BKXC Bike Check – Ibis Ripmo X01 | December 2019

BKXC Bike Check – Ibis Ripmo X01 | December 2019


Guess I should put the wheels
on before we get started. This is the Ibis Ripmo that I’ve
been riding for the past nine months. I’ve ridden it all over the world. I’ve had some good, good times on this
thing, and I want to go through the bike top to bottom, front to back and tell you
the things that I like, the things I don’t like, the things I might change
later, or the things I did change. All that good stuff. It’s a bike check. This bike has 29 inch wheels. It’s a size large, and
it is an enduro bike. You’ve got four types of bikes. For the sake of this explanation, there
are many types of bikes, but we’re going to say there’s XC bikes. There’s trail bikes, there’s enduro
bikes, and there’s downhill bikes. The further down you are
here, the easier it is to climb. The further up you are here,
the harder it is to climb. The further down you are here,
the harder it is to descend. The further up you are here,
the easier it is to descend. Then we have trail bikes a little bit
harder to climb, a little bit better on the downhill. Then we have enduro bikes. A little bit harder to climb, but a lot
better to go downhill, and this is the sweet spot for many,
many people right now. They love having a bike that you can
actually climb up the hill, but they can rip downhill because a
downhill bike is way too heavy. It’s tough to get to the top of a hill. The enduro bike is the magical
sweet spot for so many people right now. This bike has 160
millimeters of travel in the front. It has 145 millimeters
of travel in the rear. If you want any other stats on the Ripmo,
just go to bkripmo.com. Head angle reach, all that stuff that I don’t know
anything about, but it seems pretty good. I’m five foot 10 inches. I ride a large, it seems pretty good. And just for full disclosure, over the
past year, Ibis did three sponsored videos with me. Hopefully next year we’ll get to
do a few more cool sponsored videos. They have been an awesome partner and I
just always want to make sure I’m open and honest, transparent with you guys on
my relationships and the stuff I get. How about we start with this beautiful
blue frame, the glossy finish on it. It is one of the most stunning looking
bikes, especially from a distance. Once you get up close, you see all the
scratches that I put on the thing, which kind of sucks. That’s the battle between having a, you
know, having nice anything, having a nice car, or having a nice bike
with a nice paint job. When you actually put that first
scratch on it, you’re like, no. This was a journalist review bike. So a few people probably had
this bike before I got it. So there was already a couple
of scratches on it, but yeah. Most of the scratches are mine. When I first got it, I did a decent job
at putting this 3M tub tread on different vulnerable pieces of the bike. Looking back now, I wish I would have done
it on way more spots on the bike because there’s way more vulnerable pieces. But I really think this stuff did a
damn good job protecting the down tube. It was just the perfect width that lined
up with the Ibis, a paint job to actually look almost seamless. When it goes down the down tube, I put it
on the lower parts of the rear triangle and Oh, I’m sure that saved
quite a bit of damage. It just, it looks a little
funky when you put this on. It’s not, you know, it’s not so pretty. It’s a little weird. But I know it has protected the paint. If I was starting with a brand new bike
and I wanted to preserve this rip mow as much as I could, I would take both the
triangles apart and I would get down in here and put more 3M tub tread
to protect this inner part. There is some funkiness going on in here
because rocks get in, these two pieces are moving back and forth, and there’s
definitely some pretty good chipping and damage going on in there. And on the same note as frame protection. The biggest mess up that I did on this
bike was not getting the little ISCG-5 adapter thing sooner and getting a bash
guard and a chain gut on this bike ASAP. That is my number one recommendation. If you get a rip Mo, get the
chain guide thing on there ASAP. All right, let’s start with the cockpit
and, uh, I’ve got my Ibis carbon handlebars on here. They’re kind of weird. Because they have this metal insert on
the end of them that makes it so you don’t have to cut your bars if
you want to change the size. This little metal insert has been kind
of a pain because I wanted to try these things called rev grips, which have this
