How To Remove & Install Rear Wheel – Harley Davidson Softail

How To Remove & Install Rear Wheel – Harley Davidson Softail


Hey, so this is another video by Pet Rock.
Today I’m working on my ’06 Harley Night Train. It’s an FXSTBI. Today I’m going to be replacing
the rear tire. As you can see I’ve gotten it pretty well down to bare metal. The rear
tire on this bike is a radial. So it’s got steal belts inside. And no I don’t do burn
outs. I just ride my bike a lot. This is my daily driver. I’ve got about, yeah, 76 thousand
miles and change. ’06 was the first year that they came out with the 200mm rear tire. I
think they are still using it. I’m not sure. Removing the rear tire is a little bit different
then it was on previous years because the brake caliper being pretty much inside the
well of the tire. So I need to remove the tire and get a new one. So for those of you
who don’t think you can use the entire tire with a 200mm rear end just check this out.
There is like maybe, I think that’s like a half inch of virgin tire on the back of this
bike. So the first thing you’ve got to do is you’ve got to jack the bike up. I’m using
a Craftsman motorcycle jack. I’ve had it since I bought this bike back in ’06 when I bought
it new and haven’t had any problems with it. Anyways, so once you get it in the air I can’t
stress enough putting tie down straps onto the bike to make sure it is secure. Because
you are going to be wiggling around and also changing the weight distribution once you
remove the rear tire you don’t want this bike falling off the jack. You want to have it
strapped down nicely so it doesn’t fall off. So the way I strap it down is I take a towel
and I put it behind the head light. Snake it over top all the wires and then I put my
tie down strap over top that towel. This makes it so that the tie down strap doesn’t crimp
the wires and potentially damage them. So I wanted to make a note of how I have this
bike jacked up. On Softails there is a shock here and shock there that actually go below
the frame rail. You don’t want to have the floor jack so far back that your floor jack
is holding the bike up from the shocks. So you want it just barely ahead of the shocks
like it is here. Harley does make, and the aftermarket also makes, a little plastic rails
that you can put on the frame in order to protect it I guess. However this jack stand,
it has rubber mounts on the top so I don’t have to worry about that. So if you go by
the service manual, the service manual is going to have you undo the lock nut here and
move this bolt out which will basically, will make this whole axle be able to move forward
and back. But when you have to put it all back together again you have to realign the
rear tire. You don’t need to do any of that. You can actually remove the rear tire without
affecting the adjustment on the belt or anything like that. So anyway, so the first thing you
need to do is you need to remove the rock guards from around the belt. There’s half
inch little bullet castle nut things. There is one nut right back in here. You can see
the head right here that you need to loosen. You don’t need to remove it all the way in
order to get this bottom plastic guard off. It’s also a half inch. This is where ratchet
wrenches come in handy. Ok, here is where the tricky part of this job comes in. It’s
really not that tricky, but some people do tend to have a problem with it. And that is
removing the rear brake caliper. Unlike other models where the tire is narrower on these
200mm rear end Harley’s that came this way from the factory the brake caliper and the
rotor are actually inset into the rim. So you can’t just drop the tire like on other
models and have no problems with clearance. In this case you have to remove the brake
caliper. To remove the caliper you need to remove this bolt, and this bolt right here.
Now depending on the type of exhaust you have, your exhaust may prevent those bolts from
coming out freely. This top bolt here is relatively short. So that one might come out pretty easily.
But the one on the bottom is about, I’d say, three inches long if memory serves. You either
have to remove your exhaust in order to remove that bottom bolt or you can just loosen up
your exhaust bolts a little bit and pull the exhaust out slightly. If you have a shorty
exhaust where the exhaust doesn’t come out this far you can just remove this bolt without
any problems. In my case the exhaust comes out and it gets in the way. This is like the
sixth or seventh time I’ve replaced the rear tire on this bike and each time before that
I’ve done the method where I’ve pulled the exhaust out slightly by just loosening the
bolts in the front and loosening the bolt on the bottom and pulling it out. This has
worked very well and I’ve had no problems no exhaust leaks no thing. But since I’ve
done it so many times I’m starting to feel like I’m pressing my luck so I’m going to
this time I’m going to remove the exhaust completely and I’m also going to replace the
