2013-2014 Mustang GT Borla Stinger S-Type Axle-Back Exhaust Sound Clip & Review

2013-2014 Mustang GT Borla Stinger S-Type Axle-Back Exhaust Sound Clip & Review

Hey guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com. And today we’re taking a closer look at and
installing the Borla Stinger S-Type Axle-Back Exhaust available for the 2013 and ’14 Mustang
GT. Now if you’re the owner of that late S197
5.0, you might be in the market for an exhaust change, something to give you a more aggressive,
noticeable sound with a big upgrade in appearance and quality of construction. Now, if you’re looking for that, you might
not be in the market for a full cat-back, something to break the bank. You might be looking to stay on a tighter
budget. This axle-back here from Borla is definitely
gonna do the trick. Now, as you heard from our sound clips, I’m
gonna give this one three out of five on our loudness meter when it comes to the axle-backs. Three out of five being it’s pretty aggressive
as you heard. There’s not a ton of drone inside the cabin
but it’s definitely gonna give you a big growl, especially, at wide-open throttle. At idle, this thing is pretty tame. It’s not a whole lot going on as far as volume
at idle but once you start getting on the throttle at the low rpms, you get a real deep
sound. Wide-open throttle at the highway speed isn’t
gonna have a lot of noise inside. That’s gonna be a good selling point for the
guys who wanna be able to hold the conversation in the car, listen to the radio without that
big exhaust drone going on. So, three out of five on the loudness meter
is one of my favorites to be at. Now axle-backs here are just going exactly
what it sounds like, from the axle back. It’s really just your muffler and tip and
with this one you’re getting a four and a half-inch polished stainless steel tip. A lot bigger than your factory one. A lot wider, chrome polish which I think looks
really good. It just stands out really well. It’s got the Borla name on top as well. The muffler and everything else included,
304 stainless steel, highest-quality on the market but we’ll get more in detail about
that a little bit later on looking at it in comparison to the factory. As far as saving money is concerned, this
one comes in right around to the $800 mark which is noticeably lower than a full cat-back. So if you’re looking to make noise without
spending all the money on a cat-back, great way to go here because this is one of the
more premium options out there. Now if you’re looking to save a little bit
more money, you can check out some of the other options out there but you might not
be picking up 304 stainless with it so it’s really a give and take. If you’re looking for the best quality axle-back
Borla is known to be one of them. Install is gonna get two out of three wrenches
on our difficulty meter. Simple hand tools will do the trick. It’s a little bit more involved than a cold
air intake but anybody can tackle it in the driveway at home. Now I will say in some cases your factory
clamp that you’ll be reusing is going to be welded on to a little tab on your muffler
pipe. Now, that’s not gonna be every case but if
it is your case, what you’ll need to do is either cut it off with some really high quality
snips or grab a cutting tool and zip that thing right off. Either way it’s extremely easy to do. It’s about this much of metal you gotta cut
off. So, at the end of the day, if you have the
proper tools on hand, you can get it done. I’m gonna take you through every step of the
process. What do you say we just get started? Tools used in this install include an impact
gun, extension, quarter-inch ratchet, 13-millimeter deep quarter-inch socket, 13-millimeter deep
3/8 socket and a 13-millimeter swivel socket is recommended, PB B’laster or WD-40 is recommended
as well as a hanger removal tool. First up here guys, grab a 13-millimeter socket. You’re gonna loosen up the ball joint clamp
right here connecting your axle-back to the over axle pipes. Grab a hanger removal tool and you’re gonna
pop out the factory hanger from the isolator just next to your tip. At this point you can try to slide your axle-back
out of position with the clamp loosened and your hanger out of position but you may run
into the sway bar. Some models may be able to squeeze it out. On ours, it’s a little tight. So what we’re gonna do is actually remove
this hanger bracket on the back end of your axle-back. There’s one bolt underneath and one on the
side there. So I’m gonna to use a 13-millimeter swivel
socket and just pull our axle-back muffler out of the way to connect this. Now on the frame here, there’s another bolt,
a 13-millimeter right there, holding on that bracket. Now you won’t be able to get an impact gun
in here but we do have our quarter-inch ratchet with a 13 socket. Now I’m gonna work this off and the exhaust
is gonna wanna come down. So you can either try to hold it together
or have a helping hand just to make sure it doesn’t drop on you. All right. Now you can disconnect it and bring it all
down together. Guys, once you have your right side done,
repeat the exact same process on your driver side and then we’ll be good to install. Well, guys, we finally got our factory axle-back
off of our ’14 GT. It’s on the ground here next to our Stinger
S-types. Now I wanna take you through some of the similarities,
mainly the differences and there’s not a whole lot to talk about visually but we will tackle
these couple of components. Now, first thing’s first, you’ll notice that
as far as hangers are concerned, everything is in the same location which means you’re
gonna be retaining your factory brackets, your factory mounting holes, all of that is
very plain and simple. The size of the muffler is pretty notable
here. Now if you look at your factory one in comparison
