How to Bleed your Brakes by Yourself

How to Bleed your Brakes by Yourself


(energetic guitar music) – Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto
parts for over 30 years. We’re dedicated to delivering
quality auto parts. Expert customer service. Fast and free shipping. All backed by a 100%
satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAUTO.com. Your trusted source
for quality auto parts. – We’re gonna show you how to bleed brakes by yourself using only a bottle and some fuel line to
make a self bleeding tool. Now this video is on
this specific vehicle, however, this application can be applied to just about any vehicle. The only thing that’s
really gonna be different is the size and location
of your bleeder screws. If you like this video
please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles
as well as more generic helps tips like this. And if you ever need parts for your car you can follow the link
down in the description over at 1AAUTO.com. So real quick we’re
gonna talk to you about the tool we made here for
bleeding brakes by yourself. This is very easy to make and inexpensive. All you do is we just
took an old soda bottle. You can use any kind of plastic bottle but just about this size is what you want. I drilled two holes in the cap. This is 3/16ths fuel line. That’s what you wanna use because it sits pretty tight on top of the bleeder screw. So you don’t need
anything to tension it on to make sure that no air or moisture gets in their while your bleeding. Drill a whole big enough to
fit the fuel line through and then I through a zip tie on there. So we can hang it from
the back of the vehicle and not worry about it falling or having somewhere to put it. And if something happens,
this hose will stay down there and submerged in the fluid. We don’t have to worry
about this moving around or pulling out on us. It’s about two feet of hose I have here. And then I just drilled
a small vent hole in it because you do build up a
little bit of pressure in there. So we’ll take the bottle and that’s brake fluid in the bottom. You wanna make sure you clean out whatever fluid was in there. We’ll pour some DOT 3 brake fluid in it. I’m gonna fill it about
a third of the way. We’ll put the hose in. Put the cap on nice and tight. And we’re ready to bleed our brakes. Our master cylinder
reservoir is already clean because I had to fill the fluid and bleed the master cylinder in this due to a brake line failure we had. Which is why we’re bleeding
the rest of our brakes now. If yours is dirty, wipe it off and make sure you don’t let any dirt or contaminants get into the fluid. Remove your cap and fill the
master cylinder all the way because we don’t want this to bleed down and get air into it or we’ll be starting
our whole process over. Once it’s full we’ll throw the cap back on so nothing gets in there. Make sure you keep your
fluid nice and tight too you don’t want any
moisture getting in there. So the proper procedure
for bleeding your brakes on the vast majority of
vehicles, including this one is to start at the furthest
wheel from the master cylinder. Which is going to be the passenger rear. We’ll then go to the drivers rear passenger front and end
on the drivers front. This is to make sure that any air or dirty fluid in the system gets flushed completely through the longest line. To make sure that there isn’t any trapped when we go closer and closer
to the master cylinder. This vehicle does have
an abs module underneath just about the middle of the truck but it’s a little more forward. So these lines still hold true. A rear mounted abs unit
will make this procedure the opposite of the way
we’re going to do it. If your vehicle has a
rear-mounted abs module, this process will be reversed of the way we’re going to do it. With your brakes starting
to bleed in the front and ending in the rear. This will depend on where you module is. So just take a look at it and see which lines are the longest. If it’s in the passenger rear corner then the furthest line is
going to be the drivers front. If it’s in the drivers rear then the passenger front