exhaust gaskets. You don’t need to replace the exhaust gaskets on your bike unless they
are actually damaged or worn or crumbling. Ok once you’ve got the exhaust off it might
be a good idea to look inside the exhaust port and have a look at the valve stems. They
should be white similar to those with a little bit of blackness is ok. You don’t want to
see them shiny or full of oil. That means you have a valve stem leak which means you
need to take the top end of your motor apart and get new valve stem seals. Its not an impossible
job. Not a hard job necessarily, it’s just annoying. You can also see after six or seven
times of me wiggling the exhaust in and out the exhaust gaskets still look pretty good.
But I’m still going to replace them. So now that the exhaust is off I’ve got all this
room to work in here. So the first thing I would advise doing is to take a paint scraper
or similar and put it between the pad and the rotor and try to pry out a little bit
on it. Just to compress the piston slightly. You want to do it both on the outside and
the inside pads. Be sure not to gauge your rotor. It doesn’t take a lot. Just move it
a little bit. And also do it from the bottom. And now to removing the caliper a little bit
easier you want to remove your brake pads. And that is done by removing these two bolts
right here. They are a quarter inch twelve point socket. Once you have them loose like
that there will be spring pressure on them from the pads and the spring that’s back here
built into the caliper. So they won’t come out that easily. You mainly use some kind
of pryer or just use a pair of pliers just don’t try to mar them up to bad and they will
come right out. Just even pressure and they will come out like that. You want to keep
track of which side is which because these only go in one way. They may look similar
like they will go in two different ways but they will only going in one way so keep track
of which way they came out and put them back in the same way. Next you remove the two mounting
bolts for the caliper. They are twelve point 10mm. The short one goes on top. Just keep
track of which bolts are which. They’re different lengths. And the long one is the one on the
bottom. So as you can see this one is pretty long and it would not have come out if the
exhaust was in place. I would have pulled out the exhaust a half inch or so in order
to get access. So now the caliper is loose. You can just slide it out of the way and rest
it on the top of your passenger foot peg. Ok now we move over to the left side of the
bike to remove the safety pin for the rear castle nut. It’s fairly easy to remove. You
just take a screw driver and pull up. And there it goes. Just make sure you find it
when it bounces on the floor and goes off into the nether region of your garage. There
is mine. So next you get a 24mm or a 15/16ths socket and spin this castle nut off. If this
castle nut starts to spin with the shaft inside, with the axle inside, just get another 15/16ths
socket or a 24mm socket and put it on the other end of the axle where there is also
a hex head. And that will stabilize the axle as you spin this off. So these are on here
with some force so be careful and don’t knock the bike off the stand when you loosen this
up. It might help to use a breaker bar or a cheater bar. and remove it all the way.
And include the spacers for the belt adjustment. Ok I’ve found to remove the axle it is easiest
to get some of the pressure off of it from the tire so I usually put a jack underneath.
Just a little bit of pressure you don’t want a lot, you don’t want to again lift the bike
off the jack. Just a little bit of pressure. Just enough to lessen the weight on the axle
shaft and you just want to pop it. Just about an inch or so like that. So that the axle
pops out a little bit like this so that now this bolt right here is not pushing against
the axle. That makes it so you can push it forward slightly so that it will loosen up
the belt on the other side. Ok now that you’ve got the axle pushed forward a little bit on
both sides you’ll have a lot more slack on the belt. So what you want to do is put the
bike into neutral so that the rear tire will spin freely. So now we need to remove the
belt and you do that by pulling this way on the belt and rotating the tire backwards.
Making sure not to get your fingers caught between it and the sprocket. That’s it. So
now that the belt is off you want to take the weight off the axle again and remove the
axle completely. So when you remove the axle there is one spacer on each side of the tire.
The long one is on the left side and the other one is right here. This silver part. When
you pull the axle those will most likely just drop. So just keep an eye on them so that
they don’t go off into no mans land. Ok with the weight of the rear tire held up by the
floor jack I can with some mild force just pull out the axle. Like that. Now the rear