weird inner suspension with the grips. Long story short, they make
an adapter to make it work. It didn’t work. I ended up blowing $100 on grips. Boo. But I have been enjoying
these Ergon GA2 Fat grips. They have been pretty damn good. They have bar in plugs like
here that get knocked out. But, uh, every time I’ve lost them, I’ve
been able to find them and pick them up. So you just don’t crash. Don’t just don’t hit trees. For a long, long time. I ran the Wolf Tooth Fat Paw grips, which
I really liked, but man, Oh man, you had to cut those things off. Yes, I know people can do an air
compressor trick to blow them off and actually take them off, but I had the
hardest time putting those things on, taking them off. It just wasn’t worth it. I just moved to normal lock on
grips and they’ve been really good. I’ve got this Thompson elite stem. It actually looks kind of cool. I think a problem in Spain. With the popping and the creaking of
the bike was actually in the stem bolts. When I replaced the stem
bolts, cleaned everything out. That popping and creaking went away. Maybe, who knows? It’s gone for now. I’ve got a cane Creek 40 headset on here. Normally I would not
care what the headset is. I wouldn’t talk about the headset except
that I blew up the headset within the first couple months of having this bike,
and I think it was just from my not checking everything on
the bike all the time. We are all in control of
our fate with our bikes. We just have to pay
attention to what’s going on. Is this feel weird? Does this feel loose? Can I check these bolts? Can I check the wear on this? I need to get in a better mindset and
I have gotten in a better mindset. Especially in Spain, we’re doing all
these crazy runs day after day after day. You don’t have access to your bike. You have to take a second to stop
everything and be like, okay, what’s the deal? Is the wheel good? Is the headset good? How’s this look? How’s this feel? Be preventative with
your bike maintenance. If something feels weird,
something is probably wrong. I’ve got this little piece of mastic tape
on the bottom of my handlebars to protect them because pretty quickly I was noticing
this like click, click, clack, clack sound in the cockpit, and I realized that it was
the cables smashing up onto the bottom of the bar and actually causing a
little bit of damage on the carbon. So now I’ve got this nice cushiony
piece of mastic tape on here. I changed it pretty recently. It’ll last a few months. And I’ve got my BKXC stem cap here, which
makes it easy to see when someone steals one of my videos and puts it in their
stupid ad for a saddle on Facebook. I’ve got the Wolf tooth components
dropper post lever on here. I like the feel of it. It’s come loose a few times where I’ve had
to in the field, like actually get out my pliers and pull and tighten it up. That kind of sucks. But like I said before, probably my fault,
I probably need to check the boat, keep it tight, and uh, won’t
run into those problems. My breaks are the new-ish
Shimano XT brakes. With the four piston, you can tell because
you need to buy a different brake pad, even though the brake pad at the store
might say XT on it, it doesn’t, it doesn’t. Fit with the new XD until
that all catches up. Uh, the one life pro tip I will give
anyone, if you just got a new bike, pull out the brake pad, look at the model
number on the brake pad that came with it. Instead of trying to look it up through
the store and everything, cause you’ll buy the wrong one like I did and be in
Spain and not be able to put it in. These breaks have been super solid. I dig them when they’re
running at full strength. They did start to get a little crappy and
I just did a brake bleed and that solved everything. New pads recently, so they are
running really, really good. The Shimano brakes. Dialed. I’m also running SRAM Eagle on this,
which means I have a SRAM shifter and I’m actually able to made it up with a Shimano
brake lever because I’ve got this little problem solvers thing that allows you to
take those two different types of systems and mash them up together. It’s probably one of the most favorite
things I have on this bike because it makes the cockpit looks so clean. You don’t have two clamps. It just looks good. And when you buy the Wolf tooth lever, it
actually asks you like, which, uh, which kind of breaks are you running? So they kind of have their own little
system to make sure that you’ve only got one clamp and it looks good and