should be your farthest corner. But a simple check over the brake lines should show you which one
has the longest lines. So underneath the truck on
the inside of the frame rail this sits actually just about
dead under the drivers seat in the front. So our abs module is not
located in the engine bay like the majority of them are. It’s still more to the
front of the vehicle so the bleeding procedure
will be the same. So our 3/16ths fuel line is actually just a little bit smaller
than the bleeder fitting. So you gotta kinda work it on there a bit. But then it’s on there good and tight. You get a nice seal. Just crack your bleeder screw loose. You don’t wanna spin
this out much more than about a quarter of a turn. Because anything else could cause it to leak out of the side of the threads. Which obviously means fluid isn’t gonna get pulled
back in there, air is, and that’s going to defeat the purpose of what we’re trying to do here. Ours happen to be a 10mm open end wrench to open those bleeder screws. Yours might be a different size depending on the specific calipers
your vehicles equipped with. With the bleeder screw open we’ll now slowly fully
depress the brake pedal. Because when we release
normally air would in but with that line
submerged in clean fluid more brake fluid will come in moving the air out of our brake system (rhythmic rock music) Now you should only have
to do this a few times if you did something like a brake caliper or a line in the rear of the vehicle. But our vehicle lost all
the fluid in the system so we’re gonna be here a
while pushing all the air out. (rhythmic rock music) After a little while, there will be no more
air bubbles coming out. And it is okay to get out of your vehicle and look at the hose. If there are no air bubbles in the hose then there’s nothing coming through and you’ve got it all
out of that brake line. Now that our brake fluid is nice and clear and there are no bubbles left in our line we’ll close the bleeder
screw with our 10mm wrench. Make sure you get it nice
and tight so it seals up. And you wanna make sure when
you’re removing the hose you pinch the bottom nice and tight. And it is just rubber hose so you should be able to pinch it off. Life it up and let go. To drain all that fluid
back into the bottle instead of on to the ground. And move on to our next cylinder. Check the master cylinder
after bleeding each corner of the vehicle because
if fluid runs too low and air gets into the master cylinder you’ll need to bleed the cylinder and start the entire process over. Now we’re just going to go ahead and show you the process
on the front brakes. It’s exactly the same as the rear but these ones are a little older and we’re gonna have to go easy releasing the bleeder screws. Make sure we don’t strip them. It may even be wise to use
the box end of the wrench. We’ll open that up and I’m going to use the one person method on this brake. (rhythmic rock music) Now that we’ve all the
air out of our system and we have a good firm
brake pedal inside the truck we can go ahead and close our last line. Remove the hose. Top off our brake fluid
for the final time. Reinstall our wheels and
tires if you removed yours and you don’t have too we just did this to make
it easier to show you. And you’re good to go. Always dispose of automotive fluids properly and safely as
not to create pollution. Brake fluid and various
other hazardous waste from vehicles can generally be returned at your local parts store. As they take in these kind of wastes. Or if your local junkyard or dump has a hazardous waste day, store these parts safely and bring them at the appropriate time. – Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAUTO.com
for quality auto parts fast and free shipping and the best customer
service in the industry.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. It would have been nice if you could elaborate on the one person method that you touched on at the very end I mean you're just showing us that you can bleed your brakes yourself you're not showing us how you really are not showing us out I don't know what to say other than you didn't show me how to do anything other than fit a hose onto a bleeder