wheel is completely loose you also want to remove this bracket right here that the caliper
was attached to. Now that the tire is completely free you can lower it on the floor jack and
take it the rest of the way out. So once you have the wheel out you also want to check
the wheel bearings. And make sure that they rotate nice and smooth. That there is no sticking
points. That it’s not making any noise and there is no lateral or vertical or horizontal
movement. If there is that means you need new wheel bearings. So what you also want
to do is you want to inspect your axle. So you want to clean off any grease or any anti-seize
that’s on it. And then inspect it for any wear marks where the bearings are for example.
If you can feel it with your finger nail that means this axle would be garbage and you need
to get a new one. So another thing I like to do is after I’ve taken the axle off I like
to put the parts that were on it back on in the order that they came off. Cause sometimes
getting a new tire put on can take a little while. In my case it’s about 1 in the morning
and this isn’t going to get done until maybe tomorrow if I get time before going to work.
So I don’t want the parts getting kicked around or whatever. You have the small spacer. Then
you have the large spacer. Then you have the adjuster washer thing. Then you have the washer
for the axle nut. Then you have the axle nut itself. And now you take the wheel to your
local shop, have them put on the new tire and we’ll be right back. Ok, through the magic
of video editing, I now have a new tire on my, on my rim. It’s a Metzeler ME880 200/55R17.
It’s also a good idea to clean your wheel before putting it on. But since my bike is
already so dirty already, and I’m probably going to clean it in the next week or two
if I get around to it. And my cat Vinny, he might help. We have wild life.So now
we are going to remount the tire and the order of operations is essentially the reverse of
what you did to remove it. With some slight differences. So next you want to get the tire
back up on the jack and inside the swing arm. You just want to hack it up till the hole
for the bearing is about lined up with the hole for the swing arm. So once you have it
up double check that your belt is still free. You don’t want it pinched in here or anything
like that. Next you want to reinstall the brake caliper bracket. Clean it off.Make sure
there is nothing, no gunk, damage or wear. Make sure it’s not cracked of course. You
want to double check that this little rubber insert is still intact and not worn off. Otherwise
your brakes are going to chatter when you apply the brakes. That little rubber insert
is a little bit of a shock absorber to prevent the brake rotor from vibrating as your riding
down the road. You also want to wipe off and clean the mounting, mating surface. And what
I like to do is add a little bit of brake caliper grease, you can pick this up at any
local auto parts store. Take a little bit of it and just put it on the little rubber
nub inside of this bracket for two reasons. One it aids in the installation so it will
just slide on easier. Two it will help prevent the rubber from getting all cracked and worn
out from repeated heat cycles and things like that. Now the reason you want to use brake
caliper grease as apposed to regular chassis grease or other types of greases is that brake
caliper grease will not damage rubber. Standard chassis grease will deteriorate rubber over
time. It will degrade it. You don’t want to do that. You want to keep this rubber intact
for as long as possible. Knowing Harley, this thing is probably 400 bucks. So just take
a little grease and put it in there. That’s it. So now you just take the bracket and snake
it through and slide it into place. Try to line it up a little bit with the end of this
bolt so you don’t have to keep moving it back and forth when you try to reinstall the axle.
So before you start putting the axle in you’re going to need to put the large spacer in on
the left side of the tire. If you start sliding the axle in you’re not going to be able to
get enough room in here to be able to insert this without bending out the swing arm. So
the way I do it is I just set it up, put this in and then put a screw driver in to line
it up and make sure it doesn’t fall out as I’m trying to get the axle shaft in. Next
you want to put a nice coating of anti-seize on the sooth part of the shaft. Not on the
threads, but on the smooth part. The reason for that is this metal is not the same as
this metal here. Nor is it the same as the tube inside the tire that this rides inside.
So dissimilar metals have a tendency to weld themselves together. Anti-seize is used to
prevent things like that. So as per the service manual you put a light coating of anti-seize
on. It doesn’t take a lot. You just spread it out over the entire axle shaft. Ok now
that you’ve got anti-seize over your axle shaft you want to start putting things back
