How To Choose Wheel Offset For Your Chevy Silverado  – The Haul

How To Choose Wheel Offset For Your Chevy Silverado – The Haul


Hey, guys. Travis from americantrucks.com. And on this episode of “The Haul,” I’m gonna
explain what exactly wheel offset is, and I’m gonna help you guys decide which offset
is best if you’re shopping for new wheels. So if you’ve been looking at new wheels for
your truck, then you’ve probably seen offset listed on the product page. But what is it exactly? What’s positive and what’s negative offset,
and what exactly does it do? Is one better or worse? And what is backspacing, for that matter? Those are probably all the questions that
you’ve been asking, so I’m here today to finally answer them for you. I’m gonna actually explain what offset is. I’m also gonna explain what backspacing is,
what the differences and similarities are between the two. I’m actually gonna show you guys a few different
wheel and tire setups on our 2009 Silverado here. So first, let’s actually explain what offset
is in the simplest terms. Offset is the measurement of the distance
between your wheel’s mounting surface and the center line of the wheel drum itself. Now, to keep things consistent, offset’s always
measured on the inside of the mounting surface, which is the surface where the wheel contacts
the axle hub itself. Now, if a wheel’s mounting surface falls behind
that center line of the wheel so it’s closest to the inside lip, then it has a negative
offset. To paint an easy mental picture of this, you
can imagine deep dish wheels. Those kinds of wheels have the mounting surface
really sunk in. They typically have high negative offsets. Now, if the mounting surface of the wheel
in question falls in front of the center line and is, therefore, closer to the outer lip,
then the wheel in question has a positive offset. Now, a wheel with a mounting surface directly
in the middle, technically, does not have any offset whatsoever. Though, most people refer to this as neutral
or zero offset. Sounds pretty straightforward, right? Now, this brings me to the whole backspacing
thing. To understand offset completely, you need
to know what backspacing is and, more importantly, how it’s different. Backspacing is the measurement of the wheel’s
mounting surface to the inner edge of the lip of the wheel itself. In the simplest terms, backspacing describes
how much of the wheel sticks past the mounting surface and actually goes in towards your
suspension components. This is an important measurement because it’ll
help make sure that your new wheels do not contact things like the control arms, steering
knuckles, or the struts when you’re actually turning your wheels. Offset, however, is more important when you
want to figure out how far inside or outside of the fender you want your wheels to poke. Now, keep in mind, backspacing and offset
are different, but they are related. The more positive offset a wheel has, the
more backspacing it will have. Now, there’s one more common phrase to talk
about and that’s poke. You’ve probably heard this thrown around on
forums or reviews. This basically describes how much of your
wheel is sticking out of the fender well based on your offset. Now, if you’re working with a low or negative
offset, then you’ll have more poke. And if you have a positive offset, then you’ll
have less poke. So now, you know the basics. Positive offset means you’ve got wheels that
are tucked in with more backspacing and less poke. And negative offset means you’re rolling around
on wheels that are pushed out with less backspacing and more poke. But what does that all mean for you and your
truck? Should you go with positive or negative offset
for your desired stance? And what is best for overall wheel and tire
clearance? Well, we’re gonna do some experimenting. I’m gonna show you guys three different sets
of wheels on our Silverado today. Two are gonna demonstrate positive and negative
offset, and one’s gonna have a neutral or close to zero offset. I’m working with our 2009 Silverado, and that
truck has a 3 1/2-inch suspension lift. So let’s go ahead and get started. So here, we’re taking a look at a setup that’s
closest to factory in terms of offset. Now, we’ve got wheels with a plus 20-millimeter
offset for this test, whereas the factory wheels come with a plus 24-millimeter offset,
so not a huge difference. Now, these are the 17 by 9 Beast Machine Wheels
from Fuel Wheels, again with those 33 by 12 1/2 mud grapplers. Now, we decided to use 33’s instead of factory
tires for these comparisons because, well, a lot of you want to lift your truck. And a lot of you have questions about whether
you can make these larger tires fit with a lift like this without any rubbing or clearance
issues. Now, getting in a discussion like that could
really be its own topic. But in the simplest terms, you will probably
have some rubbing at full turn with a setup like this with a factory offset. Now, as you can see, it’s nothing too crazy. But you might have to do some basic trimming
inside the fender well area, particularly, to the factory mudguard. Or if you’re like me, you could just remove
it completely. Now, as far as offset goes, plus 20-millimeters
keeps the wheels and tires pretty much flush with the edge of the fenders up front, and
the same deal with the quarter panels out back. And at first glance, these might even look
a bit tucked in. So there’s little to no poke to speak of in
this case. Again, this is a great setup if you really
like that factory stance, and it’ll ensure that your tread is contained within the fender