  2. This is a great video. A 20 ounce Gatorade bottle is just about perfect for this. The zip tie is the icing on the cake that makes this contraption work. It keeps the tubing below the fluid level so you don't suck air back up into the lines. I got that 3/16" tubing from Oreilly's, even the same color. About 3 feet is just about right so you can position it anywhere you need it. I also use a 6 point deep socket to crack the bleeder for the first time because those things tend to stick when they have been sitting for awhile. This saves so much time since you can just empty it out into another container and get going to the next wheel.

  3. I watched an old school mechanic do this. He was flushing the system but what he did was use an old turkey baster to pull old fluid out of the master cylinder and put it into the jug first. Then he topped of the MC and did what y'all did and waited for the line to run clear and no bubbles. Quick easy and solo.

  4. So the way you put brake fluid in the bottle to “Drain liquid “ is if you don’t have a balling hand? So I don’t need to do that ? I can just open the drain plug while someone pressing the brake down to drain all fluid? 5 full presses an all will be drained?

  5. It's better using a Motive brake bleeder tank.Faster and easier and you don't have to worry about running out of fluid.

  6. Dumb question maybe. But where do we get that fuel line to put into the plastic bottle? I haven’t bled my brakes longer than I should have and feel that I need to even though my brakes work very good even though I haven’t. Just wanna keep the maintenance on it.

  7. I plan on bleeding my brakes and also changing out my front pads and rotors this spring. Can you tell me the proper order to do this? Should I bleed the brakes first before replacing the pads and rotors or do the pads and rotors first and then bleed the brakes? Thanks!

  8. I did it like you're showed but Everytime I pump the brakes, after the the fluid stops flowing in the bottle air bubbles we're still coming out after the 3rd set of pumps which was 9 times

  9. Hi, this video is awesome and will save many people a ton of money. Out of curiosity, in what position does the ignition have to be at?

  10. All you need is a bottle and fuel line…where do you get fuel line…need a drill with the right bit…etc..

  11. hahaha,not very smart using a little bottle like that,.use an instant coffee jar with a hole cut in the lid to put the tube through,put a little fluid in it stick your hose so it hits the bottom of the jar.sit the jar on the ground..mash your brake pedal all the way down and then ,slowly slowly let it up about 4 or 6 times then check the master cylinder to make sure it has enough fluid in it that it doesnt suck air when you let off the brake pedal….each time you let the pedal up tighten the bleeder screw and check the master cylinder fluid….just remember to let the pedal up slowly so it can suck fresh fluid into the lines from the master cylinder. …and always keep the master cylinder topped off so it doesnt suck air.and ALWAYS use a boxed in wrench to break the bleeder screws loose….after you spray them with liquid wrench or something similer….i usually spray all of the bleeder screws a couple hours before i bleed them.

  12. Dont fully press in the breaks it can kill the master cylinder it goes in much further than normal after cracking the bleeder valve, to prevent this put a brick or a block of wood behind it so that it will press down as it would normally.

  13. If accidentally, brake fluid is dropped all over caliper, what to do ? & Is brake fluid bad for steel components, such as caliper and car steel parts ?

  14. This is the way I have been bleeding brakes for years and it works great !!!! But really, 1A auto, go back into the shop and get the proper line wrench !!!! I know not everyone has a line wrench but you should be using one !!!!!!

  15. Awesome idea, literally just done this on my ford tranist after rebuilding a rear caliper, works perfectly, cheers for a great tip. That's one plastic bottle i'll be keeping 🙂

  16. Please tell me how you can see the clear tubing line on the calipers on the other side of the car (for the bubbles or new fluid to come through) — whilst you are pushing the brake pedal from the driver's seat??

  17. 3:22 Would I be able to bleed brakes with ABS. Thought you need a scan tool for the ABS when bleeding brakes.

  18. Great video but I have a question. My accord front passenger brake caliper piston got stuck and it wouldn't retract. I kept smelling burn metal however, I replaced it the caliper and the mechanic bled the line. The brakes worked wonderfully but the ABS came light came on a few hours later. It lasted like 2 days and then it turn off however the brakes seem to be working awkward. For some reason the brakes slide and feel like there is no gripping. I can be driving 15 MPH and slightly brake and it doesn't grip and or slides and i feel a vibration on the pedal. Have you ever experienced this? Maybe even after you've bled the line?

  19. I did something like this in combination with installing a Speed Bleeder. And it worked flawlessly. First time ever to bleed brakes! And my brakes have drastically increased its sensitivity.. Like new… But I did not use a sprite bottle. I used a GLASS so that would sit upright.. Why use a light weight bottle and try to balance it?? Duh! Forget the hole in the cap, and just get a piece of tape around the hose to secure it to the glass. boom.. done.