together again. So you put the washer for the adjuster. Start sliding the axle into
place. Take the small spacer slide it into place. Get it hooked onto the axle shaft.
Move the tire into place. So now we have to put the belt on. So like before we don’t want
the axle all the way out. We want it like this so that it can move forward like that.
So you want to move the jack out of the way because you’re going to need to rotate the
tire a little bit. So you want to take the belt just like you took it off. Put it into,
making sure it goes into the grooves in here rotate the tire and you’re done. So now you
want to put the jack back underneath again. Just for a second. Take a little bit of pressure
off the axle. And push it the rest of the way through. Now you can remove the jack.
So now you need to install the adjuster washer. This little notch in it right here. That notch
needs to match up with the end of this bolt. Same thing on the other side. You want the
notch on that side to also be lined up. You want it to be that way right now as you’re
trying to get everything together. So you want to push the axle back, slide the washer
on like that. Next get the regular washer and put that on. Now take the castle nut and
put that on. So now you just want to tighten up the castle nut. Again, it is a 24mm or
a 15/16″ socket. Just tighten it up until it starts getting stiff and then start using
a torque wrench. The torque spec for this is 60 to 65 ft/lbs. I like to take torque
specs and cut them in half, or 62. Once you’ve got it torqued down to whatever spec it is
you want you check to see if the hole in the axle shaft lines up with the castle nut holes.
If it doesn’t then continue tightening its lightly just enough to get the hole to line
up. You don’t want to go above 65 ft/lbs otherwise you’ll be putting too much of a bind on the
bearings and you’ll burn them up. In this case I could probably twist it just a little
bit more just to get it to where I need it to be. So I’l take my breaker bar. Make sure
that the wheel still spins freely and that it tracks nice. Next you want to take the
spring clip that you took off earlier. Slide the straight edge through the hole. Ok, now
you have to put in the belt guards. I always like to bolts back where they came from so
they are easy to find. This part right here hooks into a nut that is right over here.
So you just slide it in. Catch on the nut. Push down. Now it’s in. Loosely put the bottom
nut, the bottom bolt I should say in. Now you take the top. Take the bolts out of it.
Then you slide this from the back to the front. And loosely put the bolts in by hand. Again
don’t strip them. Then take a half inch socket and tighten everything down. So what I do
is press on this bottom plastic part so it seats itself within this nut over hear. And
I tighten down the back one first. Then I take a half inch ratchet or half inch ratcheting
wrench. Drop it on the floor. Realize you are tightening the wrong way. Snug it down.
On the back I should say. Tighten up the back one. Put the wrench on the back of the bolt
and tighten it down. So there isn’t a torque spec for these bolts. The service manual literally
just says tighten them. Nothing else. So just snug them down real good. So now we’ve got
to reinstall the brake caliper. Before doing that you want to inspect the caliper pistons.
Making sure that they are not damaged or dirty or anything like that. It would be a good
idea to get a can of brake clean and spray the center of this. Wipe it out with a good
rag before reinstalling. You also want to depress the pistons slightly. It will make
installing the pads that much easier. Unless you are replacing the pads with new ones you
don’t need to bottom them out. You just need to move them in just to make your existing
pads slide in easier. So you take your bolt and take a little dab. That much. It’s all
you need. Slide the brake caliper into place. Slide the bolt into place. Screw it in a couple
threads. Apply a little bit of anti-seize to the threads of the top bolt. Screw it into
place. And then you just tighten it down with a 10mm 12 point. The torque spec for these
is 28 to 38 ft/lbs. Or just snug them down real good. Don’t go too far because, again,
the caliper is just aluminum. You don’t want to strip the bolts out. So next you want to
clean and inspect the slide pins for your brake pads. You want to make sure that there
is no pitting or abnormal wear marks. In this case there is a little bit of pitting in the
center part on both pins and there is also a little bit of wear here were it looks like
it is actually worn down to I guess some kind of copper or brass material underneath so
I need to replace these. I’m going to install them now anyway and I’ll order a new set and
install them separately. So you also want to inspect your brake pads. Make sure that
they are in good condition. And there isn’t any abnormal wear. In addition the round part
of the brake pad. So you notice the top is rounded and the bottom is not. The round part
