How to Install Tubeless Tires

How to Install Tubeless Tires

In this video we’ll walk through how to install
tubeless tires. Hello, Calvin Jones here, Park Tool company. Tubeless tires have become quite popular, especially
in mountain biking, cyclocross, and fat tire biking. They give good traction because they can be
run at low air pressure without the risk of pinching and flatting an inner tube. Additionally, the sealant inside can provide protection
from punctures, giving a more maintenance-free ride. If you’re new to tubeless, we highly recommend
checking out this repair help article on tubeless standards and component compatibility, and if you’re looking to convert your wheels from inner tube to tubeless, see one of these videos. Regardless of what type of wheel you’re working on,
the installation process is the same. Let’s get started. Typical tools and supplies may include
tire levers, air compressor and inflator head
(but in some cases a floor pump will work), tire sealant and measuring cup,
rags to remove old sealant, soapy water to lubricate tight beads, and for the alternate method, you would also need a valve core remover and a syringe. Deflate the tire fully, squeezing to remove
any pressure on the bead. Assume there is tire sealant inside & keep
the valve away from the downward position. Push both sides of the tire toward the center of the rim
to loosen the bead from against the rim sidewall. Use tire levers to remove the tire from the
rim. Watch for fluid at the bottom of the tire carcass, and
dispose of it as per manufacturer’s recommendations. Wipe clean the bead seat area of the rim. If you’re going to re-use the tire, clean
up the up the bead as well. Check that the valve is secure in the rim. Check for any arrows printed on the sidewalls
that indicate direction of wheel rotation. Align the tire with the rim accordingly. It can also be useful to place the recommended
tire pressure label on the tire next to the valve. Install one bead on the rim. Install the second bead beginning at the valve. Leave a portion of the bead uninstalled. At this point in the process,
there’s an alternate installation method, but it requires a removable valve core which
will have these small wrench flats at the tip, a syringe, and an air compressor. If you have have these things, skip to the
time shown above. Otherwise, let’s continue. Check the label for the recommended amount
of tire sealant, and pour in the fluid. Slowly rotate the wheel to keep the fluid at the bottom
while your unmounted bead comes to the top. Finish installing the bead. If it’s a tight bead, it can help to use some
soapy water to lubricate the tire bead. Use a tire lever when necessary. Inflate the tire to at least the maximum pressure
on the label. If the tire bead and rim are well designed
and compatible, this can work with a floor pump. Check that the bead is correctly seated. In some cases the bead will be too low. Deflate the tire, break the bead at the low
point, and lubricate with soapy water. Reinflate. Spin the wheel to move sealant around inside
the tire. Hold the wheel horizontally and oscillate
the wheel to help spread the fluid to the bead. Flip the wheel and repeat. Now we wait. The sealant needs to fully set and block any leaks. On UST systems, this may happen immediately. for other systems, it can take hours,
and in some cases, days. This is because the sealant has to
find and plug the leaks. Looking at this used tire, we can notice the
extra build up. This is where it was leaking, causing the
sealant to build up where it was seeping. Every few hours, maintain air pressure,
and give it a spin. Or, install the wheel and go for a ride. When the air is holding consistently, set
the tire to the rider’s desired pressure. This wheel is ready to use. Now let’s walk through the alternate installation
process for those with a removable valve core, a syringe and a compressor. First, check the label for the recommended
amount of tire sealant, and fill the syringe. Instead of leaving a gap at the second bead,
we’ll mount both tire beads before adding any sealant. Check that the valve is secure in the rim, and then remove the core using a valve core remover such as the Park Tool VC-1. Inflate the tire fully with an air compressor,
allowing the bead to fully seat. If the tire bead and rim are well designed
and compatible, such as with the UST system, this can work with a floor pump. Pull off the air head. For the most part, the bead will still stay
seated to the rim. Inject the fluid. Install the valve core and secure. Reinflate the tire, and finish the rest
of the process as shown before. Here are some final tips on use of tubeless
tires: Maintain your pressure to at least minimum levels. In the tubeless tire system, some bleeding of pressure
is considered normal and acceptable. This is why checking your air pressure is
often important. Even though the big advantage of tubeless
systems is riding at lower air pressures, there are instances where the system can fail. The worst load is the lateral impact. Here, the impact may cause what is called
a “burp”. The tire bead, just for an instant, opens,
allowing some air to escape. The pressure is now lower, and for every burp, you are more and more susceptible
to getting a complete flat tire. So check and maintain your pressure.
Keep track of what pressure has been working for you. And that seals the deal on tubeless tires. Again, if you want to convert your wheels
to tubeless, see this video, and for more information on standards,
compatibility and component selection, see this repair help
article at Park Thanks for watching, and be sure to subscribe
for the latest videos from Park Tool.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Thank you. The guys at the bike shop I wrenched at; would act like this process was too complicated to show me.

  2. I guess it must happen a lot in thorny areas but in my 20 years of mountain biking I've NEVER gotten a flat because of a puncture. it was always because my pressure was too low and pinch flatted.

