5 Reasons You Should Switch To Tubeless MTB Tyres | Mountain Bike Maintenance

5 Reasons You Should Switch To Tubeless MTB Tyres | Mountain Bike Maintenance


– If you watch a lot of GMBN videos, how many times have we probably told you that tubeless is better? It’s lighter and you’re not
going to get so many punctures. Well in this video, we’re going go out and we’re going to prove that. We’re going to see, is it lighter and are you going to get less
puncture, with some tests. So let’s get straight into it. So, if you don’t know what tubeless is, it’s basically that you
ditch the inner tube. You need some tape, you’re
going to need your valve, some sealant, bundle that
together with your wheel and your tyre, and hey presto! You’re tubeless and ready to ride. If you want to know how to
do it, then we’ve got a full, in-depth video showing you how to do that. But let’s get to the first example. First up, tubeless is lighter. Let’s just prove that. So I’m going to add on to the scales that I’ve got set up right here my super-light carbon FSA rim. Then we’re going to add on the tyre. Okay, so that is weighing in at 1.615. And then lastly, we’re going
to add that inner tube on. So for this setup, it’s
coming in at 1.855. Let’s now take this tube back off. We’re going to put the
valve into the rim itself. If I can find the valve hole. I’ll just pop it into the tyre. So now, let us add 100
mil of tubeless sealant. So that’s going to take me
down to that line right here. Okay, so that was the final
bit of my sealant added in. Got 100 mil in there,
which is the correct amount as per the bottle. And the weight, we’re at 1.74 kilogrammes. So that’s a whole 100 grammes lighter. Mythbust One done, because
tubeless is lighter. Okay, so we’ve proved that tubeless setup is 100 grammes of saving per wheel. But what does that
actually mean on the bike? Because you’re going to
save some rotational mass. Now rotational mass is that mass that is actually always moving so the things like your wheels is where it’s going to
have the biggest effect. Stationary mess, well that is saying like the frame itself or even
the shock on the bike. But how does that effect
you when you’re riding? Well, it can be said that rotational mass can have up to three times the effect of that stationary mass. So we’ve just saved 100 grammes. So times that by three. We’ve saved 300 grammes and
then we’ve got two wheels, so you’ve saved 600
grammes for quite an easy and simplistic upgrade that’s not going to cost you too much. Now this is all done with the
moment of inertia formula. If we’ve got any scientists out there, then we’d love for you to
prove that we are right, or even if we are wrong. You can let us know in the
comments section down below and I will be marking your work. So we’ve learned tubeless is lighter, you’ve got less rotation and weight, but what we really want to know is, are you going to get less punctures? So let’s test it out. Because I’ve got the wheel in the jig. I’m going to take my tool right here, this is representing a thorn. We’re going to stab into the tyre put a hole in it and find out if it will seal. So, are you ready for this? Three, two, one, and I’m
taking my tool to the tyre. (hissing sound) Okay, you can hear that air coming out. Let’s give it a spin and
get it to seal, hopefully. Okay, we’ve got the sealant coming out. No air is escaping. So that goes to prove that the sealant, the tubeless setup has done its job. Now if you had a tube inside that wheel, if you went and stabbed that in it would be game over because you would not be
able to seal the tube. The air would be escaping and your ride would be over. So, that’s another tick for tubeless. Okay so moving on, we get
an object into the tyre. Let’s talk about more of an impact one and such called a snakebite. Now watch what happens
when you get a snakebite, is that you’ve got your impact, I’m going to use my hand as an example, and it’s going straight in. It’s going through the tyre, hitting the tube onto the rim. Now that impact, because it’s
combining against two things, and the tube is in the middle of it, the tube is actually going to get pinched, and that’s what causes the snakebite. Those two tiny little holes,
almost like snake fangs, have gone into that tube itself and that’s what creates a puncture. Now with tubeless, because you
haven’t got a tube in there, you’re not going to get those snakebites. So that is another reason why
you want to ride tubeless, and of course, less punctures
means more riding time. So because you’ve got
better puncture protection with the tubeless system, it means in turn you can actually get more grip. And what I mean by this is
that you can actually run less pressure because,
if you think about it, you’re going to have more
pressure running a tube system. Because you don’t want
to bottom out really hard going through and getting a snakebite or you don’t want to get
something going into the tyre. So you’ve got to run a
little bit higher pressure but because you eliminate
those two problems with the tubeless system, you can take a little bit of pressure out. Now I’m not talking
about a huge amount here. I’m talking about two, three, four PSI. It all comes down to a
little bit of experimentation because you don’t want that tyre to roll or even burp beneath you. So take this one with a pinch of salt. Do a little bit of experimentation. Take a few PSI out. You’re going to have more grip, which means you’re going to be able to rail those turns harder and you’re going to be able
to do some later breaking. Which all in turn means that you’re going to go
faster and have more fun. Okay, so for our fifth and final test, I have got two wheels right here. The rims are identical,
the tyres are identical, and the pressures inside are identical. The only thing that is
different is this one right here has got a tube and this
one, well, it is tubeless. Now what we’re going to do
is a little squeeze test to show you some of the difference of when they actually deform under pressure. So if I squeeze this one right here which has got the tube in
it, you can actually feel that it’s quite hard to deform the tyre. But, if I take my tubeless one, it’s actually a little bit
easier to deform that tyre. Just because you don’t
have a tube inside of it. It means that it’s going
to take less resistance to actually deform that tyre. Meaning that you’ve got a little bit more compliancy with the bumps. It’s going to absorb some
of those lower impacts. Perhaps if you’re going
over roots and rocks at a lower pace, it’s just going to give
you a smoother ride. This is not that noticeable to
the vast majority of riders. But if you’re racing
at the very top level, well every little advantage really helps. Okay there you go, some facts about why you might want to run tubeless. Hopefully, I’ve mythbusted
a whole pile of stuff and told you why you might
want to run tubeless. It’s so easy and it’s such a good upgrade that you’ll probably never, ever want to run that tube again. If you want to watch more videos from GMBN then make sure that you subscribe so you’ll never miss another. Then click just there
for how to go tubeless and click down there for how
to set up your tyre pressure. If you found this video useful, then share it with a friend
and give us a thumb-up like. Cheers!