on the rear goes up.This is the pad that goes on the outside. This pad right here is the
pad on the inside. You can tell by the extra tab. So like with any brake job you want to
put a little bit of brake caliper grease on the wear points where the pad slides against
metal within the caliper. And that’s on this rounded edge here and this edge here. You
don’t want to apply too much grease because when you’re sliding the brake pad in you don’t
want to get it on your rotor or on the brake pad material itself. In addition you want
to coat the smooth part, just the smooth part of the slide pin with brake caliper grease.
Give it a good coating. You don’t have to goop it up, just give it a good coat. Next
you want to take your pad, place it against the rotor and slide it into place inside the
caliper. Then take your slide pin and put it into the top hole. Making sure that it
catches on the brake pad. Next you want to lube up the inboard brake pad the same way
you did the outboard one. Again with the rounded point going on the top, you want to slide
your brake pad against the rotor. Slide it into place. And then push the pin in all the
way to hold it in place. Next you want to take the other slide pin and just coat the
smooth part with brake caliper grease. Then you slide your hand or small screw driver
or wrench in here and push against the brake pad to push it in and then slide the pin in
under the first one. Then do the same thing on the back side. So before pushing the pins
in all the way and screwing them in you want to take a little bit of anti-seize and put
a little blob right on the threads. Just a little bit. You don’t have to put a whole
ton of it on there. As we screw in the bolt the threads will spread out the anti-seize
for you. So now you take your quarter inch twelve point socket and tighten down the bolts.
Again you want to use anti-seize on these because they are very small bolt heads and
you don’t want to strip them if they get stuck. You tighten these bolts down to 180 to 200
in/lbs. Not ft/lbs, in/lbs. Which basically just means snug them down real good. Again
they are small you don’t want to strip them. So now that we’ve got the brake caliper back
together again it’s a good idea to pump the brakes a few times to get the pistons to squeeze
the brake pads back together again. Now install your exhaust. As I said earlier the installation
for your exhaust depends entirely on the exhaust that you have. If you’re still running the
stock exhaust it is going to be different then if you are running an aftermarket pipe.
One thing that is the same is that you want to install it from and tighten things down
from the cylinder heads outwards. So you want to bolt up the exhaust manifold bolts first.
Then the next set of bolts on the exhaust pipe outwards toward the tip. This will ensure
that everything is lined up properly. You also don’t want to tighten it down until you
have at least all the bolts started by hand. Ok now that you have the exhaust on you are
almost done. Next think you want to do is take a nice clean cloth and some brake clean
and spray down the cloth and then wipe down the brake rotor, both sides, rotate it a little
bit, to clean up any grease you may have gotten on it when installing it. Or your wheel guy
when he was trying to put the wheel on. If he sprayed any lube on it by accident that
will get it off. Next you take the same cloth, the clean side, spray down a little bit more
of it and give the tire a good wipe down. You want to make sure that there is no oil,
anti-seize, or grease or anything like that on the tire before you actually go for your
first ride. Even though you may have been extremely careful you may have gotten even
a little speck of whatever contaminant on the tire including the lube that the tire
guy uses to get the tire on. The brake cleaner will also have the added benefit of removing
some of the film that is on the tire when it comes from the factory. You are not going
to get all of it off. You don’t need to wipe it down forever and a day. You just give it
a good quick once over and then you are good to go. Then take the bike out for a leisurely
ride. Don’t go hard on it for about 100 miles. Let the tire break in a little bit and wear
through the remainder of that coating that came from the factory. I’ve literally seen
guys getting new tires put on, taking it out for the first time and spin out and loose
control because the tire was too slippery and they were trying to work it to hard. Just
be careful and take it easy. And enjoy your new tire. So I hope this helped you out. If
you have any questions comments or concerns please leave them in the comments section
below. If you liked what you saw click the like button. If you want to see more videos
like this one click subscribe.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. hey pet.. I'm gonna change my brake pads while I'm doing this.. should I open the master cylinder for pressure? Great video thanks