  3. Pardon my ignorance.I was wondering,what happens if you get a puncture while out riding with a tubeless system.Is it a long walk home,or is there anyway of doing a repair.As I have always used a tube system,I always carry a couple of spare tubes and a puncture repair kit,just to be sure of avoiding that walk of shame.Thanks in advance,and I really enjoyed the video.

  4. First of all thanks very much for the video.
    Do you can take any Rim and any tire and will it work like that?

  5. i have a new bike with 29er tubless tire and it only shows 35 psi,so if i use the sealant to inflate the tire for the first time i have to put 35 psi or more?

  6. So I have ust standard everything and none of the manufacturers guides show sealant being used, so should I use sealant or not? Also if I do use sealant will I need to tape the rim? The guides without sealant don t use tape…

  7. You make that "Now inflate the tire" part look really easy. I'm using an electric pump and am not even close to getting any air to stay in this thing, and by now most of my sealant is on my driveway. I used to work at an auto garage and know all the tricks to getting a car tire bead seated, but they're not working here. What are the tricks for these damn things?

  8. Very clear and well detailed instruction, Big thanks! I'm just waiting for my Stan's tubeless sealant and I'll be doing this.

  9. This was such a perfect instructional video on this. I just got a bike with tubeless tired and was pretty nervous about changing them. You'd made it far simpler than I thought it would be. Thanks!!!
    Edit: Nevermind…it is in fact a far more challenging task than this video let's on. You neglect to mention that you cannot do this with a standard floor pump. You neglect to mention how much of an utter mess it makes putting the sealant in first. I pretty much wasted the first two ounces of sealant as it got everywhere, and leaked all over the floor. Now I have to start over, get more parts, namely co2 canisters since you don't mention it has to instantly I flat to set the beads.

  10. hi. I have rear wheel tubeless set up and after 4~5 month of use sealant comes through side of the tire. Before then no sealant leaking I could see. But even now I don't need to add air to the tire about 1 month ,though I ride every weekend for 5 ours on the mountain trails. This tire is used for about 11 month. Could you tell me if I should replace the tire? Thank you.

  11. Not worth the effort imo, a nice set of clinchers with lightweight tubes or even latex tubes, roll nearly as well and tubes are easy to patch if need be. I have seen countless bikes come into my shop with tubeless flats where the sealant failed to work. Even mounting and gluing tubulars is less of a hassle than tubeless, which is saying a lot.

  12. I never went tubeless. I use clinchers with Mr. Toughy Tire Liners and also add Stans sealant to my tubes and no flats in over a year of using the Stans sealant. You have to use great care in replacing the presta valves. Make sure it is screwed in properly and firmly otherwise you can accidentally remove the presta valve when removing the air nozzle. There is an ABS (Air Bleed System) button on Lezyne floor pumps to remove the back pressure before removing the nozzle to prevent this from happening. I learned this the hard way after adding air to my tires and trying to unscrew the nozzle the presta valve came out and I got a face full of Stans exploding into my face. It sounding like a gun shot going off.

  13. Soapy water is not compatible with many sealants (slime in particular). In the motorcycle world you would paint the tire bead with sealant for lubrication and to help with the initial seating and sealing process.

  14. Tackling this project for the first time this weekend, thanks for the videos. Super informative and well presented.

  15. I need to put my bike on my trainer (with trainer tire) two, three times a week…so tubeless is really too much work for me….

  16. Good information here. I never knew anything about sealant being used on a tubeless tire before, but then again I'm far from an expert on bikes. I have a Raleigh and a Specialized Crossroads bike and both are tubeless. I've owned my Raleigh for over 10 years and have never had a flat tire (still using the original tires). My Specialized Crossroads recently had two COMPLETELY flat tires. One of them pumped right back up with a floor pump, while I had some trouble with the other. There is rubber 'tape' inside (which I had to put back in) and I'm thinking I might need to use an air compressor to pump it up.

  17. Why would I ever use this complicated messy wheel system. And then have to check for pressure daily, dread the day I get a flat cause its irrepairable in 10 minutes on the road, and more expensive, doesnt seal with a floor pump, so you need a compressor which you cant carry around, and adds additional expenses. Just WHY.

  18. Check out ghetto split tube set ups. Ive been using it since it was invented about 20 years ago. I have NOT had ONE SINGLE FAILURE except sidewalls ripped on rocks. I regularly ride on trail with more rocks than dirt.
    Ghetto set ups create a tubular like construction which conform to the ground better.
    I work in a busy shop and have seen most of the systems, tires, rims available and 5 kinds of sealant. The ORIGINAL METHOD IS STILL THE BEST AND MOST RELIABLE. I ride to extremely remote places with no help or cell service sometimes bikepacking for many days. Frequently alone. I demand a very high level of reliability out of all my gear.

  19. i always destroy my hands trying to get the tire bead back on. now I know to use soapy water, I'm a 52-year-old woman who isn't very strong. this tip will help. thanks. my initial set up was done by my local shop.

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