Only registered users can comment.

  1. I'd rather have my side walls stiff and less flexible so my ass end doesn't feel like it's gonna slide out in every corner or even roll the tire off the rim in a hard corner. What happens when you have a hole that won't seal? I can just replace a tube trail side are you gonna carry another tread tire sealant and a burst can to fill your tire again? I doubt it. The only advantage is weight saving and once you add a tire insert the weight is basically the same as running tunes so I don't see any benefit and more hassle.

  2. My bike came set up tubeless. I've never ridden an mtb in any other way. My road bike has tubes, but I have tubeless-ready wheels, so I might ditch them there too. Never ridden an MTB with tubes.

  3. Hello, I'm looking to buy an entry level Tubeless ready / compatible mountain bike. Does anyone have any recommendations of brands / retailers / models for me to check-out please?

  4. Sooo my trek came with tubeless tyres, and took it out today got a thorn stuck and it instantly flattened 👍

  5. It's expensive but it's good for the long run for people who ride a lot. But if you just ride once in a while around your city, then it's cheaper to go tubed. Their only $3 to $12 an air tube. But it's hundreds of dollars for airless. That would takes years for you to pay off but if you ride a lot & long distances on rough ground, it'd only take months to pay off.

  6. weight difference is 36 USA cents. (same weight as 36 pennies) that's how "BIG" deal of difference in weight, yeah big deal(sarcastic).

  7. I love it when he said "less punctures" but wink with left eye(does it means that he is pulling our leg?)

  8. I switched over because I suck at installing tubes. I've spent so much on tubes only to pinch and puncture them when installing them.

  9. "Rotational mass counts for more than stationary mass" is only partly true. If you're going at a constant speed, it will make no difference whether the mass is spinning or not. Any extra mass in the wheels will add to the moment of inertia, which resists angular acceleration, which only occurs if you try to speed up or slow your bike down. Your bike will be slower to accelerate and brake therefore, but climbing and riding at a consistent speed will be no more difficult. Interestingly, the increased moment of inertia of your wheels may actually help you in a relatively short climb, since you'll maintain more of your linear momentum.

  10. It's fewer punctures, not less. If its a plural it's fewer and if its a quantity it's less, e.g. "fewer punctures means less time wasted". You don't say less punctures the same way you don't say fewer money.

  11. Hi guys. I’ve been riding cross country and enduro for nearly 3 years now and haven’t had a single puncture (with tubes). I like the idea of going tubeless, but I don’t want to make the change and all of a sudden I’m having issues. Is it still worth the risk??

  12. One simple question: Why does no bicycle manufacturer sell bicycles wihout tubes? Are they stupid or are you stupid?

  13. No rim tape? If they were that good there wouldn't be all these tutorials… Just stick a tube in and get on with it!

  14. What about "one good reason to not go tubeless?"…everyone talks about burping. I'm just making the switch now, and that does make me nervous. I'd rather have a little annoying flat than fly OTB because of a burp at the wrong moment.

  15. This is more of a sealent vs non sealent. Cause as stated elsewhere you can put sealent in the tube. While pinch flats may still occur they can be sealed by the sealent as well. The weight difference is a weak point to stand on. 200g is equevelant a PRD or leaving a tool or bag off your bike. Are you a roadie? weight dropping is for those guys. Just as easy to buy some slime and put them in the tube.

  16. You can tell the people that have never felt the benefits of tubeless they argue tooth and nail then they ride tubeless the first-time and are 😱 you should go tubeless fucking duh

  17. #5 after first time trying tubles i was surprised that its software and small bumps or rocks roots a lot more forgiven i didn't think that it was tubless thing but now i know

  18. So what do you do if you get a slash down the side of the tire through a sharp rock All of your tire sealant is lost how are you going to get home when you’re on your own

  19. I go tubeless but all the time I carry a tube in the backpack in case a sharp rock really cuts thru the tire and then the liquid does not seal big cuts only punctures. So the tube comes handy in that situation by put it inside and the fun continues

  20. I like to change my tire depending on where I am riding, if trail is muddy, going long distance on road and other factors. It it easy to change tires when tubeless? I change about 4-6 times a year. Thx.