  2. Very good informational video. Thank you. Im about to attempt my first tire change. My bike is a 2009 dyna fat bob. Hope its similar to this replacement. We shall see.

  3. My 2001 FLSTF does not have bolts holding the caliper to the bike. It has a ring on the end of the caliper that the axle goes through. I did pull the pins and yank the old pad out. Even though the pads were at half life I replaced them. Hey for a 20 dollar bill you might as well change the pads while you have the bike apart instead of having the pull the whole thing apart later. It's a lot easier to change the pads with no tire than with the tire since on the 2001 Fatboy the pads are inset into the wheel a little bit.

    Thanks for the video it was Great and help me get started. Actually it does not take all that long and instead of paying like 100 dollars to have a shop take the wheel off I did that myself and took the tire to my cousins shop and he replaced the tire on the rim right away, something that would not happen if I had to bring my bike in as it would have to be scheduled with the other wounded steeds in the area. He only charged me 30 dollars for the tire change.

  4. Thanks for the excellent video!! Very informative. Really appreciate the step by step explanation!! I'm not a Gear head or a bike wrench but I do like to attempt to do stuff on my bike. Thanks again!

  5. That strip isn't called virgin tire it's called a chicken strip ๐Ÿ™‚ all joking aside thanks for the video man. Nice horse BTW

  6. Thank you for making and posting this video. If i couldn't learn and do these types of repairs myself, I wouldn't be able to ride nearly as much!

  7. I wonder what would world travelers on Harley Davidsons do when they have a flat tier in the middle of nowhere. Or on bikes that don't have center stands.
    Amazing video, I enjoyed every second. Thank you for sharing.

  8. Finally, someone who know how to do an instructional video and get straight to the point without useless info. Great job and great know how to video.

  9. hi been following you for some time now, I had an oil question for you a few months back. (my own 06 N.T.)that's fixed!
    Next question: have you ever replaced your rocker box cover gaskets. mine were sweating now there dribbling pretty good. job doesn't seem really hard, but any Info, would be awesome. thanks again. really good videos!

  10. Nicely done video! I'm curious though, with 76,000 miles and the tire already off, wouldn't that be a perfect time to replace the drive belt…prevenative maintenance.

  11. Great Video! Thanks for thanking the time to create it. You have saved me a lot of money on my Night Train!

  12. Could not have said it better than Robert Doran. Now feel very confident that I can do mine! Great video!

  13. Thanks for taking the time to do this video bro. It helps to see someone else complete a project before taking it on yourself. Subscribed.

  14. Damn! Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this video. U saved a lot of people from headaches, cussing, pitching wrenches, knuckle sanding, and host of other stress relieving activities!

  15. Thanks great instructional videos , i picked up a lift like yours and adjusted the clutch and primary tension on my 04 fxsti.Next i will be doing front and rear pads.Dealer did front and rear tires,cause i didnt have a lift ,was 550.00 hell i am spending the kids inheritance lol.. with new tubes and balancing.keep making excellent videos.i also ordered a service manual,by HD. for it.

  16. Did the brake pads no problems,gonna install new fork oil this week.Looks pretty simple per manual.Also on my list is a new clutch pack and cable,and all fluids change.The cheap harbor freight lift more then paid for itself,just in back pain alone on my tired 68 year old body.Hope to see more bike vids, yours are the best i see on here, Thanks

  17. Subscribed off of this first time i watched. Very informative, thank you for the time and effort helping out other riders like myself. Much appreciated.