clean on the left side as well. How about this saddle? I just got this WTB Silverado saddle. Uh, I probably broke the original seat
on the first ride I did back in March and Auburn with single track sampler because
that seat is so creaky and recently it got even more creaky and more creaky and. You know, sometimes we just ignore stuff
on the bike and stuff instead of just spending the money. So finally I just spent the
money, got the new seat. I really liked the WTB Silverado, saddles,
this brand and model of saddle, not the same saddle has been on my bikes since
the Yeti SB66 back in 2013, I think. This is the KS LEV Integra dropper post. Kind of a piece of crap, but it’s
not horrible, but it develops slop. It’s got some slop in it right now. Everybody I know that runs KS LEV dropper
posts has some kind of weird problem, and especially the people that put a lot of
miles on them, bike guides and stuff, and. They’re like, no, no, no, no. You’ve got to swap that out. You’ve got to change that. But once again, why spend the money when
you could just go out and have a ride and have it ruined by a broken
drop repost eventually. Another awesome tidbit that I just love
on this bike is the Syncros fender. It bolts into the Fox 36 fork and it’s a
little piece of plastic that looks cool and actually works great as a fender. You know, and usually you get your fender,
you got to zip tie it to your fork. It’s gonna rub. It’s gonna cause all
kinds of weird problems. This is just a seamless, nice solution. And yes, I’ve got the Fox Factory Series
36 I don’t know anything about suspension. It all kind of feels the same to me. Eventually someday I hope to learn more. I did get this service about, uh, six
months into writing, which is good. I’m going to try to do preventative
maintenance, get it service. Even if it just feels fine. I got it serviced just
to keep it running nice. I run the total default setup that
Fox suggests on their website. If you take your little model number on
the back of the fork of the shock, you plug that into their website. You look at your weight, they will tell
you basically, Hey, this is probably pretty good. Or not. Uh, it used to work. This bike has been so good. It feels so light. It climbs so well and my
skills are getting better. So my descending is getting better. I took on the wet and wild Whistler
EWS 100 on this bike, and I felt good. I actually had that mental confidence. The bike was a big part of that. My own development and my skills
were a good part of that as well. I never feel under gunned. Okay. I take that back. Actually over the past nine months, I’ve
written all kinds of gnarly stuff, but in Spain, there was one trail that we did
where I was like, I need a downhill bike for this. This is just too gnarly, and luckily
that wasn’t a filming day for me. Andrew was filming that day and I didn’t
have to bother about getting in my head and doing multiple runs. I did one run, I was done, and I sat
in the van and enjoyed not dying. And I think the main reason this bike
feels so light is because I’ve got the Ibis carbon wheels, the asymmetrical
942 model beaten to hell on the rocks of Spain, but they are perfectly fine. They take a beating. That’s why I like carbon wheels. They can take a beating. Contrary to popular belief. Yes. When you have a catastrophic impact, when
you take it past its limit, it breaks and it gets destroyed. But the hits that these carbon wheels
have been able to take, I promise you my aluminum wheels, I’d be bending them
back or having a ham rum or it would get deformed enough where it won’t seat with
two bliss that I saw that happen all the time during the Spain trip. So me having the carbon
wheels, they were good to go. And on that same note,
I have tried CushCore. I’ve tried a couple other tire inserts. I don’t care. I don’t want it. I don’t want the extra weight. I don’t want the extra
headache, the extra time. All the good writers I know love CushCore. They say it’s a game changer. Good on them. I absolutely refuse to subject myself
to the torture of the CushCore. I’ve done it a couple times where it went
really nice and easy enough, you know, 30 minutes each wheel, and then I’ve done it
a couple times where there was no end in sight. So who knows why. One time it was good
and one time it was bad. I just, I, I don’t want any part of it. As for tires. I’ve been running Maxxis
minions for years now. They’re always kind of a
different little version. Like right now it’s the Minion DHF in the