  21. How tubeless tires perform on touring during summer days where asphalt temperature is near 70-90 or sometimes 100+ degrees celzius while atmosphere temperature is 40+ degrees celzius? How durable is it? How those tires behave on downhills? Do you ride longer in comparison to heavier tires who can better use gravitation to speed up? Looking forward to your answer.

  22. The only reason I go tubeless is so I can shove half a kilo in each tyre and make my deliveries, I pack it in really hard and just ride like the wind.🤣😂🤣

  23. At 2:10 says that we “upgraded” by saving rotation “mass” and also says rotational “weight”. So by upgrade is he considering less rotational inertia is an advantage in starting, stopping, however also less roll inertia which I would think is beneficial. However I mainly disagree with his word use of weight.

  24. The fact that it's lighter doesn't really mean much tbh. The gyroscopic effect that's holding the bike up straight is dependent on the moment of inertia of the wheel. If the moment of inertia is lower, the bike will be less stable. I understand that the bike will be faster, I just think it's better for other components to be lighter and the wheels to stay the same. I suppose it depends on your riding style and preference, but as far as I'm concerned I'm contempt with my bike being more stable rather than being 0.5km/h faster

  25. There really is hardly any difference because you can put sealant in an inner tube so it’s a waste of money and time for me.

  26. The weight comparision is a joke, they compare awful 220 gr tube with 100 ml sealant, wtf, just take light 125 (or less) tubes!

  27. The moment of inertia for something like a bike wheel can probably be approximated by I = mr^2, so I don't see where that 3 times multiplier is coming from.

  28. What's the difference between going tubless and using slime with a tube? Doesn't that do the same thing (seal)? Also, if the tubless sealant doesn't work for whatever reason, aren't you screwed? At least with a tube, you can replace it.

  29. Well… it is NOT lighter. Coz the tires that are Tubeless ready have to be more precise and thicker so… no its not

  30. I guess that on that width of rim the rim tape and sealing tape will weigh about the same. Mmm, and I guess for fat tyres too, I'll have to try this on my fatty.

  31. I rode tubes for decades with no punctures, except for staples and nails on city rides.
    My new bike came tubeless. They leak. Fast or slowly, they leak.
    Press people hard enough and you'll eventually get the truth – they go from saying, "It never leaks" to "well, I only have to pump it up every week or 2".
    Got tired of this crap, poured the sealant out and stuck tubes back in. Two years later, no flats, and I pump them up once at the beginning of the season.
    BTW, my beater bike has schrader valves and they hold air perfectly.
    Don't be pressured by trends. If you'd rather be riding than dealing with tubeless, then don't be afraid to make the switch.

  32. what type of tire it should be for tubeless tyre? is it the soft one or hard one. my tire is 26×1.9/2.125 and its soft.

  33. No, tubeless is not lighter. Yes it is if your using a tube in a tubeless tire, but most dont do that………
    also just put sealant in your tubes. same puncture protection without the hassle of tubeless.

  34. I am an avowed "retrogrouch," but I bought a bike (that I didn't know was) already set up tubeless, and I absolutely love it.

    American SouthWest (where I live) has goathead thorns. Tubeless is best, certainly better than changing tubes constantly.

  35. I recently converted my bike to tubeless and obviously it’s good I will get less flats, but the thing that’s blown my mind is the difference in the way the bike feels. It’s so much easier to ride uphill for whatever reason, I’m pissing up hills I that have always gassed me. Also, my bunny hops are better and it feels way smoother and more planted on downhill trails. I will never go back to tubes that is for sure!

  36. I auto thumbed down in after 10 seconds. I'm tired of limeys talking about their 'boyks' and measuring shit using the archaic metric system. GO BACK TO ENGLAND!

  37. So I have added more sealant about 5 times now due to drying out and slow leaks. This is now much heavier than a tube. Big pain in the arse job to remove tyre and remove all old sealant.

  38. You forgot to mention that tubeless tires when twisted in a hard turn all the air escapes leaving you with a flat tire . It happened to me on my motorcycle.

  39. I think what's not being explained very well in the tube/tubeless debate is the nature of thorn punctures. What frequently happens is that the thorn breaks off at the surface of the tire, but the tip remains embedded, through the tire and into the tube, so that even if you have sealant in the tube, every time weight rolls over the puncture the thorn gets jiggled around and recreates the hole. if you have no tube, even if the thorn tip remains in the tire, its really just acting as a partial plug in the hole, much easier for the low-viscosity sealant to deal with. This situation isn't nearly as likely to happen in an urban environment, but if you're in a really thorny place like the American southwest, with mesquite thorns and goatheads (Jesus, the goatheads, some times you get one, and its like there's a crew of fairies somewhere, hand carving the little fuckers out of solid oak!) it's your most common issue. Growing up in New Mexico, I spent most of my childhood looking at my unrideable bike while I saved my allowance for the next thorn proofing attempt.

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