  18. It was a very nice video very informative but you didn't really talk about belt adjustment or wheel alignment.

  19. Awesome instructional! Had the wheel off in just under an hour, R&R the tire myself and all back together in no time.

    Any tips on the cam chain tensioners?

    2006 Softail Standard. FXSTi

  20. Great video very informative, I just paid $150 Australian to have my new tyre fitted took them 3 hours on 2010 Fat Boy

  21. This was super helpful… thanks so much for putting in the effort to make such a no-BS and informative video. What a PITA. I hope the "engineers" who designed that clusterfsck of a rear wheel setup have all been fired by now.

  22. Good video nice job my have 1 Harley Davidson Fatboy years 2014 my living to Puerto Rico island nice for you video, my beautifu. Job my motorcycle tanks video

  23. 3:08 How about leaving the pads, caliper, etc installed, and just back the bolts securing the brake rotor in place, that should be easier. Or am I missing something?

  24. Another great video tutorial, thank you! You describe what to do in a straightforward, methodical manner that inspires confidence and the leap of faith in oneself to believe they too can successfully complete this task. For novice mechanics and tinkerers alike, this is essential. And great tip on how to remove the rear wheel without having to adjust or even touch the wheel-alignment bolts. Thanks again for this very helpful video.

  25. Great show n' tell. I now feel confident I'll manage swap brake disk & tire on my beloved 02 night train Harley. Thanks Dude!

  26. Incredibly thorough video. I was going to pay someone to do this but after watching this I'm pretty confident I can do this.
    I have a 2005 Softail standard FXST. Pretty much same setup (except tire width) Anyone know how much I would typically pay for this job (just labor) in the Northeast? NY. Thanks!

  27. Have the 08 Fxstc with the 200 mm rear tire was afraid to pull and reinstall the back wheel because of the belt alignment might attempt it now out of curiosity is that final drive belt original ? Itโ€™s small width was the one reason I almost didnโ€™t buy my bike it really does look like a rubber band compared to buddyโ€™s 97fxdwg

  28. Hope you read this, but your contact patch tells us your running to much air pressure in your tire. 32 psi is requmended, but a bit less gives you a better contact patch. Plus you'll use more of the tread resulting in better traction. Those tires are expensive enough, so use them up right.

  29. Thank you for such great instructions. You explained everything so well. I have an 06 Softail Deuce FXSTD. I'm about to change out my front tire. I only rode my bike on week ends. It only has about 11K miles on it. I wanted some advance knowledge on how to remove the back tire for later. My back tire still looks great. My front tire is just at the little wear symbols. Thanks again!

  30. Truly an altruistic endeavor you have here Brother. Thank you for your Wisdom. I have a 2016 FXSTFBS and your guidance may help me change out my rear tire BUT I HOPE I don't have to change it every 12k as you have but have put over 6k on her in under a year so…. She's a 110ci but I have yet to break traction with her but ride her like I stole her (alone) more often than my girlfriend would prefer

  31. Iโ€™ve got a 2002 FatBoy. Iโ€™ve done many different maintenance items on the bike, but never thought I could tackle the tires. After watching your video, I feel I have the confidence in doing this. Your video was edited perfectly and instructions were clear and easy to understand. Thanks for the inspiration for me to do more perspiration on my own bike ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜Ž

  32. I watch your video every 2 years. It's how long the rear tire on my 03 fatboy lasts me. Always a great refresher. before i dive into it. But I also inspect the belt before putting the rock guards back. Cheers.

  33. Excellent video, and appreciate the step by step details from begin to the end of the job. This will be a big help both for replacing the rear tire and replacing brake pads. The best video I have found on youtube. Thanks man!

  34. Like how you did not remove the belt tension bolts it can be a pain to realign ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿค™ o yhea I subscribe

  35. Great video! I canโ€™t wait to get started on my โ€˜12 Fatboy Lo. One question that I didnโ€™t see in the video or comments – did you have to do anything with the tension of the belt after getting the wheel back on?

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