to the Borla option here, it’s about five inches shorter. Now, as far as the width is concerned, not
a huge difference, maybe a little bit skinnier. Overall definitely is a much more compact
muffler. Now, the inside of this muffler is pretty
much a straight through which basically means it’s going to give you a louder more aggressive
tone, not a whole lot of muffling going on inside the muffler. The factory option, that’s not gonna be the
case. There’s lots of chambers which minimize that
sound, minimize drone, minimize aggression. So upgrading just the axle-back alone with
a straight through muffler like this is gonna make all the world of difference as you heard
from our sound clips. Now the other most notable difference here
is gonna be your tips. Now the factory tip goes straight out as a
slash cut, maybe three inches. It’s really not that big. It’s not that aggressive. It’s pretty boring in fact. Looking at the Borla option, that’s a four
and a half-inch slash cut, polished stainless steel tip which is a lot brighter in comparison,
most night-and-day difference. It’s also a lot more reflective and the sidewalls
here are actually a lot thicker and rolled. So it definitely looks a lot more aggressive
just in the build quality. Now you’ll notice it’s off at a little bit
of an angle which I actually, kinda, like on the car. I think that just gives it a more aggressive
slant. Now, the entire kit, front to back, is a 304
stainless steel with a mandrel bent tubing. Mandrel bent meaning it is a very smooth bend. There’s no kinks, no airflow restrictions. 304 stainless steel meaning it’s top quality. 304 is the highest quality you can get in
the category and 304 is gonna hold up a lot more against, you know, wintry weather elements
like snow, road salt, things like that. We’re used to seeing that here on the East
Coast so having the most high-quality exhaust you can have is definitely gonna stand the
test of time in comparison to your factory mufflers, aluminized and 409 options in the
category as well. So, really good quality which is what we expect
from Borla. So, let’s get this thing installed. We do have to transfer over these brackets
so we’re gonna slide these off. We’re gonna install those on the car and then
we’re gonna slide our hangers into place. Now for this one with that little knob at
the end, you’re gonna grab your hanger removal tool and just pinch that guy off. All right. Now we can get these installed on car. All right. On our passenger side, we’re gonna grab our
passenger side bracket. They are side-specific so you wanna make sure
you’re using the passenger one. Now we’re gonna hold this in position. We’re just gonna lightly thread these bolts
in using our hands. Get it in just, you know, you can go as far
as you can. Sometimes they get a little stuck. Now you’re gonna grab the other one and go
straight underneath. Grab your 13 socket and tighten them down. Now I’m gonna grab our ratchet to do this
one. All right, guys. Now, installing your new muffler, you’re gonna
reuse your factory clamps. Now, in some cases, your factory clamp may
be just tack welded onto a small bracket to your factory one in which case you can either
use some snips to cut it off, you can use a cutting wheel to cut it off. If you need to cut this somehow, you can do
so. Ours are already off so we don’t have to worry
about that but in some cases, you may need to. With that out of the way, what you wanna do
is it’s recommended to use PB B’laster or WD-40 or some lubricant to lube up the factory
isolators just to make it easier to slide in place. Also, when you’re putting your muffler in,
if you’re having a hard time getting the hangers into the isolators, you can just put the muffler
on the floor and bend these brackets or these hangers upward a little bit just to get them
a little bit better of an angle. Now, you just wanna test fit. Really, it’s a trial and error. It’s too tight, try that out. If that works, perfect. That’s what we’re gonna do here. We’ve got ours bent upward a little bit. We’re gonna slide this into place. Now you wanna start on those back hangers. Put one in place followed by the other. Once you have the two back in, you’re gonna
rotate your muffler up to the area where your tips are gonna go. All right. Once you have the tips in place, gonna rotate
this isolator up and connect that to your hanger. Again, way easier when it’s lubricated. You wanna make sure that your muffler inlet
and the over-axle pipe are connected. It’s more of a ball fitment so they’ll hug
just like this. Once you have that perfect fitment, you wanna
grab your factory clamp and you’re gonna set it over the end just like this. Now, you’ll see the clamp is curved so you
wanna make sure that curve is smooth transitioning from one pipe to the other. Grab your 13 socket and tighten this down. All right. Now if you need to make adjustments, you can
do so now. If your tips aren’t aligned properly, you
can loosen this guy up, make adjustments and tighten it back down but then you’re good
to go. Guys, that’s gonna wrap up my review and install
for the Borla Stinger S-Type Axle-Back for the ’13 to ’14 Mustang GT. If you wanna pick your set up, you can do
so right here at americanmuscle.com.

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  1. Shop This Borla Stinger S-Type Axle-Back:
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  2. I love these borla s type !!! I have a v6 with an h pipe and believe me when I say this it sounds amazing worth every penny ! Highly recommend for v6 owners!!! Thanks american muscle!!!!!

  3. Do y'all only do mustang exhaust? And is corsa a good exhaust brand. What about chevy cars I'm just curious. But enjoy the channel.

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