wells entirely. So you don’t have to worry about rocks or
mud flying up, and you don’t have to worry about investing in any fender flares, for
that matter. So now that we’ve seen our gold standard,
kind of close to factory setup, let’s get a little bit of poke on here. I’m actually gonna throw on our next set of
wheels and tires with a neutral offset. So next up, we have these very cool 17 by
8 1/2 Anza Wheels from Fuel Wheels, and they have those same 33 by 12 1/2-inch mud grapplers
with a negative 6-millimeter offset. Now, this does put the mounting surface of
the wheel pretty close to the center line. And as you can see, there is a little bit
of poke, about an inch or two if you measure from the top of the wheel well, but it’s not
too much. I’m personally a fan of this offset because
it gives just a slightly mean stance without any excessive tread exposure. Now, you should keep in mind that, again,
the Silverado’s factory wheels actually have a positive offset of around 24 millimeters. So that explains why this close-to-zero offset
still affords some poke. Now, this amount of poke isn’t too crazy,
and it generally keeps the tread inside the fender wells for the most part. So personally, I would not worry too much
about rocks or mud flying off and damaging your truck with this amount of offset. Now, if you were curious about whether more
offset helps with clearance inside these wheel wells, well, unfortunately, that is not the
case. We do see more rubbing on the back end of
the tire against the inside of the well here, and the reason for this is actually pretty
simple. Going from a positive to a negative offset
changes the pivot point of the wheel itself. And this causes the wheel to swing in and
out more as you make turns. Kind of like making a lever a little bit longer,
you have a bigger swing. So now that we’ve seen what a close-to-zero
offset looks like, let’s go ahead and take these bad boys off, throw on our last set
of wheels and tires, and let’s take a look at what a decent negative offset does for
us. So finally, we’ve got a set of SOTA Offroad
Wheels, measuring 17 inches by 8 1/2 inches with, again, our 33-inch mud grapplers. Now, these wheels have a negative 32-millimeter
offset, which makes for a pretty big and aggressive stance, as you can clearly see. Now, this setup actually pushes the wheels
about 2.2 inches past the factory offset, and the result is that the shoulder lugs and
a pretty good chunk of the tread itself actually comes out of the fender wells completely. Now, this is obviously a lot of poke. And a lot of guys and gals like this look
with bigger fender flares and a more extreme lift than what even our truck has on it currently. Now, I personally would not run a wheel with
this amount of offset without flares of some sort, and that’s only because there is definitely
a good chance that you will be flinging up rocks and debris without them. Now, if you wanted to make this amount of
offset work with a 33-inch tire, you’re gonna need a crazy lift if you want to avoid rubbing. Because as you can see, this level of offset
really puts the wheel way past its pivot point, so it rubs pretty easily. Now, I couldn’t speculate on what kind of
lift you would need to make this work. But you’d have to really get the truck high
enough that a large portion of the tread actually falls out of the fender well entirely, or
you’d have to do a fair amount of cutting inside the fender well. So having taken a look at these three sets
of wheels and tires, that actually wraps up my overview and my comparison of what offset
actually is and what it does for your truck. Hopefully, you’re a little bit better equipped
to shop around for your next set of wheels and tires. Be sure to subscribe to American Trucks for
more cool truck content like this. And also, be sure to let me know in the comments
below what you’re actually running on your Silverado or your Sierra. I’m definitely curious to hear about it. Other than that, I’m Travis. Thanks for watching. For all things Chevy and GMC, keep it right
here at americantrucks.com.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Unless you are from Texas, you do not want any tread outside of the containment installed. When you go through any wet dirt or gravel road or trail it will throw dirt all over the side of your ride. Including the side windows. It's kinda fun at first but quickly becomes really annoying.

  2. Just bought 20×12 -44 RBP black with milled, will be installing Atturo 33×12.5r20 tires, and i cant wait !

  3. Major problem, you own a Chevy and tires will not help anything. You need a tow truck.

  4. ive watch a lot of offset video and tried to imagine what ive learned…but because of this video…now i understand what these offset is all about thanks …

  5. Man thanks this was easy to understand dude 👍 makes me want to shop till.i drop at one stop American trucks ….which one was Filthy Fit again …

  6. This is great information. However, you also need to explain how the different offsets effect the handling of the vehicle and the wear on suspension parts.

  7. Doesn’t the width of the wheel affect the amount of poke when referring to offset since the centerline is at a different point. For example would not have the same stance if you have a 17×9 vs a 17×8 even with neutral offset on both. Or am I mistaken

  8. I been thinking about getting me a set of those Fuel Anza wheels -6mm offset along with 33" tires. Would this work on a completely stock 2010 silverado?

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