2013-2014 Mustang GT Borla ATAK Axle-Back Exhaust Sound Clip & Review

2013-2014 Mustang GT Borla ATAK Axle-Back Exhaust Sound Clip & Review


Hey guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today we’re taking a closer look at, listening
to and installing our Borla ATAK Axle-Back Exhaust for the ’13 and ’14 GT and the ’13
Boss 302. Now, if you’re the owner of that 5.0 and you’re
looking to beef up the sound of your 5.0 to give it more aggressive tone and a much louder
volume, this is a great way to go without distorting the tone. Now this one in particular, as you heard from
our sound clip is gonna get the full five out of five on a loudness meter, that’s just
how Borla rolls with the ATAK. Now, ATAK or Acoustically-Tuned Applied Kinetics
is made to give you the higher volume without distorting the tone and we’ll talk a little
bit more about that later on comparing it to factory. Know that this guy is gonna have a deep throaty
idle and get a little bit raspier at the top end when you get to wide open throttle. Top end absolutely screams, it’s got a very
loud bark, but it’s not gonna have the most ridiculous drone inside the cabin thanks to
that ATAK technology when you’re on the highway. So, that’s one of the bigger bonuses here
with the ATAK system compared to other five out of five loudness meter exhaust systems. The other thing that’s cool about this is
three or four stainless steel, 2.75-inch mandrel bent tubing, four and a half inch polished
stainless steel slash cut tips, all of which are top quality materials, the best you can
get in the category which is what we expect from Borla. Now, axle-backs, in general, are more affordable
than a full cat-back. So, you should look at this if you’re not
looking to spend the big bucks on a full cat-back for your 5.0, but instead, beef up that aggression
while saving your wallet some of the hurt. Now, this one comes in right around 900 bucks
and the install I’m going to give two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It’s just a little bit more involved than
say a cold air intake, right? You have to take off the brackets right above
your mufflers to get this thing uninstalled. You wanna have very simple hand tools and
know at the end of the day, there’s no cutting, there’s no modifications, no welding, it is
a direct bolt-on. Now, I’m gonna take you guys through every
step of the process starting with getting our factory mufflers out of place. So, what do you say we get started? Tools used in this install include an impact
gun, extension, quarter ratchet, 13-millimeter deep quarter inch socket, 13-millimeter deep
3/8 socket and a 13-millimeter swivel socket is recommended. PB B’laster or WD-40 is recommended as well
as a hanger removal tool. First up here guys, grab a 13-millimeter socket,
you’re gonna loosen up the ball joint clamp right here connecting your axle-back to the
over-axle pipes. Grab a hanger removal tool and you’re gonna
pop out the factory hanger from the isolator just next to your tip. At this point, you can try to slide your axle-back
out of position with the clamp loosened and your hanging out of position. But you may run into the sway bar, some models
might be able to squeeze it out, on ours it’s a little tight. So, what we’re gonna do is actually remove
this hanger bracket on the back end of your axle-back. There’s one bolt underneath and one on the
side there. So, I’m gonna use a 13-millimeter swivel socket
and just pull our axle-back muffler out of the way to connect this. Now, on the frame here, there’s another bolt,
a 13-millimeter right there holding on that bracket. Now, you won’t be able to get an impact gun
in here but we do have our quarter inch ratchet with a 13 socket. Now, I’m gonna work this off and the exhaust
is gonna wanna come down so you can either try to hold it together or have a helping
hand just to make sure it doesn’t drop on you. All right, now you can disconnect it, bring
it all down together. Guys, once you have your right side done,
repeat the exact same process on your driver side and then we’ll be good to install. All right, so we got our factory exhaust off
of our 2014 GT, we’ve got it next to our Borla ATAK Axle-Back and I wanna show you guys some
of the similarities but mainly the big differences between the two kits and really there are
a ton. The factory exhaust as you know guys is really
going to muffle a lot of that sound. It’s bringing down a lot of aggression due
to all of the baffling inside of those mufflers. So, it’s really not the best for guys who
wanna maximize their sound. And the tips coming out the rear, they’re
nice, they’re about 3-inch tips. They’re not anything special and they’re not
really polished too well, so they’re not really standing out and bringing a lot of attention
to the rear. upgrading to the Borla ATAK changes that completely. The mufflers here, the ATAK mufflers are Acoustically-Tuned
Applied Kinetics. That’s the technology built in here, hence
ATAK, which basically means that they’re putting out the maximum amount of volume allowed by
a muffler without distorting that tone. Sometimes when you get the loudest of the
loud you get something with extremely high drones, very high pitches that can get really
overwhelming especially inside of the cabin. The ATAK muffler focuses on giving you that
volume, while also minimizing those higher frequencies to give you a really, really good
quality, crisp sound. That’s why I really go for the Borla ATAK,
I really like them when it comes to five out of five on our loudness meter because they
focus on that really high tech technology. Now, aside from that you’re getting 304 stainless
steel through a 3-inch mandrel bent tubing, mandrel bent being a smooth bend in the manufacturing
of the tubing to make sure there’s no restrictions in that airflow. And 304 basically means it’s the highest quality
muffler, highest quality exhaust material you can get on the market. If you’re located in a wintry weather area,
maybe you see a lot of road salt in those snowy months like we do here on the East Coast,
then you know that that salt can take a toll on the underbody, especially the exhaust materials. 304 stainless is known to be one of the most
durable options in the category. So, Borla is really making premium quality
stuff. Out the rear, you’re seeing a big change in
tips as well. We’re going from those factory 3-inch tips
to four and a half inch slash cut, really thick walled, polished stainless steel tips. Also, 304 stainless so they’re holding up
and that polish on top is more of a chrome. It’s really reflective. It’s got a lot of shine to it, and it’s something
that definitely stands out in comparison to your factory stuff. And guys, that’s gonna make a night and day
difference. It’s also got the Borla name embedded in that
exhaust material on top, not a sticker, it’s not gonna burn off, it’s in there and it looks
really good. The thicker walls give it a more beefy, aggressive
look over something as thin as your factory tip. So, even something like that makes a big difference. Now, I wanna show you guys how this gets installed,
we are gonna have to transfer over those factory brackets. They’re pretty easy, we’re gonna put them
actually on the car first. The reason we leave them on the mufflers is
to make uninstall easy, but putting these in is gonna be a lot easier because the mufflers
are actually a lot smaller, the smaller mufflers make this life a little bit easier. So, let’s install those on our vehicle and
we’re gonna take these off using a hanger removal cool. Now, to get these brackets off, you wanna
grab your hanger removal tool and you’re gonna pop off the one that has this little endpoint. When that guy popped off, the whole thing
will slide right out and you can transfer them over. Do this for both mufflers. All right, start here on our driver side,
what we’re gonna do is take our bracket and they are side specific. So, make sure you’re keeping true to what
it was when it came off the vehicle. Grab those factory 13-millimeter bolts, I’m
gonna thread them in by hand to hold this bracket in place. The driver side has three of them, passenger
has two. So, we’ve got one on the bottom, one here
on this top right corner and then another on the top left corner. All right, and there is this little retaining
pin that is making sure it’s in the exact spot that it needs to be in, so you don’t
have to worry about it being off at all. Once it’s in that spot and the pin is inserted
it’s good to go, tighten it down with a 13 socket. Now, for this last one, I like to use a ratchet
just because it’s in a really tight spot here on the frame. All right. Now, we can grab our muffler and the factory
clamp to tighten this down. So now we can insert a muffler starting at
the hanger above your tip. Using PB B’laster to lube things up and make
life a whole lot easier for you. All right, once this one’s inserted, go to
the back and insert them into the other ones. So, this may be a little tricky but slide
your entire exhaust system backward to fit it into these hangers. Now, you can tighten on your clamp aligning
your muffler. All right guys, once you have your driver
side complete, repeat the exact same process for the other side. That’s gonna wrap up my review, install and
sound clip for the Borla ATAK Axle-Back Exhaust for the ’13, ’14 GT and the ’13 Boss 302. You can get your ATAK right here at americanmuscle.com.

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  1. Shop This Borla ATAK Axle-Back: https://muscle.am/2JAjae0

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  2. Great sound, which is exactly why I purchased the ATAK mufflers for my 13 Mustang GT from American Muscle couple years ago. I also got rid of the resonators and cats and installed long tubes with x pipe. By the way, whats the wheel / tire set up on that Mustang?

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