  20. couple things: 1) make sure to suck the old fluid out of reservoir before pouring new one (turkey baster, or large syringe), 2) you don't need to take wheels off on most cars to access the bleeder. I just roll my car on top off a ramp and do 2 wheels at a time – much faster. Some car (like Prius) has special mode to bleed rear wheel (electronic control motor pump), some car take DOT 4 (like BMW). 3) before removing the hose, make the tube/Drain bottle go BELOW so when you squeeze tube out you get gravity to self draining to the bottle instead of making a mess. 4) use a clear bottle/hose so you can see dirty fluid/particles (sign of maybe bigger problem).
    Also I don't get why you put new fluid in the bottle – with the hose going up from the screw, any air bubble will move up and not get sucked back down when you release the pedal (which tends to be a lot less than push anyway) beside the tube will eventually fill but doesn't need to and doesn't start that way anyway…

  21. My ABS and Break light just came on; however there is voltage on the abs sensors.. the brakes work… checked the grounds… Dot3 is topped off. However it seems to be dirty… could this be an issue to cause the lights to go on?.. This seems like a real easy method to bleed/clean the break fluid… worth doing?

  22. I've found that how much you should turn the bleeder screw changes depending on the source. Some say barely, some say at least one full turn

  23. Hi Thanks, But I am having problem to understand the name of that little white thing which you put to keep the hose tight. What is that called ?? Also you mentioned that hose is 3/16 and what ??

  24. If you pump the brake pedal farther than its normal travel, you will many times cause the master cylinder to go bad. The way to prevent this is to put a block of wood under the pedal.

  25. Why would you have to bleed the master cylinder separately if the fluid got too low? Doesn't that air bleed out just like the air in the lines?

  26. For a person with no friends, I especially thank you for this video because I could not figure out anyone to help me bleed my brakes but if there’s a will there’s a way-and my brakes are gonna get done this weekend!!

  27. There are many videos on doing this but I have two questions. You do explain why you drill a hole in the cap to run the hose through, but I've never done that. I just use an open container and have never had an accident. I thought there maybe was another reason for for it. Am I missing something other than just avoiding spilling it? Also, I still have somebody do the break pedal for me while i open and close the bleeder. I don't see how, even cracked open just a 1/4 turn, that you aren't sucking air past the threads into the cylinder. Especially with that tiny vent hole in the cap. I would think the less vacuum pressure the better for avoiding air leakage at the bleeder threads.

  28. Even using this method I have learned to use a stick to keep the brake pedal depressed on the final push, just to make sure a bubble does not get sucked in through the threads of the bleeder nut. Also, with new master cylinder replacement, bleed the MC first!

  29. To open stuck bleeders, heat the bleeder screw with a propane torch and then slap a soaking wet rag on top of the bleeder to cool it. This causes all the rust in the threads to crack, now open using a 6 point socket. Works great and no special tools needed.

  30. Thank you, 1A Auto, your video helped me to do a one man brake bleeding.
     
    I would recommend, instead of pinching the tube after finishing, if you lower the bottle below the bleeder valve, all the excess fluid will drain back into the bottle.

  31. I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado, it was running fine then I started hearing a squeak, I checked and my brake pads were worn out on the rear left side, I replaced the pads on the right side first then went to the left side, the caliper piston would go in just a little but not enough for the new pads to fit in, I removed the caliper and pads and pressed the brake pedal for the piston to go out and it did, tried to put the piston back in and again it would only go in just a little, I replaced the brake caliper and bleed the line butt now I have a “Service brake system” message that will stay on as long as I drive the truck along with the red brake light .
    Have you ran across something like this?

  32. Thanks for this informative video. When I do this, I try to keep the bottle below the level of the bleeder screw to make the air bubbles more easily seen in the bend at the highest part of the hose but close to the bleeder screw where you're working. The zip tie on the hose below the bottle cap is a great idea.

  33. Why didn't mention not to open the bleeder screw a lot that fluid isn't coming out of the threads,but in ur video how to bleed brakes on Honda Civic the person opens the bleeder screw all the way without using this bottle method and let's fluid squirt outta the threading part?

  34. This and all of your videos are truly helpful. While I could "figure things out as I go," watching the videos first saves a lot of trial and error time. Thanks very much for these.

  35. this procedure works but:

    cut a longer hose to make an arch, a bucket, tool box, or chair for the bottle to sit at level/higher than the caliper

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *