Today we talk about tires. It’s a very important part on your bycicle. I will give you the basics about tires and rims and in the end, I will also show you how to mount a tubeless set-up and if you have a flat in the woods, ill show you the options to fix it. The function of the bead is to keep the tire in contact with the rim while it is inflated. We have three types of bead. First of all, there is the wire bead. It is made of steal. We have folding bead which is made of aramid and kevlar. It’s very handy to travel with it because you can fold the tire. It’s also a lighter version. And then we also have a carbon fiber bead. This one’s even stronger for high pressure, especially for road tires. The casing is either a single-ply or a double-ply. The single version is a little bit lighter and softer and the dual-ply is stronger and harder. It’s more for enduro and downhill cyclists. The Rubber Compound is one of the most important parts. We have single compound, dual compound and even a triple compound. Single is clear, the hole tire is made of one compound. Dual is harder in the middle. And the triple has even three compunds in there. The puncture technology is a layer between the casing. We in the SCOTT-SRAM Team always use the EXO. The EXO is located in the side wall, it’s a bead up to the thread. and it is a strong, lightweight and flexible side-wall protection. It’s highly recommended for normal rides as well as for races. The tire pressure depends on the riders weight, the system and the style of riding and also the terrain. It will be unstable if it’s set to high and it is going to be very hard if it it set too soft, you’ll damage the tires, rims and wheelset. Let’s talk about the tubeless system. I would suggest a setting of 1.5 BAR in the front and in the back 1.6 BAR This is how we do it. Put your bike on the floor. Use your thumb Put it on the tire. Then, with your whole body weight you push it through. It is a good sign if you break your finger because then its too hard. If you feel the rim it is too soft. So you should actually press it with your whole body weight in the middle of the system. The team only uses tubeless systems. The benefit of this is that you can ride it with less air, you have more flex on the tire that gives you a better control on the trail. It is also quite handy with the sealant. If you have a thorn or a little cut. It fixes itself. The first step is to clean out the surface of the rim. Just to make sure that the tape is sticking well on it. I use a degreaser to clean it. I start taping the rim tape 10 or 20cm before the valve hole. And then I go around and overlap it also 10 to 20cm just to have it really sealed on this area. In the next step, I press in the valve whole. I heat a needle with a lighter to easily melt through the tape and not crack it. Then you put it in and tighten it. Then your wheel is good to go. Afterwards you have to pout the tire on on one side, then on the other side. Leave some space open to put in the sealant. Meassure the sealant, put it in, close it and then pump it up. Very easy. But make sure that you are not pumping it up too much. My tip is: Never put more pressure in it than two bars. Just to make sure the carcass stays in one piece and is not cracking up. So the tire will be very straight. If the bead is not nicely jumping up to the rim hook on 2 BARS, just use your hands to give a little bit of side pressure and it will jump out easily. A handy trick: If the tire doesn’t seal, press it on the floor and roll it. Then it will be much easier for you to pump it up A lot of people want to seal it while spinning it. It won’t help you guys, because while your spinning the liquid sealant will go to the top and we sealed our tire already. You need the liquid between the bead and the rim. So I play basketball while turning the wheel slowly. With this move you seal it up. Maintaining a tubeless system is very easy. Take your wheels off your bike. Shake it well. And you can hear liquids shaking inside. If it is already dried out you probably won’t hear anything. I recommend to change the sealant after two to three months. My trick is to take the tire off on one side. Take it out and clean it until it is proper. Put new sealant in there, close it, inflate it and then you’re good to go. I never put the sealant in the valve because it glues it up. Fixing a tubeless wheel is much easier than a tube. If you have a cut on the sidewall, and there are cool options around, Dynaplug or Sahmurai that you can put in like a worm. To fill the hole up and the sealant in there seals it up porperly. If you have such a big hole that can’t fix it, then you have to put a tube in there. Take the valve out and make sure it’s all clean in there. By clean I mean clean from throns and other sharp objects. After that put the tube in there, but you have to cover the big cut. Otherwise the tube will stick out and will explode. You can actually use quite a lot of stuff so either you put some money between the tube and the hole or a banana skin or a bar wrapper. Any kind of stuff can help you. Put the tube in and something in between and you’re good to go. Now the wheel is fixed. I hope I helped you a little bit. Now you can go back on the trail. Ride on!