410 Sprint Car Build Ep 08 Front Axle Installation

410 Sprint Car Build Ep 08 Front Axle Installation


So we’re gonna do the front axle today
we’re gonna put it in now that we put it together. Got a bunch of radius rods
and a bunch of heims we’ll do the drag link and the pitman arm
today. What’s the first step? So let’s get these radius rods assembled and ready to
go in. We’re using aluminum heims in the aluminum tubes and then the steel the
drag link and the left-front radius rod are steel we’re using steel heims in
those. It’s always a good idea to chase the threads on these things. Do you have that tool?
Which tool is that oh yeah we do. Snazzy with the zippy gun. We do. Oh they got one? Yes we have one. Those are nice. Your zippy gun sir. Zippy gun. It works. Boom oh yeah it’s still nice and warm holy cow. Yeah
it was I was moving some metal in that one. All good.
Threads in like butter now Tom. There you go. There’s no knurl on the steel tubes
to tell you which one is left hand? There’s little groove bung right here
oh okay that uh denotes left hand thread. Here I’m gonna try this I never used one
of these before. It’s super fun and super awesome. That is
super awesome. How do you normally do it as far as left hand heim on the left
hand side or some guys do the whole everything towards the front of the car
is left hand. If you can imagine with the wheels spinning like forward if you turn
you shouldn’t have to but if you were to turn all the way left the wheel would
catch the rod and spin it that way so you’d want the right hand on the front
because it would be constantly tightening it. Everybody has their own
way of doing that. So how are we doing this one? Put that one together as though
there was no drag link to stop the tire from turning right hand towards the
front yeah. Gotcha. Then it would be opposite on the
on the right side. Right correct so left handed would be forward no right no right no
correct no not correct yes don’t be confused. And why are there two holes in
the pitman arm does that change the steering ratio? Yeah yeah so you can go
to if you’re at a short track where you want it to steer real quick you can do
one thing but place like Knoxville where you’re moving along pretty quick you
generally don’t want it that twitchy so you’ll slow it down a little bit. Perfect so are we ready to go in with
the axle? We can go in with the axle. What height do we want the blocks? So with
this being a raised rail on the left side three inch tall on the right sides
at four inch I like to start with all my heims all the way in that way when you
adjust it out you know you’ve got as much thread engagement. Ow ow ow ow ow.
Sorry. I felt a little tension there I wasn’t sure what that was. That was the spring rate of of my hand crushing. And we can actually hook up our tethers
now? Yes. So that’s tether holds the kingpin
tether. Right. Did you guys already center the steering box?
Yes so now we just got a square it. You square it before you hook the we can put
the bars in that’s I usually do yeah cause the bars are more just a blocking thing
right okay. I usually just square it that way the
arms aren’t in my way not that they would be. From the motor
plate to the back of the axle forty six and a quarter for this car it’s about
forty five and five eighths right now. I’ll bet you it’s dead-on forty six and
a quarter. So you have to check the frame rail first you can see it’s actually at
zero we lucked out. If we set it on the steering arm on the flat side 11.2 we’re
in that anywhere from 8 to 12 range and what I think we’re shooting for 10 so we’re gonna roll the top forward a little bit. So we’ll turn this one a little bit and
then turn this on the other direction a little bit and that’ll keep the axle
square in the car. 46 and a quarter okay and we’ll just check this one more time
10.10 that’s pretty good. 13 and 13/16 that’s fourteen and a half
eleven sixteenths on the left so we can actually go out a hair. That should be plenty. Alright you check it second pair eyes. So you’re setting it up the left is out an
inch rather than the right. I get about 14 and 3/4 on this side and thirteen and
a half on that side it’s like a scotch yeah I don’t think much. So we can tighten
those down and then we can set our toe. Alright 59 and 3/16. So yeah there’s
different ways you can do it but as long as you measure off the same point on the
front in the rear. Okay fifty nine and an eight fifty nine and an eight we’re
pretty much straight up. I know guys that run them straight up I’d prefer just a little
out. Yes that should be it should be a hair out right there. Yeah so if this
should be just a tick under fifty nine eight.
Yeah it’s probably about fifty nine and ninety thousand or so. Okay sweet. Bars?
Yeah bars and arms. Bars and arms I got the arms. Did you get that Andy? Yeah that stuck to the card. How come I’m always the one playing in the grease? There you go.
You usually grease the whole bar some guys do that so if it drags on the inside I I
generally don’t grease it but I keep an eye on them when I pull them out to see if
they’re dragging yeah they got a scuff on it you know the tubes bent or the bars
bent one of the other. I always just do the surface in a little past. There we go.
And then how much space do you leave between your your arms and your stops
and the tube so that the bar can shrink? I just eyeball it about a sixteenth or so.
Same thing here. And that’s just to help when when your bars twist they’ll draw
together so if you already have them tight up there it’s gonna create kind of
a bind so it won’t be as free as you need it to be so you want to give it a
little room to twist and and tighten up. So with the tube with the rack spacing
the longer arm has to go to the left front it’s got to go further. Do you put
anything grease or anything between the arm and the axle? I do I’ll put a little
bit of grease where it rides yeah just kind of prevent wear you know with the
aluminum is steel. They used to old school they had two tabs with a bolt
that went through it and a roller the axle. How long ago was that? Alright I’m
old. 30 30. If that pinch bolt were to come loose these caps keep the arms
from like falling off the torsion bar. A lot of times what happens is it will fall off
getting into a corner when you wing over and it’ll fall off and you’ll make it
all the way through the corner and you don’t realize it and when the car starts
to level off coming off the corner there’s nothing there and the thing the
frame just goes down and usually it snaps you into the wall real hard. We’re
just gonna move this tether inside the shock mount and the radius rod so that
it doesn’t get tangled up in the torsion bar. It’s just as easy as that.
Looks like a car kind of. Hey it’s getting there. Boy we could put wheels on
it I could put wheels on and it would actually really look like a car yeah
they’d get in our way though yeah and we got steering so we could push you around
the parking lot if you’d like. Anything else Tom? I think we’re good. you

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