front, the WT version, which is 2.5 in the rear. It’s the minion DHR to WT version 2.4 and
both of these have the EXO casing on them, and I don’t know which compound it is. It doesn’t say it on the side. So it’s probably the shitty one. Someone recently told me that you want as
much stuff written on the side of the tire as possible. That means you’re getting the good one. The DHF in the front. Right now, the tread is
like pretty damn good. It’s not worn out at all, but it has a ton
of weird little sidewall cuts and damage. Nothing enough to leak through sealant,
but once this tire bites the dust, I’m going to switch to the Assa
guy and see how that goes. Maybe I’ll throw it the ask. The guy on the front
and the rear, who knows? I like big burly tires. I’m not one for a fast rolling stuff. I just need all the help I can get with
cornering and traction and all the, all the skills that I lack. Moving back towards the back of the bike,
my bottle cage, this is a cheapo $20 bottle cage from Amazon. The original bottle cage that came with
this bike, it’s like 70 or $80, I think. And I broke it when I
crashed during the EWS 100. I actually need to change this bottle cage
because it’s rubbing up against the frame and doing a little bit of damage, which
I didn’t realize until uh, very recently. I’ve got my trusty Shimano
XT trail pedals on this bike. I love these pedals. I ride clipped in with SPD cleats. I can get out of these
pedals in an instant. I don’t even have to think about it. I don’t know my settings of like
how loose it is, but pretty loose. I keep pretty loose and these things take
a huge beating all the time and they stand up to it and they’ll probably
last a few more years. Someday I’ll try flat pedals someday. Just not right now. This bike came outfitted with a
SRAM Eagle XO1 drive train. I love the Eagle so much. So many people who don’t have it always
say, Oh, alright, I’ll never use that big gear. I use the big gear all the time. I use it and abuse it. The great thing about the Eagle drive
train system now is it’s fully mature. All the bike shops have it. They have spare parts for it. When I first got my Bronson, I broke a
pulley on my rear derailleur and nobody had it. Nobody knew what it was. But now these Eagle drive trains are
being sold on almost all new bike builds. I, I would love to know the numbers, but
I would guess a full bike complete build, seven out of 10 bikes has
an Eagle drive train on it. Now, I don’t know those numbers. I don’t work in a bike shop. Somebody who works in a bike
shop, let me know in the comments. So the best part about the Eagle drive
train system is that all the parts are interchangeable. You can get the super expensive XX one top
level stuff, and if you break something, you say, screw it. I’m just going to get the
cheapo NX level rear derailleur. Chain ring, crank cassette, so all
of these pieces are interchangeable. Basically, the cheaper you
get, the heavier they get. It’s very much time to swap
out my front chain ring. I have one on order. It hasn’t come in yet. I think that’s kind of the main reason
I’ve been dropping my chain a lot. The the, the teeth are very worn down. They’re not as big and
crisp as they once were. And I don’t have a chain
guide in a bash guard. There was a factory installed
piece of frame protection on here. It was a piece of a rubber, I guess you
would call it, that started the peel off, started to get floppy, had to pull the
whole thing off, and then the piece on the bottom here is very, very similar. It’s getting a little floppy. Maybe I just need to get in there
with some double sided tape or glue. Okay. I think that’s everything. I’m not 100% sure I’m looking at the bike. I’m trying to think what did I miss? What did I miss? But I think I got everything. I did forget something. I forgot to weigh the bike,
so I just threw it up there. 30 pounds, five ounces
in its current state. So now it’s your turn. Let me know in the comments. The pieces and bits on this bike that I
should replace, that I should change, that I should make better. Like I said before, I’ve got that link, bkripmo.com you can see a build out of what your build out would look
like if you ordered it. Right now, it’s very
similar to my build-out. I don’t think there’s much
that has changed recently. Our bikes just great. Thanks for watching you guys. I’ll see you on the trail.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Just go for a double down casing in maxxis. Will add some weight cauz thicker casing. But will save u sidewall slashes and sealant showers.

