How to Replace Steel Brake Lines : Removing Steel Axle Brake Lines & Hoses

How to Replace Steel Brake Lines : Removing Steel Axle Brake Lines & Hoses


In this clip we’re going to talk about the
proper service procedure to inspect, remove and replace your steel brake lines and bleed
the braking system on a Ford Explorer. In this step I’m going to demonstrate the proper
method to remove your steel axle lines and brake hose from the differential. I have a
socket and a ratchet here. I’m going to slip behind and begin unscrewing the mounting bolt.
Both rear steel brake lines screw into the brake hose. It’s not necessary to disassemble
the lines from the hose. What we’re going to do is remove the mounting bolt for the
hose and pull the lines and hose out together. This Ford Explorer takes a thirteen millimeter
socket and the mounting nut is located right on top of the differential. Take and break
it loose and screw it out. All right, there?s my mounting bolt right
there. Let me go ahead and put it in my tray and begin to remove the axle line and hose
assembly. I have a parking brake cable I need to unclip, which is right here. It will just
pop off. All right, I got that unclipped; I’m going
to fold my brake lines down and towards me. Don’t worry about kinking these ones. We’re
going to replace the whole assembly. I need to unhook my anti-lock brake sensor from the
wiring clip, not from the sensor itself, just from the clip. All right and there we go. This is the driver’s
side rear brake line; this is the passenger side rear brake line. This is the hose mounting
block. This is where it mounts to the top of the rear differential and this is the wiring
clip that holds your anti-lock brake sensor wire up off the drive shaft. The hose runs
up here into an upper portion of the body. That is the proper method for removing the
rear axle lines and the brake hose mounting bracket.

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  1. HEY CAN YOU HELP ME OUT WITH SOMETHING IF MY REAR BRAKE LINES PIERCE CAN I WELD THE FITTING AT THE MASTER CYLINDER TO CASNCEL OUT THAT BRAKE plz help me

  2. im no expert but logically i can't see why not, however from what info i've dug up about master cylinders you'll probably need to drain the fluid out of the cancelled piston and block the input from the reseviour, otherwise i reckon you'd end up compressing the fluid against the weld and preventing the brake pedal from functioning. Again, no expert so PLEASE do not attempt this until someone can confirm or tell me different.

  3. hey Nathan

    thanks for the videos, and i like your explanations ,they are nice and clear, i got a question for you,how do i know if my pressure plate needs replacing, why, because , every time i drive like 30 km, i loose pressure on my clutch, i replaced my slave cylinder and i bled it, so do you think i didnt bleed it well or what?

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