesome take-off traction it had. 2. Over potholes it was a dream. I could literally go over potholes at a decent speed and the suspension would just sort everything out.
    I eventually went back to the bigger heavier wheels. I guess with my particular setup and not taking into account wheel widths and compounds etc 1st gear would just hook reliably each and every time. Unfortunately potholes would sound like you crashed into something at anything faster than a crawl.

  42. I had a 98 Jetta that I put 17” tsw imolas on in place of the factory wheels. The handling felt better but it felt slower and took away about 7-8 mpg. Not sure what the weight difference was between the two but it must have been a bit to rob that many mpgs. I loved the look and kept them on for years, to me the look was more important than performance because it wasn’t a fast car anyway.

  43. Little question. If I change my actualy wheels for lighter ones, and the weight difference is around 14 pounds per wheel. Can I expect a diffrence I will be able to feel ?

  44. Big one people don't realize, as you said. The furthest from the hub to greater the effect. What's furthers from the hub, the tire.

    Do tires vary in weight? Hell yes.
    You can shave 2-4lbs from the most crucial area of rotating mass.

  45. Wheel size matters because it affects gearing. Like the 450 horsepower raptor is slow for how much power it has ( 8.5 0-60 )

  46. Thats just what I thought. Thanks for the video! The car rims and tyres just act like a flywheel and the bigger the diameter of your rims, the larger your flywheel. Some car magazine did a test using GPS, which the exact same car, same fuel level, chill wind speeds, exactly the same tyre diameter but different rim sized and weights. The 16" OEM rims were 3 seconds faster from 0-200 km/h than the 19" wheels. Partly because of the weight, but also because on smaller rim diameters the weight of the rim sits closer to the rotation center of your wheel.

    Try to start rotationg a 1 kilo steel bar with a 3 cm diameter, then try to rotate a 1 kilo flywheel with a 30 cm diameter. They both weight one kilo, but the flywheel is way harder to get turning. This is because on the outside of the diameter, the mass of the steel bar (3 cm) just has to travel ~9.5 centimeters until you reach a full revolution. Using a 30 centimeter flywheel, the material has to travel ~95 centimeters to do a full revolution. Now imagine mounting the steel bar and the fly wheel onto an electric drill and try to accelerate both in the same time to 100 RPM. The flywheel will take way much power from your drill, and even a longer time to accelerate. The same principle applies to your car. The heavier the rims, the more power you need to start spinning them to a specific speed. And the more power you need to spin them up, the less power of your engine is actually applied to the road to accelerate your car.

    Another example: Light weight racing flywheels for your engine can increase power up to 5 hp. This is not because you just saved a kilo of weight. This is because your engine doesn't need as much power revving it up. This means there is more power available on your tyres to actually accelerate.

    Personally, with my ~250 hp Focus ST MK2, I can feel every pessenger. With one passanger i don't feel a huge difference in acceleration or when get the car rolling from a stand. However when there are 3 more people inside my car, I really feel that the acceleration is way worse and also taking off from standing is much more demanding for the clutch. I got some rims which are 5 kilograms lighter than my old wheels. Same diameter and size. But Over all I safed 21 kilograms on all 4 wheels. When I accelerate or get off the clutch to get the car moving from standing, then it just feels like another 80 Kilo person got off my car, except I'm already alone.

    It really makes a difference. Not the 21 kilos total weight loss of my car, but the 21 kilos that don't need to be set into rotation any longer…

  47. I just changed my set of wheels 13 pounds heavier per wheel.. it is absolutly very very big difference.. ! i don't recomend to anyone to put on heavier wheels..!

  48. I laughed at all the useless ricer shit this video offered, but I'm glad you specifically pointed out that rotational weight is important. However, less weight on the drive-train overall, means more power because of less drive-train loss. Lighter axles, hubs, rotors, wheels, and even tires means more power to the ground from the drive-train. This is even more important on FWD and AWD cars, not as much for RWD cars.

  49. I just replaced my factory wheels and tires (20×8.5 w/ 245/40R20 Potenza's) on my electric car with Enkei`s RPF1 18×8 and 235/50R18 Michelin Energy Saver's. My weight at each corner went from 65lbs to 43lbs. The resulting range improved by 30%-52% depending on my driving style at the time and oh… my acceleration is very noticeable.

    Although this is more of a racing/sport thread here, the fact that I have seen a dramatic improvement in efficiency confirms to me that weight does matter.

  50. Rotational mass is key. Great to save weight with wheels, but look at the tires first. These factors seem to make a bigger difference with an AWD car. We've dyno'd lightweight Baer rotors, along with light wheels/tires in the Evolution community and saw consistent gains. On my own Evo IX, we dropped close to 35lbs of rotational mass. It's a difference you can feel. Not necessarily as speed, rather as a more nimble, more tossablle machine.

  51. There's always a line of diminishing returns. I'm looking to a forged wheel for my car. Not because I'm counting every gram, but because my stock wheel and tire combo is over 60lbs a piece. If I can get into an athletically pleasing wheel that shaves 12 lbs off each corner not including tires I'm gonna do it. It's the guys who go through wheel after wheel looking to, like you said, shave half a pound that irritate me. Also I appreciate you touching on rotational mass and comparing it to the sprung vs unsprung. So many people on YouTube are trying to educate others and are constantly referring to wheels and tires as unsprung weight when in reality its no different than a lightweight flywheel or driveshaft in terms of how it actually affects the vehicle in question.

  52. All I care about , They are the wheel I wan't for looks and can hold the eventual 1000HP I plan to have. Some of the nice wheels will be destroyed by 1000HP .

  53. Imma shave 80lbs off total by taking my 22's off and going down to 18's @20lbs each. lol Put that in your pipe and smoke it.

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