  2. Sid and Mackey run the Vittoria Airliners in their wheels and seem to like them. Much easier to install than a CushCore almost the same as a regular tire. Mastic tape works great for chainstay protection

  3. I’d say swap that dropper out with a PNW. I’m biased towards them, but largely because Aaron is obsessed with customer service.

  4. Brian great Bike check. My experience with CushCore was the same with installation, but after a few tries I found that letting them sit the cushcore and the tires under the sun for a few minutes makes the installation less troublesome. I'm enjoying it so far. Liked and Shared as always.

  5. Very nice Brian, pretty dialed. What do you have your eye on for the next new bike? Do you ever sometimes want to take the Bronson out for a rip?

  6. Brian get yourself the  Fox transfer seat post with the Kashima coating,best dropper post going IMHO……Happy Trails bro.

  7. I recommend getting frame wrap!!! Excellent frame protection ultimate piece of mind. I got the gloss version on my 2019 sc5010cc Sooo siic. Great vid Brian. Cheers mate

  8. See I hate my wtb Silverado it came on the bike and I'm looking at buying a loam wolf seat just so my ass isn't numb at the end of a 40km ride

  9. I have even seen the term Super Enduro, which means just the beefiest build of enduro bike. Radon bikes use this term. of course and there is the term down country xc bikes built to ride downhill😂

  10. KS Lev typically have bad bleeds from the factory. I instantly rebuild them and they're solid for at least a good two years after that.

  11. I recently switched from too short trail bike to enduro bike I built from frame, it climbs much better than my previous bike, I can just sit instead of doing the balance act, I can climb a steep trail, with sharp turn, no need to do tiring moves and rock my hips back and forth, lean forward back ward, try to not turn too much cus steering is too sensitive, with 61 deg head angle proper reach and proper stem length for more direct steering, yet stable, it's not an issue. I am not saying it will make it like sitting in sofa for everything, but huge difference in grip, with being in the centre o f the bike.
    I think this bike rides well, and I think it has to do alot with the geo, sizing, I know it's a heavier bike, but I think going up from 120mm travel was a good idea, I used it to the limit, it's good to have some more travel just to be safe, definitely good for my back,neck if do a harsh landing or just do wrong line and end up nose diving into a big root gap.

  12. 2:46 this shot makes it look like its fabric, like on a sofa, or jacket. but defenitly good idea to use this.
    my frame is Raw alloy so scratches is not a big deal.
    3:26 put MotoFoam in there.

  13. 5:30 ttrue that you sohuld chheck thihngs, butt some times if some components are flawed requiring you to do obscene amoutn of checking, if that's the case then it's not your fault.
    tthat was my experince iwth Race face stems, Atlas, Turbine, I had to check the bolts, loctite 243 did not do anything it just was gone, after a while, I had to check botls during, after and before ride, it got quite annoying, but I guess I tested it to thhe extreme, hahrd ridign in rapid temp changes. so far only stem I have tried that can handle this is Renthal Apex, as logn as Loctite 243 is used and it's cured, it wi lbe secure for months, until you have to take the fork off, this is why I went for Renthal Apex stem agian, got one in 33mm second hand it was in great condition looked like new, so I got a good deal, it was much less than retail, now with Chris King headset in a high equality frame I don't have to worry about having to adjust the pre oad on headset so often.

  14. 6:12 bad cable routing, I am not sure if you can fix it by cutting the housing, if not, ibis needs to fix this. This is not a issue I on my Nicolai/Geometron G1 one of best cable outing if not the best on the market.

  15. I think you should look into BikeYoke Divine, internally adjustable travel, cheaper than Revive, it hhas automatic bleed at full drop, so it won't get saggy. you can take it apart, adjust travel with spacers which come in a bag, you can service it yyourself, there is videos, manuals, and so on, they also have good rep and owner is active at the mtbr forums, and if anything is wrong he will replace it and look into tthe problem instead of wasting time and all what others might, I haven't ahd any issues yet, just used mien for few rides, but don't install the wire using the clamp thing to secure it at the post, then you will have to take the post out when temps change cus the little clam thing will fall off into the seat tube or on the ground when you take it out, I knew it could happen but tested it anyway, I now just hooked the cable in with the metal chuck thing that the cable already has if I need to tighten to adjust tention and can't With barrel adjuster, I can reset barrel adjuster, just pull the cable and tighten bolt at the lever, easy.

    the lever is slippery so use grip tape. https://flic.kr/p/2i2yqXr

  16. 12:13 Cush Core is easy for me, not an issue, and weight is not a concern the benefits outweigh it, the tyre will roll over stuff easier, it conforms take the impact dit has a dampened feel, of course this is with 5psi less that regular setup.
    it's not torture att all, you must be doning it wrong. just follow the instructions, it will be easy to install.
    12:34 there is no reason to do this, unless you bought Cush Core to use as resistance training equipment.😃
    12:47 clearly doing it wrong, you need to get the cus core towards you not away from you, in this shot you are having a battle with your self, you are almost taking it of and on at the same time, you are doing it in the hardest possible way, just follow the instructions instead.

  17. the only thing that can make Cus Core install hard is if the rim, tyre combo is a super tight horrible combo to use, which happens, but other then that, wrong technique, methods, which is your problem.

  18. Nice review 🙂 I’ve been riding and racing a ripmo in Scotland for around 14 months now. Spec on mine was similar to yours but had a fox X2 rear shock, fox transfer dropper post, ibis saddle, the ibis alloy rims, 11 speed XT drivetrain and 2 pot XT brakes. I love the bike and it’s definitely the best climbing full suspension bike I’ve ever ridden and it’s not a slouch on the downs either! I’ve made a couple of changes over the time I’ve had it…. Fitted a one up EDC tool to the fork steerer to save me carrying tools in a bag, a Deity Brendog signature bar as I felt the ibis carbon bar was really stiff and got the deity ones cheap and they seem to have a little more compliance. I’ve fitted Michelin wild enduro tyres which have been phenomenal. Loads of grip and a bit of a tougher casing than the maxxis that came with the bike. I liked the maxxis but found I was cutting through the sidewall near the bead on bigger hits and puncturing. In terms of pedals I’ve been running a mix of burgtec penthouse flats and crank bros mallet DH to go between clips and flats. Maintenance wise, the shock got air swap a few months after I got the bike but was sent if for warranty repair with no dramas. The bottom headset bearing started creaking so I replaced that. I’ve done a full drivetrain refresh as I’d bashed the rear mech and the rest of it was showing a decent amount of wear. I’ve had the same rubber piece at the back of the bike fall off and also lost a lot of paint from between the front and rear triangles the same as you if not a little worse (maybe Scottish winter conditions haven’t helped!) This weekend the bushes at the clevis to swingarm join have developed a fair bit of play which I’m not surprised at as the bike is well used. I have ordered replacements and will hopefully swap them in this week and it’ll all be good to go again. In terms of future tweaks I’m thinking about getting a one degree angle set to slacken the head angle a touch, maybe some ESI foam grips to further tame the hand pump, more frame protection bits as I’m getting some heel rub on the chainstays and I’ll give the forks and shock a service. It’s some bike though! 🤘🤘

  19. Kashima Coated Fox Transfer. Bulletproof, and it will look sweet on that Ripmo. Will probably have to use a different trigger though.

  20. Have you tried Nukeproof ARD? It's cheap, almost as good as Cush Core and a non issue to install. Only issue being that it stretches after a few months so you need to cut it down, otherwise it will rattle a bit.

  21. I just love how my bike is 5 times cheaper, probably 10% less capable (a bit less travel) and almost a kilo lighter 🤣
    Yeah, bikes are avesome.

  22. I installed an Invisiframe on my Yeti and it worked amazing. They're not the cheapest kit but they're cut to your frame specifically and have great coverage: https://www.fanatikbike.com/products/invisiframe-ibis-ripmo-frame-protection?variant=8156026929198

  23. I love how you don’t get obsessed over the details, you just ride the piss out of it week in and week out and talk about the real life stuff that matters.

  24. @6:54 Try putting the barrel end of the cable up at the wolf tooth lever. Pull the barrel snug against the ledge on the underside and tighten the bolt at the lever. This fixed my issue with slack developing in the cable over time. The barrel at the lever / against the ledge on the underside prevents the cable from pulling through the bolt as it uses the barrel for leverage instead of just the bolt torque on the cable.

  25. I recently made the switch from DHF to Assegai on my Ibis HD5… you won't regret it… it's so good! Excited to ride with you again next year Brian!

  26. I had flat pedals for 10 years before going to shimano xt spd clipless. Am sure it did teach me better pedaling technic but I would not go back to them

  27. There is a product called skid plate foam that is commonly used to prevent muck (and mud) from getting between the skid plate and the engine on a motocross bike. I have seen some MTB guys stuff pieces of in into suspension linkage crevices to prevent things Mother Nature from interfering with its operations

    https://www.amazon.com/skid-plate-foam/s?k=skid+plate+foam

  28. “If it feels weird”, you’ve neglected your maintenance. For a guy that gives off the aura of being completely mechanically incompetent and a hands on bafoon, i must give you credit for taking personal responsibility for the trail worthiness of their bike, I must say, I’m impressed, keep it up 👍

  29. I used some carbon paste on the clamping surface of my wolftooth lever, because I had the same problem. Works way better now👌🏻

  30. I recommended the ergon fat grips when you were building the bike. Now I’m going to recommend a oneup dropper and pnw remote.

  31. I had the same issue with my KS LEV dropper post. Sent it in for warranty work, (it was within the 2 years of purchase) and unknowingly sent in the remote/cable. A week or so went by and received my dropper post and a check list but no remote or cable. Tried to call/email and finally got a written response saying the perform a check list of all inventoried items for warranty work and that the cable/remote was not in there. Long story short I had to go out and purchase another remote and cable due to the fact that KS would not acknowledge or even attempt to help me on this issue. I tried writing a review on their Instagram saying that I did enjoy there product but their customer service was lackluster. Cool bike check video Brian!

  32. Great to see the use and patina on your bike and hear how things hold up after extended hard use. That is much more useful info than if you were riding sponsored equipment that was always new—never change Brian!

  33. Solid down to earth review of a bike with the bits that it came with and no techy bullshit , love the chanel, keep up the great work.

  34. Just got a Ripmo. It's nice to see some of the areas that need armor applied. Some of the real nasty in the bb area has been solved with some factory applied splash guards. Full XT drivetrain. Fifth ride tomorrow!

  35. I use 2.6 Maxxis Forekasters and ride in Marquette (rocky stuff, your mom, pine knob, bareback, mclovin…) without ever getting a flat. Yes I understand that the bigger lugs will give you better grip but you could drop two pounds of rotating mass just by switching to them. I've had DHFs on a 26er back in 08 and found myself reaching a very slow terminal velocity on steep hills (while not pedaling) with those things. Not a DHF fan.

  36. I also love the GA2 fat grips! Though I still prefer the lighter ESI (extra)chunky silicone grips for XC. I put 3 long zip ties in the grips and slide the zip ties over the handlebars. When the grips are in place I just pull out the cable ties one by one. The NX cassette is not interchangeable with GX/X01/XX1. Invest in couple of chains and regularly rotate them. I have a cheap NX chain for casual riding in bad weather, XX1 chain for races, and two X01 chains for group rides or training that I rotate every 1000km. This prolongs the chainring and cassette life.

  37. Get some 1/4” 3M automotive double sided tape for you rubber chain guards. My FEX8 has something similar that started coming up right after I got it. I cleaned it good put that on it and haven’t had a single issue in over a year. That tape is the stuff that manufacturers use to put on wind deflectors around windows and big shields on vehicles. It’s good stuff.

  38. Hubs, Through axle, Bottom bracket but I think that's about all the major stuff I can think of that was missed. Good bike video Brian. Hope you had a great holiday and see ya out on the mountain.

  39. 1. I highly recommend you DO NOT put the Assegai tire on the rear. It's an anchor. 2 If you haven't smashed your frame or chain ring, then why get a heavy bash guard? I just run the simple One Up chain guide that's a breeze to install, and I never drop my chain. I figure the worst thing that can happen is I smash my chain ring, and that's not that much to replace. 3. I'm with you 100% on CushCore. Great product…just a pita to deal with. A sponsored racer dependent on podium finishes…I get it. Otherwise…the hassle-suck factor is too high. 4. I have the Bike Yoke 185mm dropper, and it has worked flawlessly since I got the bike in April. Not a single issue, and I have had dropper issue after issue with Reverbs and KS Levs, and they've NEVER lasted that long without a full rebuild, or just replacing them. 5. I dropped the rear wheel, and added black mastic tape to that entire area on the frame in front of the tire. I also added clear tape to both sides of the frame in that spot where rocks collect, and that worked well. You might try that to protect it from gouging the carbon and damaging it. 6. I just added the Works Components 1* Angleset to the bike, and I'm interested to see if that will make it even more capable descending, and on rock tech. Or…if it will make it corner sluggish, and I'll hate it. Hoping to find out over the next few days! .

  40. Thank you for explaining all the different bikes and the accoutrements on your bike.
    I am an old woman who geeks out on watching MTB videos hoping to gain some knowledge for my own riding skills and you never fail to share information all the while not talking down to us novices.
    FYI- come ride a snow bike here in Laramie Wy.

  41. I do not know the numbers about Eagle, but I guess you are pretty acurate. Although Shimano 12 speed is a real thing now.

  42. Still the best "enduro" bike I have been on is the Ripmo. It has the best climbing platform from many of the bikes I have posted on my channel. I just wish it had a slacker HTA but thats what I'm sure V.2 will have when it comes forward. Superb video Brian!

  43. Didn't have the chance to look over the full comments, but one thing to use for the rear triangle instead of the plastic..Use Scotch 3M 2228 Tape. Works great for those areas, started using it after Doody's suggestion.
    I've been using it for the bash area at the BB and chainstay, huge rock hits with no damage to frame.

    https://www.amazon.ca/3M-Scotch-Moisture-Sealing-Electrical/dp/B001B1AP3O/ref=pd_yo_rr_rp_1/143-4585973-7383814?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001B1AP3O&pd_rd_r=68832028-9d4c-4fdd-8d0e-38d547636578&pd_rd_w=VKkZ8&pd_rd_wg=W3taq&pf_rd_p=90ab3236-951a-4783-8534-b4f5d411b54a&pf_rd_r=AD320ADQPMMF8GQ0YYA6&psc=1&refRID=AD320ADQPMMF8GQ0YYA6

  44. You should look into the stfu Chris kovarik chain guide thing looks like a cool product also new bars! The rev grips are worth it! Those same ergon grips came on my new bike I liked them then I put on my rev grips and remembered why I paid so much for them!

  45. At our bike shop we use a syringe with rubbing alcohol to poke through the grips and inject it under them and it works amazing. Also spraying rubbing alcohol on the bar and inside the grips makes it super easy to put them on.

  46. If you're looking for frame protection beside bath tub tape, try all-star performance 14275 tape on Amazon. It's 2"x30' and completely clear. I put some on my bike in 2016 when I bought it and have yet to replace it.

  47. Question: how well does the Ripmo climb? Everyone seems to say it climbs great. I'm currently on a 130/130 trail bike that climbs pretty well but I'm looking for a something with a little bit more cush. How does this bike do in tighter single track?

  48. I rode that one trail you felt you needed a DH bike on. Probably about 3 weeks after you were there. Vic told us all about it. Honestly, i kinda felt the same on the first run, but i was filming so i had to back for 2 more runs, and in the end it was a blast. Maybe next year we’ll get to go for a ride together someplace 👍

  49. I am actually quite interested in the new Aluminum Ripmo AF. Also surprised you have Fox suspension, I am guessing the DVO suspension that the Ripmo is known for is only on the mid-level builds and the new Aluminum version. My closest Ibis dealer said it will be a minimum of 6 months before they see a Ripmo AF demo bike, it is that popular, they said a minimum of 3 months out on Ripmo AF special orders.

  50. I have the same shock and i love to use the compression lever when i climb and descend, have you ever used it, anyways nice vid.

  51. I wish U would professional it up… Either get input on how/wut to use to fix and prevent things from breaking… Or do it B4 release = showb4 n after. IE glue and what glue used to reconnect guard/protective strip. Makes for a more informative vid and better experience. 🚴

  52. Love watching your videos, and your riding style is very similar to what like to ride in Colorado. I'm looking at getting a new bike and wondering if you ever feel the travel on your Ripmo has ever felt like its too much? I don't want to overdue it and sacrifice climbing. I'm currently looking at Pivot, Yeti, Santacruz in that travel range.
    Thanks Keep up the good work!

  53. Hey Brian, Thanks for the bike check. I listened for a comparison of the Orbea Rallon you used to ride, but it never came. Can you pls comment on it? Love to hear your thoughts as someone who has ridden both bikes extensively. Others feel free to chime in too. I ride mostly in the chunky and super technical Southwest (Moab, Hurricane, Sedona, Tucson) areas. How do the bikes do in those conditions?

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